Daxiet

When I was hunting last year I looked at the RM6, the carbon rear stays were a major concern. I could only suspect that where the Carbon joins to the Aluminium would be a weak link, you pic seems to further the case. If you think of the stresses going through those joints (carrying much of your weight plus the incidentle weight of bumps, dips, jumps), with carbons ability to flex a bit, it just seems unlikely it is a durable solution. I'm glad Raleigh and Linden are working on sorting you out, but I would be hesitant to hop on one of these frames. If this happened on a fast long descent, eg. Breedsnek, you would have been in serious trouble.

Organisation of this event was very dissappointing. Firstly the start, all riders 58 and 29km races started mixed together. This resulted in a slow and frustrating start (squeezing out of the school grounds). Lap 1 was spent trying to force your way through slow/technically unskilled riders. Timing - last year they had split times, this at least ensured that the 58km riders actually completed 2 laps, this year that was considered unnecessary. Hence any rider with a 58km assigned board who felt they couldn't complete a 2nd lap would be scanned in as completed. Obviously riders crossing the finish before the winner came over would be listed as DQ, but anyone coming in after the winner would get a valid time.

I must say I run with self sealing tubes, I clocked 3000kms on my front Specialised self sealing tubes before a large hole brought them down. In those 3000kms I pulled many thorns out and they sealed 100%. Never got let down. After Hill 2 Hill the rear (~1800kms) Specialised tube was unable to seal due to water that had got in between the tyre and the tube. In trying to recover it, the sealant was so good it sealed the nozzle on the tube. Been using the cheaper heavier CST self sealings and they have treated me well considering the cost, however they have gone flat on training rides. Pump them and and they seal unless the hole is too large. All in all I have had to resort to my spare tube only twice - once for the water bound rear tyre and once for a ~7-8mm cut. My old Crossmark tyres have 2 cuts in the sidewalls a piece, I know tubeless sidewalls are thicker than these, however such cuts would have required a gator patch or for me to insert a tube had I been on Tubeless. Hence I have yet to find a convincing reason (apparently weight is much of a muchness, only running at lower pressures has come up as a possible plus) to fork out for a tubeless conversion and tubeless tyres. My Crossmarks set me back R200/tyre a lot cheaper than the UST versions. Plus R85/specialised tube = R285/wheel. Don't get me wrong I'm not trashing tubeless, just saying I too would like to hear a major advantage so that I can justify the upgrade. Till then my trust in self sealing tubes and standard tyres hinders me from making the jump. Daxiet2009-01-26 01:45:50

I'm in the similar boat, should have been off at 5:55 this morning, but have come down with some cold like thing (over due for a cold, been about 5 months of perfect health). Road a MTB race yesterday and realised my health was a bit off and today I am paying for the sins of yesterday. But you're definetly in a worse boat, to travel all that distance and not to be able to race.

It is safe to say it is always coming from the direction into which you are riding, turn around and it turns around. I thought it may just a personal issue the wind and I seem to have, but based on these posts it seems to be a law. Daxiet2009-01-23 03:30:50

Fear not Zatek, you won't be last in VA, I think I will claim that spot as my own. I am a MTB rider, did the 94.7 on my DS with slicks. So far my only road race and I too have found myself in a group that makes absolutely no sense. At least I will be on a road bike for this race. Look one plus about starting in VA is you won't be exposed to the heat of the day, even if you do fall back and get passed by the next 20 groups. No one is going to scope out page 50 of the Winning Time results.

Considering the query is vague, I suspect the only derailleur that could possibly "bang" would be the rear one. There is a screw on the back of the derailleur on the where the DR is able to swing forward or back. By tightening this screw you increase the tension on the spring that forces the DR back. Perhaps it is too loose, or perhaps your chain is indeed too long, which could only have happened had you change to a short cage rear DR from a Long Cage.

Make the adjustment mentioned earlier to release the tension on the spring of each pedal, that is the best advice. Initially getting your foot of the pedal quickly under pressure will be difficult, but as the cleats and pedals wear in a bit it will be 100%, takes only a couple rides to wear in. I don't think you will avoid falling (so embrace it). Forgetting you have cleats is probably your biggest risk at first, you come to a hault want to put your foot down, panic and fall. On another note excellent choice of pedal, Shimano's aren't the lightest, but they are strong and user friendly, don't like mud too much.

On topic, I regularly strip down my rear suspension to clean off all dirt and then apply a tiny portion of lube to each surface that may encounter friction. I know when I first took it apart there seemed to be no sign of lube, just teflon like washers. However to avoid expensive replacements on the suspension I have stuck to adding a bit of lube. That said in tonights scheduled service I will be very sparing on the amount of lube, too much and it only attracts dirt and becomes more like a rubbing compound. Not sure what the LBS would say, but don't care. Don't have much confidence in them.

No expert opinion, but I wouldn't trust those rims anymore. There looks to be a buldge around the eyelet. I would be worried about them giving in. Could this be as the result of someone being a bit over zealous when truing the wheel last? Just a further question to those in the know. Daxiet2009-01-16 01:04:23

I had a look at the XT 775's yesterday in my LBS - been in the shop for ~ 6 months, waiting to be adopted. Very tempting, I think excellent value for money and from the reviews I have seen on the web well worth the buy. Daxiet2009-01-16 00:56:58

10000kms on a single chain is exceedingly high. I would say if you're doing good high kms, you should replace your chain on an MTB at least at the latest 2000kms or to be safe every 6 months. If you leave it longer, generally the chain will be happy, but your cassette and crank will be worn out. When you replace the chain, the next chain will get attacked by the worn crank and cassette, hence the chain wll wear quicker than normal. Yes and if your leg strength has increased you will progressively increase the strain on the chain, crank and cassette. If you haven't yet replaced your Crank and Cassette after 11000kms, do this before putting on a new chain.

Would vote for the 07 RC3000. If I am correct the only real difference is the Tiagra vs. 105 components. I am however confident the 05 RC6000 won't have the external BB nor will it have the gear indicators on the shifters. Probably find it weighs more than the 07 RC3000. Keep in mind things wear on bikes, a bike 2 years older would have been exposed for longer to the elements, hence rust (cables, crank, hubs). The teeth on the crank and cassette could be more worn, again this really depends on kms and intensity of use. Age however is measurable whereas millage is in most cases unknown. Furthermore there would have been advancements in the components so the chances are 2007 Tiagra was the 2006 105's. Very important check the wheels, make sure they are true, rather ask the seller to get them trued if they look off before you buy. Damaged rims are a big disappointment.

I currently have Juicy 3.5's, compared to Deore I prefer the Deore (plus on paper Deore is lighter, not sure how factual this is). I have had a couple issues with my rear brake which probably has made me anti-Avid for life. When CRC get stock I will be switching to XT.

I don't think the cost to perceived benefit is worth it. From what I have seen in other forums/reviews they are able to be fractionally lighter, they do (the balls) wear less than steel, they potentially provide a smidgen less friction, not enough for us mortals to detect, apparently are harder than steel.

I almost always go out Solo on Road and MTB, enjoy the time to just think. MTB'ing definetly exposes you more to possible attacks, mainly due to the isolation factor. I must say I very rarely feel unsafe, but then again perhaps this part of the world is more peaceful. My wife however loves MTB'ing, but only gets to do this when I am available to ride with her. Having young kids means someones got to baby sit for these occurences to occur. Attacks really make life difficult and unpleasant. I think if she had the freedom to cycle when and where she pleased she would drop me in a race. A real pitty. Daxiet2009-01-08 05:48:57

Wow you've missed the plot TNT1 (by mercy I mean idiots in huge vehicles don't see you or don't want to see you and you take the brunt of it), as mentioned it is all good and well to try excersise vengance on someone who squashed your cycle buddy or a fellow motorcyclist but that won't undo the damage the incident caused. You're missing the plot, I am not advocating squashing motorcyclists or cyclists, I am advocating changing the perception of cyclists. But I have said enough and to those who can see the logic great to those who can't continue on your merry way. Daxiet2009-01-08 02:56:40

See this thread hit a nerve, excellent. I take it this may have hit a little close to home. Oh by the way by no means do I say that motorists are the picture of perfection, but they won't die when they hit us. As a cyclist or motorbike rider it is accepted that you are at the mercy of other road users. That is why as one of these individuals you should be alert and try your best to minimise the risk of being a victim. But sure if you think someone going to court to prosecute the guy who squashed you possibly illegally will bring you back to life, well great. Daxiet2009-01-08 02:41:37

Spot on 40Something If such a thread upsets you, then the old saying: "If the shoe fits wear it" applies. Alas threads like this I suspect will be ignored by those who know they are in the wrong or they will simply take offence. However until cyclist take a bit of responsiblilty on the roads I think such "bitching sessions" need to continue. The roads were built originally for vehicles and the yellow lane is not a cycle lane. We simply make use of it and hope that if we behave we won't be squashed. However until cycling cleans up its act there will be road rage and in many cases the curtious cyclists will pay for the sins of the arrogant/ignorant. Daxiet2009-01-08 02:25:05

Got agree there are plenty arrogant/ignorant cyclists out on the roads today. The problem is it creates a stigma or perception about cyclists as a whole. I think this leads to drivers coming as close a physically possible to you when you're hugging the curb, they're just ticked off with cyclist as a whole and want to vent their frustration on any unsuspecting cyclist. I must say I sometimes have the urge to squash cyclists because of their arrogance or plain ignorance (for the greater good of cycling). Love it when 2 or 3 riders ride next to each other in peak traffic with the 2nd or 3rd rider basically on or over the yellow line. Do people not grasp that a car will win that fight? This is big on Hendrik Potgieter and in some case I see it on the N4 in Rustenburg (120kph speed limit and these idiots act oblivious, furthermore illegal to be on a Highway, but why not). Bottomline we need to behave and be curtious as a whole (drop the attitude and accept we are at the mercy of bigger vehicles), this will go a long way to making road use safer for cyclists.

It was me!

I think on MTB expect perhaps Smalls the std. is 175mm, the measurement normally is located just above or below the pedal shaft on the inside of the crank (Shimano at least).

Yes what is with this green grease practice, I recently saw a bike freshly serviced by Westrand Cycles. The outside of the internal BB around the crank had been nicely greased with this light greenish grease, the same on the axles of each hub. This same service called for chain and cassette replacement. We needed to replace a broken spoke and to get the spoke out we had to remove the cassette, oddly we had no need to use the required tools because the lock nut was lose enough to do by hand. What a quality service! As for the grease I think it is to make the unknowing customer think: "Ah there is grease oozing out, they must have removed it and lubed it!"

11-34 is good for starting out or perhaps mixing with the Double Chain ring option some MTB'ers are going for. If however you have a decent level of cycle fitness the 11-32 is the right cassette to have, the 34 tooth granny gear selection is not worth the speed you'll get, as Fulmenicius said you can push faster. I must say when starting out I pondered switching over to the 11-34 tooth option on almost every super steep climb. Now I like my 32 tooth and tend to use it and the small chainring very infrequently.