Jump to content

Manx18

Members
  • Posts

    33
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Public Profile

  • Location
    Cape Town
  1. Both Santa Cruz (Tallboy Carbon) and Spez (SJ FSR) make XXL models. Do invest in a proper bike setup though.
  2. First attempt at posting a picture...could work...or not! Picture taken at Meerendal a week or so ago. Believe it or not, the snake was aparently extracted and slithered away, looking no worse for wear!
  3. Mate of mine had a Spez stumpy where the paint "bubbled" on the frame after 3 months from new. Spez said "We're very sorry. It is a QC issue on our side; here's a new frame for you. Whoops, sorry, no alu frames in your size, will you accept carbon?" Needless to say, he'll be a Spez rider for life.
  4. If the bike you have is fitted "for, but not with" you can. Check if there are mounting lugs on the left fork leg and chainstay.
  5. Try The Shoulder Institute in Plattekloof (Joe de Beer and Assoc.) He's not "too keen to cut"! http://www.shoulderinstitute.co.za/
  6. Male cyclist over 200 lbs/ 90 kg. "Well built "Ladies over 165 lbs/ 75 kg are Athenas. Mainly used in Triathlons with weight classes. http://www.cyclingforums.com/f/234/clydesdales-200lb-90kg-riders
  7. I'm 193cm and 100kg (started cycling at 111kg), so here's my 2 cents worth.... 1. Do buy stong wheels and do have them trued and spokes tightened after a few rides. (MAVIC makes a few models, so to say they break is maybe a sweeping statement). Check the weight limits of what you get with the bike and upgrade/swop if neccessary. 2. Do get measured for saddle fit too, them road bikes eat your a$$! 3. Do fit some gel inserts under the bar tape, them road bars chow your hands too. 4. Agree, Scott 20 or CR1 are good buys and have a more relaxed geometry. Alu frames give a harsher ride than steel or carbon but are a solid way to start. 5. Look at the clasifieds; "Clydesdale" size bikes are notoriously difficult to sell, so there are some good deals to be had if you're patient. 6. Do stick to MTB to meet nice girls....or so I've been told! 7. Don't cycle on the road in PE.
  8. Not a fan of the new range of Spez saddles. Replaced my Spez Avatar with a Henge...reckon an upturned saw is more comfortable and the squared off nose hooks up on baggies like crazy. That said, I have a mate who has similar build and weight to me and he reckons it's the bomb!?
  9. Treat your shoes with Nikwax (available from Cape Union Mart/sport stores) to protect them against water damage.
  10. Can't agree more. European brands tend to be narrower than the equivalent size US offering...somthing about the "last" they use. Just know that my frogfeet don't go into a Sidi...comfy in a Spez. Both being great shoes of course....
  11. The SARS Import Tariffs list bikes at 15% under the General heading, and duty free from EU, SADC and others. In practice this means that if you bring a bike from the UK, and they can provide you (there's a cost) an EU "Certificate of Origin", then it will be duty free. Tariff code 8712.00.10 (the schedule is on SARS's website). You'll still have to pay Customs VAT and Clearing Cost.
  12. Whatever you fit, make sure it's red. Red is faster!
  13. Exactly what you want when you're tangled in the rigging under an upturned boat! Doesn't work well for biltong though, tends to go through your finger as well.
  14. If your LBS "converted" your wheels to tubeless it could mean the rims you have are not proper UST rims. I've had similar burping issues with DT Swiss, never with Mavic UST rims though. 3 bar pressure will certainly not aid traction on the technical stuff!
  15. Whith "blow out" do you mean the tyre "burped" (blew out between rim and bead) or the tyre failed? What rims were/are you using? Pressure sounds OK for your weight, it's what I use on my rear wheel and I'm 101kg. I ride 1.8 in the front.
Settings My Forum Content My Followed Content Forum Settings Ad Messages My Ads My Favourites My Saved Alerts My Pay Deals Help Logout