David Marshall

A couple of reasons why you only get two types of nipple in this workshop. Silver brass or black brass.

If you are going to stick with 9 speed go for a Sora crank with the offset 4 bolt design. Other speeds may work but with varying degrees of success. If you want to go 10 or 11 speed you will need a complete new groupset. Be advised that if you need to replace any parts apart from the crank on that 9 speed you will need Sora 3500 parts (or equivalent ) and not the newer Sora 3000. Minefield!

Agreed

You are basically between a rock and a hard place. Those rings are 130mm bcd so you are not likely to get a smaller than 39T to fit. Also new rings will cost close to what a new crank will. Your BB is either Octolink or square taper so you will need to change that as well. I would look at a Sora or Claris crank with compact ring set up.

Cobus Buma 082 880 9600

My pet hate of the day - only because I am browsing - Hubbers who don't know the difference between a rim and a wheel (or a fork and a shock).

Not that long ago a groupset included hubs as well.

When you fit a new hanger you should align it in the frame with a proper tool which makes it a more challenging DIY task. The limit screws should not need much adjustment unless you are changing the wheel as well.

Try a soft pencil eraser. It works on tyres.

FYI, this information is often hard to find for some reason. Technical guide V3 Provincials 2025.pdf

Sounds like a cable/housing or routing issue but as it is a bicycle it could be something else.

I don't know the bikes so can't comment with any certainty. That said if it is an air fork and specs as per the website then R6000 seems a good price. I wouldn't worry about the BB or hanger. If the fork is looked after it should also last a few years. The tyres are unlikely to be tubeless set up or even tubeless ready (unless stated on the rubber). As for the frame size just make sure that an L is not too big for your son. Good luck.

Those figures are impressive. Well done Nick. I thought I was good at 137 built for the year. Unfortunately my spoke tensioning equipment after 15 years as a pro is showing signs of wear and tear🤕.

Solomon's Woodmead had a charity bin. I haven't used it for a while so check with them if still active.

That should be a quick fix for someone who knows their way around headsets. If it is a sealed bearing type avoid slapping any extra grease onto it. The grease is already inside the assembly where it is needed. Clean the seat and the outside of the bearing and refit. If it is a cup and cone type where the upper race and the balls (usually in a cage) come apart when you loosen it by all means add grease to the lower race and cone after cleaning. A thin "earthworm" of grease where you see the balls have run is enough. Any extra is just a dirt trap. Extra grease will not migrate onto the balls. The noise could also just be that the headset has worked loose. With the bike wheels on the ground you can check this by sitting on the crossbar, engage the front brake and with your hand over the joint between the headtube and headset cap. When you rock the bike forward and back you shouldn't feel any play.