Ampandy

Sorry pic did not load for some reason. If at first you dont succeed......

My most recent build. Frame is self built out of ally tubing using bianchi fork and a set of wheels from rook. Gearing is 48 x 16 on the freewheel and 17 on fixed gear.

Vertical dropouts converted successfully on two of my old frames. One bianchi that I ride daily. Happy to share the info if you want.

Just out of curiosity, we rode past there today. Some cars parked outside but security says still not open.

And out of curiosity the Scott road frames cracked in a similar way but both top and bottom headset seat cup seats cracked. Have welded quite a few of them.

If you willing to go through the heat treatment process I will be happy to weld up for you. If you not willing to follow the process I will refuse to do the job.

Totally like the ss. Check freehub bearings. If they are pressed in too tight it does cause that problem. Had it before on hope freehub bearings

Still looking for one of those

BUILT NOT BOUGHT. Can anyone guess the frame?

I have an x9 10 speed of it will help

If you running ss then why dont you change to flip flop hub and forget about any issues

Got to love it and as far as the SS goes ITS THE ONLY WAY!!!!! Many happy miles of smiles and no worries. Ps if you want to ditch the cotic let's chat

The top tube should be vented for welding. Take seat post out and check for a hole thorough seat tube to top tube or the same thing from head tube to top tube. Use a thin penetrating liquid like benzine or acetone and fill the top tube. Watch the crack for any leaking.

Yes I am around. Ally is a different animal. Unless you can see beneath the paint do not assume it's NOT a crack. Ally being an age precipitating material means as it ages it gets harder, nice ain't it? What we dont think about is as it gets harder it becomes more prone to cracking because of the vibration it is exposed to and ally DONT like vibration.