David Marshall

That is compressor is fine for tubeless. You just need sufficient air volume for a short period of time. The problem is that they are so handy for multiple DIY applications that you will soon run out of gas. The minute you start air cleaning, spray painting or using air tools it will be become inadequate. I have a 100L 2HP one in the shop which can do multiple tyres on a tank of air but the limits of 2hp soon becomes apparent when you try applications like using a nail gun.

Depending on when they were built I may have had a hand in assembling them. If they are 32 hole the spokes are warrantied for life🤩. Unfortunately for you the shop has passed on☹️.

If I remember right Kristian House of the Rapha Condor team broke away on stage one and stayed away. The local teams looked at each other for too long and never came close. Backed up by a strong team (including Dan Craven) he just had to mark for the rest of the stages. The organisers idea was to showcase pro cycling to the cities of South Africa but unfortunately the citizens don't give a hoot about cycling, except on stage two where a lot of hooting and SUV pavement hopping took place, leading to the embarrassing conclusion. The tour put immense financial strain on CSA as no major sponsor was found so I doubt if it will be repeated anytime soon. I for one think that racing should be on country roads. Let the competitors have a great experience without the stress of dodgy road users.

https://flip.it/W5naHJ 🙄

Couple of tips from a backyard mechanic on internal cables Use a vacuum cleaner to pull a thread through the frame and pull the cable through with it. You may have to tape closed some of the other holes in the frame to get good suction. To dampen the rattle from internal housing get hold of some NERF darts from a toy shop. R100 for 20. Cut the tips off and thread on. If the cables/hoses are already in place split and tape as Droo suggested.

If I am correct they were imported and sold under the Solis name by the same company that sells RavX parts in South Africa. I had the Solis Nitro and saw a few Magmas in the peloton. They seemed competitive enough. I would guess a little older than 2010. You don't say if you are buying the full bike or just the frame.. R5500 is steep for the frame and if it is built up it would depend on the parts.

Yup, both the E bikes AND Sara Lee😉

That sounds more like a spacer issue than bearings. Either way I am sure Droo can sort it out.

For wheels I would go for Concept Speed. Locally assembled and well supported. I also have no faith in ceramic bearings. Most are hybrid with ceramic balls and steel races, lubed with snake oil. Full ceramic have both races and balls ceramic and are "lubed" with the ceramic dust generated when the bearing runs. The cheaper bicycle ones run rough from day one and go downhill fast. The last upmarket ones we fitted to a rear wheel (5 sealed ceramic bearings) cost R13000. I'd rather a second wheelset..

I wouldn't advise the plumbing pliers, shifting spanner or anything like that. It's a sure way to kink or crack the rim. I line up the rim on a small anvil and use a hammer and plastic rod to flatten the dent out. Best done with two people. One holds the wheel with the brake surface flat on the anvil with the edge of the rim on the edge of the anvil and the other hammers. If the ding goes into the lower part of the bed the best you can hope for is to get it tubeless again. The fault will always be there.

Thats how to stress relieve a wheel.

I would also go for the Giant with the 105. That said neither of those group sets are supported any longer so if you are sure you will upgrade soon you should leave as is. You will sell the Scott easier with the 105 than the Tiagra.

Sounds like a freehub issue. I am guessing that it has a sealed Shimano type freehub that screws onto the hub body. Not too much that you can do apart from replacing it.

The RockShox 600psi is the one to get because some of the shocks call for 500psi (RL, XX430 and some of the Ario shocks). The problem I have with the RockShox pumps is that they do not supply hose replacements. Keep the rubber well clear of oil and grease! Clean hands before using and don't use the pump to reduce air can pressure.

Boomslang? They have a few colour variations.

Before you strip the spring out check that the plastic cable guide that leads the cable to the outside of the shifter and into the housing is not loose or damaged. It shouldn't move when you shift.

They are available and not expensive but be careful as there are different ones for different cranks. As to how necessary they are - I don't think they do too much. I see a lot of bikes with the pins missing or the whole plate damaged or even gone.

Pieter du Preez (Superpiet) is your man if you want to compete. You should be able to reach him on social media but if not I can forward you his details.

I hope all you grandfathers appreciated the support. Apparently my little man was so worried about missing me that he shouted "Go Grandpa" to every passing group from elites down! As it happened I was tailed off from VG at Kyalami and passed them all on my own.

I didn't see the start pens. Anyone know where the start batching will be?

I can fit for you. I think I have a second hand tensioner/spacer kit as well. Based in Kyalami.

Bit of a mine field. I have 18 different headset bearings in stock. Some look identical but are not the same. To be honest I wouldn't trust the average mechanic to pick the right one and the frame manufacturers are not very forthcoming with details either. You need a tool to measure the angles as well as the dimensions.

Most of those 26" forks used between 130 and 150ml in the damper. Pour oil into the into the stanchion, cover the top and cycle the rebound. Extend and then adjust the level so that when you fit damper you cover the foot of the cartridge. Something like in the pic.

I once had a customer bring me parts to build the lightest alloy wheelset around. I can't for the life of me remember the rim brand but it was German and they had built very light 26" rims. Unfortunately they didn't transition to 29" well. It was the only time that I've had a wheel pretzel while building (at around 80 kgf). Needless to say they didn't last well. After that I threw out the workshop scale and all the aluminium nipples. Talking of light I see that Light Bicycle have built a carbon wheelset (road) at 718g. Disc and tubular. Rim is 180g

I'm with Nick here. I am not brand bashing but if you look at the pics of the hand built wheels you don't see straight pull spokes. My advice is that whatever you choose keep it that way!