bobbejaan

"The trail that Rob had taken us to was named Jungle Fever which seemed appropriate given that a whole troop of baboons decided to take a break, from whatever it is baboons get up to, and chill on one of the long tabletops" Hah hah boons.. The big ones like to chill on the long treetops... some of the smaller ones even like to throw rocks on the trails... in protest at all the meld vragmotors and trekkers... i haven't been on the trailpark myself yet, just passed by it a few times... excellent location on the route of some of the most popular garden route marathon races... and if you're feeling adventurous, there are little trails all the way up/down the passes heading to george or rheenendaal, its a great place to train your climbing skills. dankie, looks like you guys had a good time

no camping... right.

thanks for your thoughts so far people. what about camping?

http://www.the36one.co.za/ what is the word on this event? I haven't done a race of this scale before. pricey race for a solo rider. any tips?

If i was starting a trend it'd be 'Cycling Store Robbery Tours' because exhorbitant retail mark up must one day be avenged! something tells me its not as bad in CT though.

Lets say i'm looking to buy maintainance tools. which shop would have these available?

just passing through, have a few hours to kill and know my way around CT, wasn't there a good one near salt river?

hey, which are the best bicycle shops in Cape Town? passing through Cape Town next week, would be nice to take a look.

cool, so all I need to buy is a shimano cassette remover, bonus.

pawls! right, thanks. pawls are what i'm referring to as 'clips' and you've defined the problem i was trying to explain so we understand each other exactly. the wheel is a DT-swiss something or other, can't remember took the stickers off. more importantly, the hub is a Deore XT FH-M756, so the freewheel body must be something in the fh-m750 -> fh-m760 range. You see, I've had this exact same problem before using another shimano hub/freewheel on an older wheel and back then i replaced the freewheel but used the same cassette i'm using on my current rear wheel and now this problem has recurred causing me to suspect the cassette which is a Sram PG-970 9 speed cassette. but, you know it took a while to rear (no pun intended) its ugly head again because this rear wheel has done like 1500km give or take on this cassette. so did the cassette damage the pawls, or is it just mud?

you lost me there. what are 'pawls' ?

must be dust/mud/water damage then, seeing as the problem only cropped up since that week of rain we had last month, seems one of the clips inside the freehub isn't connecting to the freehub outer body... makes it **** to pedal when you lose half of the power on each stroke.

i'm sure its possible as i've been riding like that for months... its just going pear shaped on me now... R250-350 for a new free hub is one thing but a new casette is another.

nooo, no pics i'm afraid i'd have to take the casette off and then the freehub apart. but it seems only one of the 2 sets of 'clips' inside the freehub is connecting and i'm trying to find out if its caused by the 9speed sram casette i'm using on a deore XT free hub... so i can exact repair / replacement costs...

hi there, bit of a noob question : if a road casette is fastened to a mtb casette body is there a chance the road casette will damage the mtb casette body internals? not immediately, mind you... over time.

micro-millimetre disc rotor tuning ftw. quietly, no longer scaring indigenous birds. say 'aaaaummm' and silence

hey, so theres this 1mm warp on a part of the front disc brake caused by a stripped screw and months of use... making it a musical disc brake rotor. i'm not going to buy a new rotor because of a little warp but how the hell do i get it nice and plat again? a hammer & vice has not helped, i've tried.

leg & foot pain is indicative of reach issues in the seat post and saddle angle/position. i've also had pain in my feet, specifically in my toes and ball of my foot after long rides. i've found that adjusting the height of the seat post can make the foot pain better or worse. try adjusting the height of your seat post up or down in small 5mm increments and test it out in a ride. if your seat post is too high and you may feel lower back pain. adjusting the forward/backward position of the saddle and angle of the saddle can also help, also depending on how you ride, try another saddle type, maybe the saddle shape is bad for you. for your arm pain i suggest checking the top tube length of your bike to make sure your not riding a size too large. if you can't change your bike frame consider a shorter or longer stem to compensate, as a rule your arms should be relaxed and bent slightly at the elbows at all times. also if your handle bar is too wide, wider than your shoulder width consider a narrower handle bar. you can do a google search on fitting a bike or look on youtube for instructions and there are many useful videos i've found. but you should really book with a bike physio/kineticist to get your bike correctly configured for your size, ask at your LBS they should know. hope this helps.

hi, so I ride my mountain bike every day, i use it to commute and for cardio, I do a minimum of 15km to a maximum of 40km on each ride over varying terrain. but I have chronic wrist pain on my left arm around the wrist and the forearm flexor muscles and wrist rotation inwards with fully extended fingers is very painful, also i get numb/buzzing fingers when riding over stones/gravel/hard packed conditions. can anyone give me a few recommendations to alleviate the constant stress/shock on my wrists? since i started on this moutain bike my hands/wrists have become a little effed up, also from falling injuries etc... :/

definately get a smaller frame, i'm 168cm and i'm on an 18inch even with a 60mm stem, after more than a year of riding it i have chronic back pain. its not funny, get a smaller bike.

yep managed to find loads more info after knowing the model type, sent you a PM about the required parts, thanks for your help.

Hey deanbean bonus, thanks for confirming the model. do you have any tips regarding the blue dial knob under the right stanchion? does that actually connect to the damper rods? on mine the screw is removable but the knob itself doesn't fall of, it sticks there.

stanchion diameter is 27 or 28mm. travel is 80mm here teh photo

lol lipstick on a pig miss piggy and robert's definately not my uncle or miss piggy my aunt. really, i promise, she is not my aunt. ok i'm wrong in assuming that seals are standard across multiple brands and given that seal springs are also not and that helps, really... so, do you have 6 to 8 year old manitou-type seals in stock or is that wishful thinking?

ja ok i have outcommented the android comment so the amount of people that may comment may otherwise be unaffected. ();