Andy_P

Terrible news. Events he was part of had gees like no other! RIP

I think you’ll regret going less than 50! 50mm is the do it all profile depth. What’s equally (if not more) important is getting the correct width. 25mm or maybe even 28mm nowadays. Tubeless is also something to consider. I’ve had tubeless ready rims for years but only ran it tubeless for the first time recently so the verdict is still out on how well it works. But by the looks of what’s happening in the pro peloton, it could become the norm in the future as with mtb.

It was my first Atta and I don’t think we could have asked for better conditions. Beast of a course but one of the most beautiful rides! My preparation was very limited so it was not a race but a fight for survival. Absolutely loved it!

This is too good

You make a fair point. When you’ve achieved what he has and you don’t have anything left to prove, the things that motivate you may very well change. Winning might not be the only thing anymore and I also wouldn’t blame him for it.

I don't think I meant that, he was trying and trying on every opportunity until he finally got one on stage 10 I think. Let's hope you're wrong and he entertains us properly for another season or two I don't think he's got the top end to regularly beat top pure sprinters anymore so will have fewer and fewer opportunities. I think they know this and hence the statement a while back that they see classics as his big focus going forward but that he'll still be giving the rest a good go.

You must have missed his Giro stage win at the end of last year, that was pure tenacity.

Thanks for the feedback! I'm running non-TL GP5000 at the moment and couldn't be happier with them. I don't put a lot of mileage on my road bike so they do last long which makes spending the money a bit easier. Now to find those valves...

Anyone have experience with the Maxxis High Road Tubless tyres? They're going for R550 on Bike-Addict, Hutchison Fusion 5 also going for R550. GP5000 TL is almost double the price so figure these might be a good option to try out Tubeless. What does one do with tubeless valves if you have a deep section wheel, I haven't seen valves longer than 50mm, valve extenders? I use Joe's Eco sealant for my MTB, according to them it works up to 8 bar so thinking about giving it a try for the road tubeless setup. They're Road sealant is rated up to 9 bar so not sure how much of a difference this will make.

Hit the nail on the head there! PS if you have a 10 you can run a smaller chainring for the same top end and an even better climbing setup

For the 10! Definitely a big plus for me since doing the upgrade. You can always do the budget upgrade at first, using Sunrace and your existing freehub. If you have to replace the cassette at a later stage you can then again choose if you want to spend the money on the freehub and get the 10-51/52 or stick with the existing freehub and Sunrace.

For the 10! Definitely a big plus for me since doing the upgrade. You can always do the budget upgrade at first, using Sunrace and your existing freehub. If you have to replace the cassette at a later stage you can then again choose if you want to spend the money on the freehub and get the 10-51/52 or stick with the existing freehub and Sunrace.

Yes but most likely a XTR chain as well. This is an important point though. I also believe the ratios are better on the Shimano cassettes. On SLX the 2nd biggest gear is a 45 where I think it’s a 42 on the GX cassette, so it gives you a bit better ‘climbing’ gear when you don’t quite need the granny.

That has to be wrong. 32x51 is in fact a better climbing gear gear (easier) than 34x52 and 32x10 a faster gear ratio than 34x11.

Yes the indexing is the same so those are interchangeable. But he’s referring to the cassette/chain combo and the new Shimano hyperglide cassettes working best when used with the shimano chain. I can also attest to this. Other chains work but not as well.

I believe that with the Rapide kit having a 3mm spacer on each side, the rim effectively stays in the middle of the frame which means you don't have to re-dish the wheel. With that, the spacing of your cassette (chainline) remains non-boost which you have to keep in mind when you select a crankset/chainring. My thinking is that having the boost spacing of the cassette at the rear (achieved by the kits that have a 6mm spacer on the left and re-dishing the wheel) might give a better chainline.

Anyone have any experience with the Rapide boost adapter kit? https://www.rapide.co.za/product/rapide-xba-57-rear-hub-boost-adapter/

Slightly unrelated... My local specialized retailer found a crack on my Specialized Epic in the BB area. 2 weeks after the 5 year warranty period lapsed... I actually found what looked like a crack and took pictures before the warranty had lapsed, but didn’t realise I was so close to the end of my warranty period and didn’t get it checked our right away. Waiting to hear if Specialized will be able to help me out...

Hi Riaan, I recently got my kickr core. It came with thru axle adapters so think it’ll work fine for my mtb. Still have to test fit my mtb on it, will probably get to it this weekend. Let me know if you have any specific questions and I’ll see if I can help.

What sort of temperature readings do you guys get when doing a spindown on a Kickr or Kickr core on the Wahoo app? After riding for approx 30 mins and doing a spindown, I get readings of 40-45 degC. Would be interested to hear what other guys are getting.

Any advice here on whether to go for SRAM Level TL brakes or Shimano SLX?

Anyone know how seeding works if you enter by substitution? Sounds like you get your seeding but not explicitly stated on the website...

How is a 80km flat course an ultra-marathon?