SilverCracker

I bought my 12t from Torq zone in Doorn Kloof. cant remember the price but it wast an arm or leg. I have been running my 39T (standard from my 105 group set) up front with a 12T at the back. it isn't the (magic) set as I needed a chain guide to keep the chain tout. haven't looked back since and I keep on pissing on a couple of roadies egos....

Only try this if you are checking out ratios. I did it and every time I stand and put more power it will slip off. My chain was 101% aligned and still it came of. The problem is that those wheels are designed to either climb or drop the chain. I learned that the hard way while testing for gears....

Thanks, I use a standard BMX chain and the fear (previous encounters) of snapping a chain holds a sensitive spot (if you know what I mean) I weigh about 95KG (not even close to over weigh) with no spaghetti type legs. Thanks for the pointing to Rapide, I will check out their inexpensive chains and maybe use them. Will move about the chain line as well to see what gives, or not.....

I did the 947 this past weekend with the single speed. 3h19 across the line. The bike was in perfect shape, but every time I laid down power on a uphill, I heard like "ting ting" coming from the chain or back wheel. So for fear of snapping a chain, I didn't lay down the power on uphills. The question is...... double chains..... I use two of everything next to each other. Chain rings, chain and rear sprocket. There is enough space for it. Any thoughts on this?

Nice frame. I have a Scott Speedster 2 running on 38/14. Didn't know the 46/18 was the magic gear so I had to use an actuator. I can still do a healthy 28 km/h ave alone on hills and 34 km/h ave with a group (70km) of angry looking pissed of roadies running expensive geared up bikes looking down on my SSS...... love this bolt on thing.....

I have the same frame, also converted to a single speedster....... I need to know the following, if the info is available. Crank make and model, as well as the BB. I was told by my LBS that because of the setup (single speed 3 14 gearing) that my BB will now always take strain and be replaced sooner. It has been replaced but now even the new BB is giving me squeaky sounds. Please advise, if possible on the make and model or even what else I can use that will last. thanks

So the Scott is now done and ready for the maiden flight. Running a 39/12 gearing to test the waters......it comes down to a 1 to 3 ratio......bring on the sweat......

in the making..... Scott Speedster 2.....sorting the gearing out now. messed up the "fixed" hanger when the derailleur got caught up in the spokes. So I am very limited to what can be used as a tensioner as the thread got damaged when the derailleur got removed..... Any suggestions?

So reading through some of the older and newer posts, I still have no idea of what ratios to use.... and what route to take in my conversion....let me explain.... 1. I have a drop out frame and DON'T want to use a tensioner unless I really really have to. 2. My rear derailleur is most probably bent (met some spokes) leading to nr 3... 3. My frame doesn't have a separate hanger....the hanger is part of the frame...and that was slightly bent.....it was bent back, couldn't see any cracks, so can be used in nr 4... 4. If I really really need a tensioner, cant I just chop the 105 derailleur shorter and use that as a tensioner? I am on a strict budget but really like this thing you call cycling. And besides, single speedsters get more respect when they chop gears and still kicks ass.... Please help.....

if all else fails, try one + one = one long one

This may already be out ther, but naturaly I cannot find it. Does anybody have the split times for a sub 3 hour race at the 94.7 cycle challange and the amashove clasic race. thanks

I heard that Cancer Clowns is also one to look out for. Check the ride for a purpose page and send a mail to them.

It doesnt matter. As long as it has the pockets and no extra holes in them its fine. If you want some cool cycling shirts, design them yourslef and get a printing company to make them for you. It more expensive that way. If you want to ride for a good cause, ride for Cancer Clowns. check them out on bookface and Google....

cool topic. Im going to that Wolwespruit on sunday. Riding there from Clubview. at about 7AM...Brrrrrrr Anybody wants to join in, PM me so we can meet up.

The self learning idiot tried only the chain, (still keeping in mind all the good tips mentioned above) and the problems still exists... So the chainrings needs replacement... The next question. Do I need to remove the crank in order to remove all the chainrings? The two big ones are removed. (did not try the smaller one yet)

Good day, As you might know, parts wear out, some faster than others, some never... I have some of my parts since 2007. Worn part obviously replaced when they break, others still working fine for me, like the rear and front derailleurs, chain rings, sprockets, discs etc. Chain rings: Damaged on some of the big chaining teeth, but never missed or slipped a gear. The others still look fine. Chain: Stretched, needs replacement anyhow so I went into mud and water with it. Rear deralleur: Replaced wheels, still working fine My problem now is the following: (Problem occurred after the muddy ride) They chain hops on all three chain rings if power is applied. Put a spare chain on (also old but not as stretched as the Fu*&ed chain) and it hops less. Is hopping on the front chain ring due to an overstretched chain? What is the symptoms of a stretched chain? thanks

I am 1.95m. Rode a Silverback Nabraska L for a very long time. Its fine for me. But like the other oke said, compare bike sizes and then decide. A L from one make is not always the same size as the next L manufacturer. The same goes for shoe sizes...

The frame was replaced that many times due to product failure. aka cracked frame. There is a topic about it as well around here somewhere.

Thrown stick, slightly out of place chain thingy will do the same thing...

I am a technical oke. I have broken chains via broken hangers and weak links and s****y workmanship on chain assemblies. So here is how I think.... Most of the strain on any bike chain is at the top. So naturally the chain will break there first. So if the chain broke there, there would not have been a "link" - for the lack of a better word- between the chain ring and rear cogs that would be able to pull the jockey way past the hanger and stuffing the frame in the process. BUT.... Throw a jockey with a stick and it shuts down, you give it some power to turn. NOW there is a link between the chain ring and rear cogs, the jockey will overtake the hanger, breaking it and damaging the frame. Once all this has gone to s**t, the chain will break because it will not be able to turn the wheel. this all can happen in two strokes while standing... Just a thought

Thats sad....it will take a pig one second extra to put an emtpy sachet into his shirt pocket, instantly turning him back into a cyclist....

I speak of personal experience when saying that the service from Silverback is exeptional. They have replaced (from 2007 till now) 3 x Nabraska frames for me. The latest one being replaced by the 2013 Spectra 2. I would rather blame the bike builder for a shitty assembly of the chain. My chain does not get looked after, sometimes running in mud and sand and other stuff, not breaking. so rather blame the bike builder, and repair it at a diffrent shop.

in Hans Strydom (Soloman something nowadays) a while back in peak hour traffic. I was in the yellow lane, correct side of the road and repeatedly had to move onto the gravel for sods who drove in the yellow lane. A guy with a nice white car came from the front. I indicated to him in sign language ..dude, WTF??" He indicated back that I must move out of his way. So I showed him how to forcefully remove his side mirror...he wasn’t pleased with my demonstration...like I care.

I use the Scamral e-toll roads almost every day...sometimes with a bike rack...for free...no bills up to date...they cant see me...

So Silverback sent the new frame to the "shop" to be rebuild. Rebuild went fine until the "shop" guy told me the front deraileur will not fit. I thought WTF. Shimano will not manufacture a deraileur that will only fit on the Nebraska and another specificaly for the Spectra 2. SO I took the bike from the "shop", went home and low and behold. there are "spacers" to make the clamp alittle smaller. Once removed it fit onto the frame like a glove.... SO...use it, dont use it.....anycase, it fits and works....keep in mind the next time you swop a frame....