David Marshall

We used to have it when you could comment on the classifieds. You wouldn't dare to post a bike add without a couch in the background, let alone making a mistake on your specs or price.

It is not an uncommon problem and usually happens only on the non drive side. This is because of the torque differential between the crank arms. You have a couple of options. You can fit the bb with some paste like epoxy (I use Epidermix 372 - because that is what I have) or else with a gap filling Loctite (like Loctite 638). Neither of these products are cheap as the pack sizes are relatively large. A preferred option is to fit a screw together pressfit bb. Enduro have the full range so you should be able to get from a bike shop. There are other brands (Token, Praxis, Wheels Manufacturing). Also not cheap but they are a once off purchase. The advantage of these is that you can replace the bearings without removing the screw together shell. Back in the day we used to shim loose headset cups with a sliver of aluminium cut from a beer can. It had to be imported beer because the local cans were too thick. Now days any cold drink can will do. You always had some of the shim left protruding which you could remove with a sharp blade. This should work for a bb as well.

I have for the road sti's

Low ball offers do not offend me. In most cases they are a sign of a "legit hubber". You can accept, reject or negotiate further. If you don't know the buyer or seller use Bikehub Pay. I don't have a problem with dealers using the Hub either. Negative feedback usually comes when an item is underpriced to start with and then reappears at the true value under the dealers profile. Would not happen if the original seller had done more research.

The theory of drive train wear (the way I understand it) is not too difficult to comprehend. What does cloud the issue is the wide range of designs available - which leads to very different experiences. Basically what happens is that the chain enters the cassette through the rear derailleur at a low tension (the RD spring tension) and leaves the cassette at a much higher tension (you pushing the pedals). As the chain pins wear the chain effectively becomes longer and wears the front edges of the gear teeth as the chain is pulled through the cassette with increasing tension. The effect of this is widening of the gap between the points of the teeth. This is why when you put a new (shorter) chain on a worn cassette the chain rides on top of the points when entering the cassette (low tension) and then engages with a mighty clunk at some point when the tension increases. Probably only on one or two gears on the cassette will do this. At the other end the chain enters the chainring under high pressure. Within the first couple of teeth the chain is forced into the trough between the teeth and even if it is elongated the wearing effect is much less than on the cassette. This is the reason that chainrings don't need to be changed as often as cassettes. So when do you need new chainrings? On a 1X set up worn teeth will look more hook like than when they were new. The real indicator is when the new chain is very noisy. You may be able to see the chain hooking up on the ring for a moment before dropping off. The start of chain suck. On the 3 X cranks this was usually first noticeable on the middle ring. On 2 X cranks chainring wear is relatively slow. Road 53/39 rings lasted "a lifetime" - not so the cassettes. 50/34 compacts tend to wear the 50 ring while cassette wear is less because people tend to ride 1 X on that ring over the full cassette range. A sure sign that it needs replacement is the occasional unintentional chain drop when riding big - big. No hard and fast rule. Too many variables. Size, materials, service intervals, riding conditions and so on but I think this covers the basics.

I use an ICE ID wristband. You can order online.

A couple of reasons why you only get two types of nipple in this workshop. Silver brass or black brass.

If you are going to stick with 9 speed go for a Sora crank with the offset 4 bolt design. Other speeds may work but with varying degrees of success. If you want to go 10 or 11 speed you will need a complete new groupset. Be advised that if you need to replace any parts apart from the crank on that 9 speed you will need Sora 3500 parts (or equivalent ) and not the newer Sora 3000. Minefield!

Agreed

You are basically between a rock and a hard place. Those rings are 130mm bcd so you are not likely to get a smaller than 39T to fit. Also new rings will cost close to what a new crank will. Your BB is either Octolink or square taper so you will need to change that as well. I would look at a Sora or Claris crank with compact ring set up.

Cobus Buma 082 880 9600

My pet hate of the day - only because I am browsing - Hubbers who don't know the difference between a rim and a wheel (or a fork and a shock).

Not that long ago a groupset included hubs as well.

When you fit a new hanger you should align it in the frame with a proper tool which makes it a more challenging DIY task. The limit screws should not need much adjustment unless you are changing the wheel as well.

Try a soft pencil eraser. It works on tyres.