Andy_P

‘thanks for everyone involvements to make me realize that i need to be better in my admin upkeep’ Have a lot more to learn than that...

The boosters (Shoe, Device and probably Bike as well) typically work out to a +- R100 per month benefit. So the R5k saving over 3 years sounds right and is how I understand it to work as well.

My last Garmin strap lasted only 1 year so I decided to give the Wahoo Tickr a go. The Garmin straps wear and tear (no pun intended) way to easily and quickly in my opinion. Have had the Tickr for about 6 months and works perfectly with my Garmin Edge and Fenix. And Bluetooth works perfectly with laptop and ipad for zwift.

Thanks for the feedback! I'm running non-TL GP5000 at the moment and couldn't be happier with them. I don't put a lot of mileage on my road bike so they do last long which makes spending the money a bit easier. Now to find those valves...

Anyone have experience with the Maxxis High Road Tubless tyres? They're going for R550 on Bike-Addict, Hutchison Fusion 5 also going for R550. GP5000 TL is almost double the price so figure these might be a good option to try out Tubeless. What does one do with tubeless valves if you have a deep section wheel, I haven't seen valves longer than 50mm, valve extenders? I use Joe's Eco sealant for my MTB, according to them it works up to 8 bar so thinking about giving it a try for the road tubeless setup. They're Road sealant is rated up to 9 bar so not sure how much of a difference this will make.

Brand new chainring!

Hit the nail on the head there! PS if you have a 10 you can run a smaller chainring for the same top end and an even better climbing setup

For the 10! Definitely a big plus for me since doing the upgrade. You can always do the budget upgrade at first, using Sunrace and your existing freehub. If you have to replace the cassette at a later stage you can then again choose if you want to spend the money on the freehub and get the 10-51/52 or stick with the existing freehub and Sunrace.

For the 10! Definitely a big plus for me since doing the upgrade. You can always do the budget upgrade at first, using Sunrace and your existing freehub. If you have to replace the cassette at a later stage you can then again choose if you want to spend the money on the freehub and get the 10-51/52 or stick with the existing freehub and Sunrace.

Yes but most likely a XTR chain as well. This is an important point though. I also believe the ratios are better on the Shimano cassettes. On SLX the 2nd biggest gear is a 45 where I think it’s a 42 on the GX cassette, so it gives you a bit better ‘climbing’ gear when you don’t quite need the granny.

That has to be wrong. 32x51 is in fact a better climbing gear gear (easier) than 34x52 and 32x10 a faster gear ratio than 34x11.

Yes the indexing is the same so those are interchangeable. But he’s referring to the cassette/chain combo and the new Shimano hyperglide cassettes working best when used with the shimano chain. I can also attest to this. Other chains work but not as well.

UPDATE: I found that the freehub body had a bit of lateral play due to the drive side endcap that secures it not being fastened properly. I think must have been the cause of the problem? Only hand tightened the cap as I didn't have a cone/flat spanner handy. Not sure how tight these need to be?

Rapide is a great option and value for money. Would be considered a budget option for a lot of folks but that's always relative. About R5k for a complete wheelset, or just over R2k for a front wheel. Otherwise you can just order a Rapide rim but then new spokes and nipples might be the order of the day and with rebuilding cost might end up costing close to a new wheel. Other option is Lyne, which I personally went for, they come in at R6k for a wheelset but not sure if they have something for gravel/CX at the moment. So for your budget, these options only work for replacing the rim or 1 of the wheels. Customer service from both of these companies is excellent!

Thanks for the advice. I've swapped the link around to the correct direction since it last happened. Maybe that solves the problem. I'll double check the pulley orientation tomorrow and give feedback. I assumed the pulley wheels are in the correct orientation as the derailleur hasn't been disassembled, but definitely worth a look!

I've swapped the link around to the correct direction since it last happened. Maybe that solves the problem.

Thanks for suggestions, keep them coming

I used the Shimano speed link that came with the chain. I saw yesterday that the link was in installed in the wrong direction, but I've never really believed that it could make a difference?

Difficult to get a picture of the chain line but this gives an idea.

Looks fine to my untrained I, what do you say? You can actually see how the pulley was scuffed by the chain when it dropped. The chain drops to the inside (hub side) of the guide pulley.

Thanks will start with that. Will take it to my LBS to check that out. I'm just trying to figure out what it might be before taking it to them as it seems like a difficult one to fault find. I did notice some play in the tension pulley bearing, but didn't figure it would be an issue! You think it could be that? Pretty disappointing life on the pulley in that case, less than 1000km.

I did go from non-boost to boost, but with this installed a new Shimano XT M8100 crankset which I figured would be spot on with a 52mm chainline. The chainline looks pretty good in my opinion, will try post a picture of it later.

Just checked the guide wheel, it does spin freely. M7100 cassette and chain, both with about 800km on them now. Chain has no tight links. The kit was built over from my old Epic to a new frame so I'm pretty sure the hanger is OK, but will probably start with having this checked. Could it be that the chain is too long? Can't imagine that this would cause a problem min the middle of the cassette, but would rather be at one of the extreme ends.

It has been happening with clutch ON, I don't really ever ride with the clutch off so can't say.

Hi Hubbers, Recently installed a M7100 drivetrain on a new Epic frame. A few times now the chain has come off the guide pulley which is a bit of an issue. It happened twice on my last ride, I'm not sure what the exact case is that triggers this but it's usually when chain is about the middle of the cassette. I made sure the chain length was correct when installing the kit and have checked the B-screw setting again. The derailleur hanger is brand new so assuming it's straight. Otherwise, shifting is working perfectly and I've been very happy with the upgrade! Any help or advice would be appreciated, I don't really know where to start with this one...