JXV

Eish - sorry Bud. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Scratch on the stanchion makes a channel that allows oil out and dirt in. It will also wear the seal lips over time. If its a shallow scratch there are tricks you can pull like fill it with nail varnish and VERY gently remove the excess with a razor blade and 1000 grit or finer sand paper. Extreme care required to not make things worse if you do this. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

The blue float fluid is a much thicker oil (approx 80 wt) than Gold which is 20wt. Rather stick with the blue stuff Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Tallboy pedal bob is not an issue if you buy a frame with the original oe shock and keep it properly maintained. My LTc came with a Fox Factory CTD shock. Works exactly as it says on the tin if you keep it serviced. Practically locked out in Climb mode but still compliant over harsh bumps. Don't forget it has VPP suspension links . Chain tension caused by pedalling works against suspension movement by tucking the lower link up against the bb. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

According to a few reviews the plus tyres are VERY pressure sensitive. Just 2psi can be the difference between bouncy and too soft. I have yet to try a set. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Registered my LTc but I have to depressure the shock and cycle the suspension on the Hightower to get at the serial number ....what a dumb place to put it. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Lots been said about the size of the jumps in number of teeth between cogs........ What you have to remember is that it is proportional. So a 4 tooth jump from 11t to 15t would be horrendous - it changes the ratio by about 40% but a 4 tooth jump from 32t to 36t only changes the ratio by about 12% So, on the Eagle cassette and other not-quite-as-wide-range cassettes like the Shimano 11-46, the big tooth difference between granny and 2nd gear is not quite as bad as it appears when you actually ride them. In Shimano's case though I think they missed a trick. Their 11-46 XT cassette goes from 37t to 46t, a jump of 9 teeth. The gap is noticeable when you ride it. I ride a 29er with 34 front ring and 11-46 rear. I can climb almost anything I need to ride in that 46 but it is noticeably slow and the only other option is the 37t which can be be a bit tough. Shimano must have had a reason for their choice but the equivalent Sunrace cassette goes from 40t to 46t and I think it might suit me better - or I need to HTFU Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

yes I have and the jumps are bigger when compared to 2x10 or 2x11 in smaller climbing chainring. You have to take the overall gearing of both the chainring and the cassette into account. In the climbing gears, a 2x system gives 4 choices where a 1x system offers 3 over the same span of ratios - see Iwan's table of overall ratios in a previous post. This means the jumps between the lower gears in the 1x system average about 33% larger than in an equivalent 2x system. And I can feel it when climbing. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Eddy Yeah....gearing wise 2x10 is better....more range than all but maybe Eagle and smaller steps so it is easier to get a good speed and rhythm when climbing and also more top end but here are the pros of 1x - lighter by about 400g - new systems offer almost the range of 2x. If you are really fit or ride in less mountainous areas you may not need the full 2x10 / 2x11 range anyway. - no chain drops on my setup in over 2 years - can mount my dropper lever on the left under the bar where the front shifter used to be. ergonomically this is way better than all other options - less cables - 1x is quiet....really quiet - better chainring clearance over logs and stuff. I only have the one bike but if I had an XC bike and a trail bike it would be 2x10/2x11 on the XC and 1x11 on the trail bike. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Drak Descent Underberg....very wet and muddy. Went more sideways than forwards Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

27.5+, not 27.5....big difference! Hightower has clearance for up to 3.0 tyres on 45mm 27.5+ rims but 2.8 plus wheels are preferred. These have almost the same rolling diameter as 29er. If you put normal 27.5 wheels on the average modern 29er you'll likely get a lot of pedal strikes due to lowering the bb by about 20mm with the smaller wheels. Lot of Hightower owners choose 150mm forks so that they have the option to swap between 27.5+ and 29er wheelsets without adjusting fork travel. I agree with you that 10mm difference in fork travel can't be that drastic in terms of handling but given that the bike is long and slack, adding more travel lifts the front in climbs and may make it wander a bit more on steep ascents. Between 140/150 forks and hi/low flip chip positions you can adjust the geo a bit. I get less pedal strikes on Highrower than on the TB LTc but i still wouldn't run the flip chip in low with 27.5+ wheels on..... Some guys are also 'long shocking' their Hightowers to get 150mm rear travel but this voids warranty and maybe also longevity. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

I'm sure loving mine. Interesting comment about it riding high with the RCT shock.....mine rides lowish with a Fox FloatX fitted with the Evol air can. For my weight around 88 - 90kg I have to run about 320psi to get 30%sag (shock limit is 350) and it is still super plush. I would prefer less sag, maybe 25% but this puts the shock pressure close to the limit. I think its not the bike's fault though...maybe Evol aircans are not intended for riders in my weight class. So mine bobs a bit when pedalling in open mode but I use the Med setting a lot on the flats and hills, and Firm mode on tar. At the front I have a 150 Pike. Running 29er wheels with 2.3 rubber. Have not tried a 27.5+ set yet. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Use a large socket....I think a 36mm works ok. press in using palm of hand on socket / driver. The outer lip should sit flush on top of the lowers (no gap). They push in by hand with moderate pressure. Do not hammer them. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Cost all-in from CWC if I may ask? Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Saddles can sag due to the padding getting tired or the 'chassis' can develop cracks that are not visible when the seat is not loaded. After a crash the seat rails can get bent and this may not be visible unless you look carefully. If it suddenly starts hurting you after being ok for a while then replace. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk