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sunchaser

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Posts posted by sunchaser

  1. 22 hours ago, pedal menace said:

    Perhaps an additional factor - not as BIG as safety etc - is the race difficulty. A couple of years ago it was a 92km event with most of the climbing in the first half with a much easier second half. Yesterday was 98km in sweltering heat with some REALLY hard climbs in the second half. In fact you do over 1000m of climbing in the last 45km. Now for many of us - WE LIKE THAT! But for a large set of the general "I ride ONCE a year" group of riders - this is a rather brutal ride. I saw a LOT of riders down on the road with SERIOUS CRAMPS during those last 3 hard climbs. 

    Correct, I agree on this point, for the social rider, the route is way TOO difficult. Not sure the logic behind this if you want to attract more riders. E.g. to get to Randburg from Kyalami, why use Main Rd? That hill is too much, there are many other ways, or from Randburg to Braamfontein, why use Jan Smuts, Zoo Lake, thats a killer. Already by Kyalami before main road, "social riders" where done for the day. I am sure is all logistics about road closures.

     

  2. 3 hours ago, Frosty said:

    I come down from Rifle Range Road to Nasrec Road, and then left on Rand Show road to the first entrance to Nasrec. The cops/marshals at the corner of Nasrec and Rand Show road (Sasol) blocked us from riding along Nasrec (red line), to the finish, which is why we diverted left on Rand Show. We then take the bridge (4) over the railway line to the start batches.
     

    Ok, thanks for headsup, you coming from the exact opposite side of me.

    I will be coming from Main Reef Road (wind my way from Randburg, approx 26km), then into Nasrec Road. 

  3. Correct @ JA-Q001, frame is made for wider tyres!!!

    That's why, I could not understand why my old frame (23mm tyres) had so much space (from crank). All your points 100% match my crank. (extra washer on DS, pulls right up to BB)

    Thanks so much, let see if I can get bolts that's flush with crank, or just check out another crank here. Not that much to spend.

    Thank you.

  4. Thanks for quick response.

    1. The bottom bracket is SRAM GXP (english threaded, bsa), not the new dub ones.

    2. No spacer on the BB.

    There were two washer/spacers on Crank Arm (DS), but I removed it when took off my old frame. Not sure if need to put back, but it looked worn. Also not sure where to get it.

    (bolts on crank which is slightly rubbing). 

     

  5. Hi guys,

    I am building up road bike, and fitted a bottom bracket (threaded). That went very well, seeing this is part I dreaded of the build. However, when I fit in the crank, and completely tighten the crank arm on non-drive side, to make sure there is no play, the inside smaller chain ring(spindle) slightly rubs against the frame.

    I assume I need to put in a spacer? Where do I put it:

    - Bottom bracket?
    - on Crank?

    I used a mallet to make sure the crank is flush with bottom bracket. If I don't do this, there is definitely some play.

    This is SRAM Red crank (10 speed) , still one of the older ones.

    Please help.

  6. 14 hours ago, Chris_ said:

    Nah dude

    Interviewer: So you've basically won the tdf.. Pog - well um, no, not yet really. 

    Interviewer: Are you worried about Vin? Pog - who? Laughs uncomfortably, gives a 'do you know how long 5 mins is' look. 

    Interviewer: You remember the Rog vs Pog TT, do you think it'll happen with Pog vs Vin? Pog - wtf man?! 

    Haha...I also found Pog expression priceless...like wtf have I been doing for last couple of days to cement my lead!

     

  7. https://bike-addict.co.za/collections/titan-road-bike/products/titan-vanquish-team-2021

     

    TITAN VANQUISH TEAM (2021)

    • R 107,99000
    • SAVE R 12,010 (10%)

     

     

    FRAME: CARBON ROAD FRAME WITH 12MM THRU AXLE

    FRONT FORK: CARBON ROAD WITH THRU AXLE
    GROUPSET: SRAM RED ETAP 2 X 12 50/37T
    BRAKES: SRAM RED ETAP AXS HRD WITH 160MM ROTORS
    WHEELS: REYNOLDS CARBON AR58 WHEELSET WITH VITTORIA CORSA 700 X 25C COTTON K 320 TPI GRAPHENE 2.0 PARA F/V TYRES
  8. You're on the right track. Thule's website is pretty helpful with what you need for your car.

     

    But essentially, you need 3 things:

     

    - Some form of clamp to attache to your roof rails

    - A WingBar or other 

    - A Roof Bike Rack

     

    m4nS79c.jpg

     

    WcEM1zC.jpg

     

    If you're willing to take the time, you'll be able to source everything through Gumtree/Facebook Marketplace at a steal. Just find out which Rail Clamps you need, and what length Wingbar you need and scour the classifieds. You're able to buy the correct fittings for the Rail Clamps for your car direct from Thule, so even if you find one that isn't exactly correct, you can still get the correct parts.

     

    As for the towbar vs. roof rack debate. I've always used roof racks as I've never owned a car with a towbar. I probably would switch to a towbar rack if I had a towbar, only because your fuel consumption takes a beating with the bikes on the roof, especially at highway speeds (and I generally carry 3 bikes). With a single road bike it's not as bad.

     

    I've not once had a close encounter with anything overhead, but I am pretty diligent about it though. YMMV.

     

     

    Aah bertusras, you hit the ball out of the park...this is what I am talking about boys!

     

    Thanks for pointing me in right direction AND advice...

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