Fat Boab

Further to my comment on only a time-penalty if you start ahead of your official start-time, looks like they've firmed up on that too: "A cyclist may not start in a group with a better seeding, but may move down to a slower group without being penalised. Cyclists starting ahead of their official start group will be disqualified. No protest will be entertained in this regard." Part of rule 7. Good luck with the reseeding....

For sure, the system is nowhere near water-tight and relies on trust...afaik.

That's how I understand it. Plus if you're reseeded ahead of I, you can start later - no problem. But if you start earlier than your allocated time, you get penalised (I think last year was a 90 min penalty on Racetec?). I don't know if the marshalls would pull you in the start pens - it seemed chaotic enough last year to not be spotted? I think the organisers take a dim view of people riding on someone else's number. I think it relates to the rider info that's 'attached' to the number (next of kin, medical aid etc) as well as, probably, disclaimer issues? If they catch you, I don't know what the penalty is? Anyone?

Best put me on the undecided list, please. I'll have a chat with myself on this Sunday's run.....

Sounds like you've dug deep into what makes your body tick. I'm not a medical person, so am not trying to diagnose at all; just sharing for info. I also pronate, am prone to ITB, patella tracking issues, my knees used to splay like I was communicating in semaphore. But I found that modifying my squat, heel raise etc gym routine in the following way has helped enormously. Recruit ones hip flexors by squeezing a small ball, or rolled-up towel between your knees when doing most gym exercises. Eg squats, heel raises, relevant core work where your knees are positioned close together. Now my knees track much more vertically, and the tendency to splay is much less when I'm tired consequently I get far less ITB, knee pain etc. But none of that will bring back the paint I rubbed off with my heel

I think Monark was selling some 2nd hand? (Commission!) New, I think Bicicletta have?

A couple of thoughts: 1. Maybe your mobile knee won't like having its foot clamped in more? Not all at once anyway? 2. I had the same problem when I used a very broad-heeled MTB shoe on a roadie (I know, it's a rule breaker....), so bought a narrow-held pair of shoes, still MTB, and problem solved. Don't know how 'extreme' your stays/shoes are though...

As a kid, back in Scotland, a mate of mine had one of these when the rest of us were riding 531, if we were lucky. I still remember the ridicule we heaped on him for having a 'glued' frame. If he still has it, I know who's laughing now A beautiful bike...

I'm new to all this cyclocross/gravel-grinder etc stuff, but this looks kinda fun! http://www.bicycling.co.za/bikes-gear/tested-2016-cannondale-slate/

Similar beast in Nov's Bicycling magazine? Apparently climbing Hans se Kop in the W Cape. Very pretty!

Similar beast in Nov's Bicycling magazine? Apparently climbing Hans se Kop in the W Cape. Very pretty!

Or some other bodily expulsion; voluntary or otherwise....

MTB triple is 9-spd, with a 9-spd triple FD. If I measure the width of my road double-chain rings (outer to outer), it's the same distance as the width from large to mid chain ring (outer to outer) of my triple MTB cranks. But I think you're driving at whether the range of pull, from the STI, would be sufficient through a 9-sp MTD FD to change from large to mid chain wheel. Hmmm, let me ponder further. Many thanks for your help so far.

Font of knowledge!

I'm trying to get my head around compatibility of shifters with derailleurs and cassettes. From what I've read on this thread and on the google-machine, it seems there's scope to mix and match components to an extent? I'd like to use as much as I have available, which is: 2x10 105 STIs, 10-sp 105 RD - short cage, 105 - FD, 105 crankset (53, 39). And a complete 3x9 MTB Deore XT groupset. I'm thinking of cantilever brakes, so the STI's should work for braking. Now for gears and drivetrain. Using the complete 105 drive-train seems over-geared for me (I'm playing with the idea for a gravel tourer and...I have puny legs. I ride 50/34 and 11-28 on my road bike so granny-gearing and I are good friends), so I'd like to utilise some of the 3x9 Deore if possible. From what I've read, 10-sp STIs can shift a 9-sp RD (on a 10-sp cassette ?). Presumably this needs a 10-sp chain (?) but can one use 9-sp chainwheels? And presumably not a 10-sp STI with a 9-sp MTB cassette? If I take the smallest chainwheel off the crankset, leaving the largest 2, and add spacers if necessary, then the 105-Fd or XT-FD and 105 STI will presumably work? If I haven't gone wrong so far, I'm left with: 2x10 105 STI, 9-sp XT RD, 105 or XT FD, 10-sp cassette (11-32 or whatever) - can 9-sp be used? Double chainwheels (can 9-spds be used?) Chain - 9 or 10-sp required? Any suggestions or incorrect assumptions, other compatibility options, or no-nos will be gratefully received!

Great stuff - confirmed what I believed to be the case - many thanks. One last question. Obviously cantilever brakes need cantilever posts, which would push one towards a frame with post capability, but can posts be brazed on? Is this a to-be-avoided bit of extra PT? A common skill?

Grant at Cycletouring has some nice racks - front and rear....http://www.cycletouring.co.za/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=5_11 And Buycycle have the Topeak ones....http://www.buycycle.co.za/en/accessories/on-the-bike/carriers.html

Can't fault the salesman in you!

Hubbers, I've read some, but not all of this thread, and I'm day-dreaming. Mind you, the last time I day-dreamed, I started the quest-for-parts and built a bike a few months later! May I be so bold to pick your brains? Day-dreaming about a low-cost (relatively speaking), tough, general purpose gravel grinder, light tourer, commuter type of thing. I have a cupboard full of parts from 2 MTBs (both 26" with disc and cantilever brakes respectively) and some road bits. I like the idea of a drop-barred aluminium or steel CX-type frame, 105 STIs and whatever wheel/tyre combo makes financial sense. 'Obviously' the choice of frame is dictated by many factors, but it seems to me that wheel size and brake type are critical. So here are my queries: 1. Brakes: Disc brakes - one can't use MTB discs and road levers - wrong pull ratio....Y/N? Road disc brakes (eg BB5 and BB7) can be used with road levers....Y/N? Can cantilever brakes be used with road levers....Y/N? 2. Wheel size: In principle if you're using disc brakes, you can use any wheel which has discs?.....Y/N? (I'm not concerned about wheel width, just the impact of brake type on wheel size). If using cantilever, or arch brakes, wheel size is restricted due to the position of the cantilever post and/or brake bridge on the frame?......Y/N? I know these queries are a bit back-and-white and I fully expect liberal use of the word....depends, so fire away!

You only interested in an old rack, rather than a new one?

A great marketing tool for Swift? Bikes and owner! Talk about profile!! PS Isn't David Kinjah, Chris Froome's original Kenyan mentor?

Ta muchly! Pipe dreams need to start from somewhere......(he tells himself).

R700 cheaper than what price?

May I ask how many Rands we are talking for the Kona frameset? And.....it does look rather sexy!

Ta muchly!