Daxiet

What is more is that the shock is on 16 months old! Thanks for the info, I have been planning to upgrade to a Fox, this however I think has settled it (other factor, a previous post with many Fox riders saying the oil leak comes standard on the Foxes - sounds like a Land rover Defender statement), RockShox SID it will be. R3100 is a hefty bill to be saddled with, did they replace 1/3 of the Fork during the service? Daxiet2009-01-07 07:05:26

I fully agree with doing your own research before venturing off to shop. Some places have knowledgable people in the shop, however there are plenty places filling their sales team with cheap labour. This therefore requires some homework on your part to ensure you can identify the knowledge level of the sales assistant. The reason I will pay normal LBS prices is because I expect a level of expertise/competance both in the front office (sales) and back offlice (workshop). Should I find that I don't get the expect quality I will find another shop to frequent.

I had never heard of Total Cycling, been to the site and it looks very promising. Alas they don't have a wide selection of Suspension Forks. For the rest however their pricing is excellent, on the items I am keen to acquire they are better than CRC. The flat rate shipping looks excellent as well, considering that option has EMS tracking. From what I have read CRC's Free Shipping or cheap option has tracking only to the point it leaves the UK (is this correct?). Any drawbacks on Total Cycling that I need to know? Daxiet2009-01-07 03:07:46

I suspect this is their new DH bike, great seat position, this is going to be a winner. Pitty though it will cost an arm and a leg with the current Raleigh pricing

My experience with Bruce Reyneke when looking to acquire a new MTB was not great. One thing I hate most is arrogance and the little helper that came to assist me oozed it. I also got the feeling their prices where a little on the high side, perhaps the name entitles a little levy on recommended retail. My hope is that these stores perhaps may stumble across such complaints and make a point of improving their service delivery more so than simply rubbing their names in the dirt. Considering you travel between PTA and JHB, I would suggest if you need LBS intervention try Grant Cycles, it is important to try standerdise on a shop so as to build a relationship (as mentioned in an earlier post). I visit there a lot because I have meetings in Centurion every Tuesday, thus affording me a break from the monopoly I have here in Rusteburg.

Initially the only reason I used a helmet during training was to train in the conditions I would be in under race conditions. Hence not being use to wearing a helmet would be very uncomfortable in a race. Further to this when riding around Muldersdrift other cyclist would take extreme offence to me being willing to crack my pip open. On this note I say mind your own business, if someone wants to pop their pip on the tar, a car or similar let them be. Why not rip the cigarette out of the smokers mouth, its's the same concept. None the less after being a constant pip protected rider I left my helmet in JHB last weekend. Thus I went out on my usual off road course at my pips mercy. Strange to say I never felt nearly as confident flying down steep rocky hills as I do with my precious little pip covering. But the fact remains unless you are going to pull over cars with passengers not wearing seat belt, attack the smoker, rub suntan lotion on the beach dwellerrs, etc mind your own business when passing a cyclist without a helmet. Daxiet2009-01-07 00:40:15

Why not name the shops in question, poor service should not be honoured with silence. We understand that sometimes people slip up, but if they don't at least make an effort to restore your happiness they should be named and shamed. I have the same issue here I have a only one shop to choose from, their techinical ability is not great and as such I have bought as many tools as possible to complete my own services, plenty how to's on the web, some with video clips. After a recent poor experience with having my MTB wheels trued, I have acquired a cheapish truing stand, yet another trade being learnt. DIY = controlling your destiny and possibly saving plenty cash and prevent unnecessary expense by having the LBS tell you certain parts need replacement when they don't. So far I will give Grant Cycles a thumbs up on Customer Service, friendly/helpful bunch of guys. I have not however had any services done by them, so I can't comment on that. Linden Cycles also pretty friendly/helpful, but a tad too busy for my liking. Pricing at these 2 shops is also very resonable. Daxiet2009-01-07 00:29:41

The lead time on service is what worries me, however there are some shops that do in house services, perhaps phone around to see if you can find such a shop. I wouldn't be able to wait 2 weeks.

Alas while wathcing the oil prices plummit, they seem to have a direct relation on the economic state of the world. Since the prices dropped so have the markets, so while we pay less for fuel, many people are being retrenched. Hence as sad as it sounds I long for higher oil prices which will hail stability in the markets. Well at least that is my take on economics, then again I hated the subject.

Many of the questions have been answered in detail under the TechQA section if I remember correctly. What I can confirm is no VAT charged by CRC, but you will pay VAT in SA plus 10% on the 14% VAT (So prices quoted ex. VAT). Funny Value Added Tax, what value did SARS add to the goods you have just bought? No duties on parts, but clothing big time. From the vibe on the web, very reliable, just SA not reliable, eg. Customs/Post Office. There is the Royal Post option I think which is the cheapest, but no tracking once it leaves UK, hence you could lose your toys. Daxiet2009-01-05 04:09:10

I have downloaded the manual for my Rockshox and it is quite comprehensive, however they are expensive items (the fork) so be cautious. I'm almost at the point where mine is due for a service, haven't yet decided if I will be doing it or if I will be "forking" out the cash to have it done.

If the online store prices don't reflect the same 25-35% increase in pricing the I can only assume our local importers are doing us an injustice. So far I am convinced Probike with the pricing of Raleigh and Scott bikes as highlighted late last year are trying their luck, the spec on the Raleigh MTB's has also decreased from 2008 - 2009, so you're paying more for less. And the one groupset theory they highlighted in response only applies to the road bikes, the Raleigh MTB's have the usual mix and match of good parts and cheap less visible cheap parts. But the prices are making this a very costly activity.

I haven't seen any kit for any Rockshox rear shock. I think your only option would be to make a custom solution.

What make/model rear shock do you have. I would tentatively say no on Fox rear shocks. I know DT Swiss have some with that option.

Enough cutting for one day, till next year.

May be unlikely to find a BB shell that is horibly off parallel, but when converting from an internal to external BB, the BB faces generally would have been beautifully painted, hence no guarentee that the faces are parallel. The crank spin test I believe would only present a noticable result if you had a major discrepancy in the faces. The bearings by design would mask small issues, but over time they would fail prematurely. No one ever suggested forking out a couple K on a BB Facing tool, but to drop your frame off at a shop and have them quickly slap their over expensive facing tool on will by a tiny cost to ensure you start on the right footing. Perhaps a waste of time and money, but it may save you in the long run. By the way most people who are pro facing recommend re-facing each time you replace your BB, now that I think is a load of ... however, if you have never had the BB faced (internal BB convert), I give it the thumbs.

To answer the why not wait until it breaks: Where's the fun in that? But even better, why wait for something to fail while out on the trail/road or worse in a race. If converting from the older internal BB to the newer External BB you should get the shell faced to ensure the faces are parallel. Failure to do so may result in premature wear of the previously mentioned not so durable External BB bearings. To my knowledge the External BB is now favoured to all others due to the reduction in weight. Removal of old style BB's with the correct tool is very easy, keep in mind the thread directions that Johan mentioned, so far I have yet to bump into Italian BB's. The External BB is equally easy to install/remove, the Shimano cups seem to all come with Tightening direction printed on the BB cups. Go buy the tools you need and get the job done, just be careful not to cross thread when re-installing. Tighten by hand gently and then attack with the correct tool to tighten.

I have a Giant indoor trainer and only use it to setup my bike/play. You ideally need a special Trainer tyre which will not just simply fall apart due to the friction on the roller. That means removing your normal road tyre slapping on the trainer tyre and doing the reverse when you get some road time. Or you could buy a new rear wheel with cassette that can permanetly house the trainer tyre. The Giant and RavX trainers seem very similar perhaps made by one company and just simply branded. The tension goodie is cute but not very effective, then again perhaps I need to check the cable tension, I just haven't bothered. I'm with Dirtbreath on this one, rahter get a Spinning bike. This will prevent you wearing out a tyre, your crank/cassette/chain, etc. Plus there is a better chance you'll use it. Daxiet2008-12-27 09:27:54

Absolutely classic , who'd believe it all started with the simple question of which brake pads to use. While we at it and the plot is totally lost, go Sharkies!

Did some window shopping on CRC, appears the M775 XT is a Resin pad, the older XT brakes M755 and M756 have Metalic pads. So depends on the vintage of brake caliper. So just check the rotor for warnings before changing compound.

Not that I own XT brakes (wish I did), but just check for any exclusions printed on the rotor. I have seen on a friends set of LX brakes that the rotor has Resin Pads only written on it. Just a further thought, if Metalic pads last longer, then surely more wear is going to be occuring on the rotor. Somethings got to give, if not the pad then it must be the rotor? Daxiet2008-12-25 09:15:22

Wow... I have had a couple different sets of brakes pierce my ears, the first bunch was on a Silverback Dakota with Haynes Stroker's both front and rear used to squeak. I tried sanding the pads, the owner of the canary then got the LBS to swap the pads, then tried a new ROTOR. In the end these little puppies would just squeak. Ok, when well washed they would be quiet until the first dirt road, then they would sing. The other set is a Shimano Deore front brake, it is new and can't help but squeak (clean or dirty), I have not yet sanded them down, which may work but past experience makes me doubtful. This all said I think certain combos equal a perfect harmonic distortion of some sort that means they will always squeak. But yes try sanding the pads. It can also occur when the rotor is bent or not true.

I am also looking to upgrade my MTB wheelset, was pondering Mavic or Shimano (XT XC in particular). I have also considered the more expensive DT range, but where do the good wheelsets start in Mavic and DT. Shimano generally make things easier with their standard MTB naming convention. Deore entry, LX getting better, XT good, XTR you've arrived. Mavic and DT you have nice model numbers that mean little to the average person. JB you never committed to one or the other, you mentioned some big positives on the Shimanos, but then threw a spanner in the works with a lot of issues mentioned there after.

'tis a very odd issue you have. My rotor (185mm Avid) has ~ 2mm clearance from the bracket, the rear 160mm disc has about 3mm clearance, all be it the caliper is a nats chest hair from touching.