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Hardtailrider

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  1. Nkosi Sikelel iAfrika!
  2. I can vouch that the EX in 26er form is superb. I've got a 2011 Fuel EX9 and it flies - uphill and downhill. The rear suspension in particular is amazing, with a dual rate control valve (DRCV) RP23 floating shock and ABP. The biggest compliment to Trek's setup is that Patrick Morewood has virtually copied the floating shock arrangement on his PYGAs. He's also put the rear pivot as close as possible to the axle, so probably would have included an ABP arrangement if licensing from Trek weren't an issue. The cheapest EX 29er (EX5) is £1500 in the UK, and the EX9 is £3399. Carbon EXs are a fair bit more so that should give some idea of what to expect over here - R24500 minimum I'd imagine...
  3. Just to throw a spanner in the works... http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/za/en/fox-suspension-32-float-fit-rlc-tapered-forks-2012/rp-prod90169 Yours for R4339 - that's with UK VAT included, delivery to SA should be free
  4. Yup - I normally use the Finish Line dry teflon bike lube but any similar synthetic lube would also work
  5. +1 Also depends on whether you keep on top of basic maintenance. It pays, after every ride, to wipe down the fork stanchions/shock shaft, then apply a little "dry" teflon lube to the edges of the dust-seal lips, cycle the suspension a few times and wipe down again. Prevents the build-up of crud just out of sight below the seal lips that can scratch the stanchions/shaft and, once it gets past the seals, kill the bushings.
  6. Ton's is an excellent bike shop - don't forget that Henco, the owner, is the race director of the Pioneer Trek and involved in Dryland too!!!
  7. Yup - figures - you're in Trek Remedy territory with a 150mm fork. Proper enduro beast - not forgetting the Slash of course...
  8. Hmmm - would be wary of putting a 150mm fork on a 2011 EX5. It's designed to have a 120mm fork - you could be risking a snapped frame along with GBH to yourself. Check what a Trek agent has to say.
  9. Leave it in the "on" position. You only need to switch it to "off" when removing your rear wheel - it then allows the arm to swing freely, allowing the cassette to clear the chain without hassle
  10. +1 on this. You don't even need to take the lowers off the stanchions or release air pressure - just remove the spool then unscrew the top cap and gently pull out the damper. Johan Bornman had a great guide with pictures on the Hub - probably worth doing a search for it.
  11. Go through the instructions here (http://www.sram.com/avid/products/elixir-5-hydraulic-disc-brake) and follow them literally to the letter. There's a vid near the bottom of the page that's also v helpful.
  12. I think the Elixir 5 needs a 2mm Allen key to adjust the reach - it's the higher models that have the little roller thingy
  13. Ran into a similar problem first time I bled Juicy 5s - try dialling the reach adjustment right out; hopefully, the fluid should move freely
  14. Eish - easy on the facepalms guys - not everybody's got the cash to splash on full sus. Just suggesting a cheaper alternative that people have found helps with backpain...
  15. An alternative to buying a full-suspension MTB is to get a hardtail and fit it with a Thudbuster LT seatpost http://www.wiggle.com/cane-creek-thudbuster-lt-seat-post/ http://www.thudbuster.com/products.html
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