Beerboy

Try Bridge cycles, they used to have a good collection of mavic spokes. Best to take a sample to them.

Clint built a set of pulse rims for me, can highly recommend him and the Lyne rims are bulletproof.

Yes Thanks, Could unfortunately only afford one though, so only the wife gets the upgrade, 🙃

Anyone have one of these lying around, Cable Adjusting nut from Shimano 105/Ultegra/DuraAce 7000/8000/9000 Road Rim Brakes. I bought a set on the hub and one adjuster was missing.

https://www.easybike.co.za/garmin-forerunner-955-black.html two of these?

Have you tried contacting Melkbos Cycles, Maybe they can help get hold of the seller. Thankfully Carbon can be repaired so if it is a crack then i would image 2-3K to repair it.

Who needs the second water bottle, when they've designed a reservoir in the frame!????

https://www.on-lynecomponents.com/collections/the-holy-rail These work very well

i managed to get a fizik saddle back together using hot water, but also put the rails in the freezer for an hour or so.

i might be wrong but i don't think there is any change in geometry between using a 165x38(95mm) rear shock with the adaptor(extension) or running a 184 x 44 (120mm) other than a small amount more sag. so i would think it could only be better to run the 120mm on the rear.

What year is it? i have a 2014 SID World Cup that i converted to 120mm by changing the air shaft. if it has the graduations for the 120mm travel on the sanctions then you definitely can convert it.

The Max has 130mm of rear travel and uses a 190 x 51 shock with the offset bush. i converted the other way from the Max to a 'MiniMax' by downgrading to a 184 x 44 shock and using a 120mm fork.

Almost forgot the Pic!

Anyone using Eagle 12speed Drivetrain on a Stage frame with the +5. i'm having issues setting up my drivetrain, the chain is a bit noisy in the highest gears, there is some interference with the theeth of the next cog, if i backpedal it gets caught and jumps. i found the info below on the woolftooth website https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/pages/boost-chainline-and-chainrings " If you are running 12 speed, the clearances are so small between chain and cassette that you MUST run a boost spaced chainring with a boost spaced bike. If you don't, the chain will "tick" on the next bigger cog when in the smallest 2-3 cogs on the cassette." Does this mean it would be better to run a boost ring upfront, and put the effective chainline at 47mm (52 less the 5mm offset) this would still be 2mm less than a standard boost setup chanline. The effective chailine is currently at 44mm (49mm less the 5) Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks

Any idea of what this Alpina is worth, would like to sell.