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Found 12 results

  1. Hi Guys, I have a Sram S80 rear wheel. I need 3x drive side and 3x non-drive side spokes to complete this wheel. I found a new hub for it and would like to build it. They don have to be brand new. Thank you
  2. Hi Everyone I am thinking of building another wheel with a single speed free hub, any suggestions? Kind Regards Pieter
  3. Hello Hubbers I'm looking for some guidance/advice. My rear wheel for some reason suddenly got very sticky (the hub wasn't spinning freely and its really sapping energy) Took the wheel to the LBS and they replaced the bearings. That made things better, but still nowhere near as free spinning as my other wheels (Fulcrums) They are road wheels by the way... Couple of questions: 1.) Any idea why this suddenly happend? It seemed fine when I got them (Its a Bitex road hub on wheels I got new in April and I'm well below the max weight limit) 2.) What are your recommendations for a replacement rear hub? Thinking of just rebuilding the wheel onto a "better" hub 3.) Who is the best wheel builder in JHB? Any advice/recommendations would be very welcome! Thanks and Happy Friday
  4. I have a customer with a Race Face hub from a 2014 Lapierre Zesty AM 427. I think it’s the Aeffect hub, but I’m not 100% sure. The pawls are worn down, and causing some slipping as they engage. So, I’d like to replace the pawls or the whole freehub if necessary. However, I’m having difficulty tracking down the part. All the listed Race Face freehub bodies I can find on various sites are for newer, different hubs. Silverfish in the UK told me that the Easton X5 freehub body would fit. Is there anyone who can confirm whether this is true or not? Or any recommended sources of information to check specs? Here are some images of the hub in question:
  5. Hi folks, planning to convert one of rear road wheels into a disc wheel. Avoiding the hefty price tag that comes with, there are disc cover options I'm exploring. Option 1 is do a full diy, which is quite a bit cheaper (just using a certain grade plastic). Option 2 is getting a custom cut/fit disc cover, like these guys in the US ($100, or R1,200). http://www.wheelbuilder.com/aero-disc-covers.html Does anyone know of any local people that do the above? And what it might cost? Thanks. Brad
  6. Guys, i bought a brand new set of AM Classics vic 30 two months ago from the LBS, all the spokes in the rear wheel were beyond loose after about 400km of riding, the shop said i hit something hard and caused a flat spot(i have hit absolutely nothing and there's no spot) so they trued the wheel for me and 2km in on the ride the wheel went warped and buckled again. Is there a way i can get this sorted?
  7. So, my wife has watched me get addicted to Zwift. She thinks she'd like to join me occasionally for a little ménage a trois in my pain cave... ????????????. I have a spare Cyclops trainer that I'll setup for her with her 27.5 MTB. What wheel must I use to put a dedicated indoor trainer tyre on for her to use? Do I use a standard 10 speed road wheel? Or do I find a spare 27.5 wheel? Is there a IDT tyre for the 27.5 wheel?
  8. I've been getting, on average, two flats per ride. And it sucks... Always the back tyre and (this part I can't quite explain yet) almost always going downhill (probably because I'm not going fast enough on flats!). The back wheel is a Bianchi Reparto Corse and there was, what I can only describe as a "bump" each time the area where the white spokes are, hit the ground. I reckoned the wheel needs truing and that it can somehow be linked to the punctures. Wheel somewhat trued, the flats continued. On my last ride, while changing another flat tyre, I noticed that the rim tape seemed to have moved slightly, exposing a sliver of one of the spoke holes. This is, I'm hoping, the cause of the punctures. I want to buy some rim tape to fix it myself. Are there things to look out for, like a set width or brand that is best? Muchas gracias in advance.
  9. With the Procore double chamber system mountain bike tires can reach completely new levels of grip, control and puncture protection. In the inner chamber there is high pressure, and with 0.8 bar in the outer chamber the tire almost "sticks” to the ground. Both chambers are filled with air through only one valve. Click here to view the article
  10. When washing my bike the other day i noticed that my rear wheel does not sit centrally in my frame. In the area around the BB when looking down on the frame the distance from frame to wheel is +-3mm on left and +- 8mm on the right. What could have caused this? Should i be concerned?
  11. So I got dared into doing the Argus, entered and a month later decided I had better start training. So i bought my self a Silverback Sola 4 (Entry level hard tail). And did the Argus in 5:45. And loved it. My dilemma is that i was given a entry to this years whine2whales ride. And i am not sure that my bike will handle it. (Or i for that matter, but i have to try at least) My 2 big concerns being rims and front shock. The rims being Alex MD21 (I have to true them at least once a month)(My weight is 95kg's) The fork is a Suntour XCR. I was thinking that i could upgrade the rims to say ZTR Arch Ex's, The bike has Shimano Hubs. Advise please
  12. Searched a bit here and google, but can't seem to find an answer. I have been playing around with different pressures to see what works best for me, on the front 1.8 bar feels best, however since dropping from 2 bar a creak has developed on the wheel, like when you squeeze spokes to check tension and they creak. Whats weird is that when I raise the pressure back to 2 bar the creak disappears, drop it to 1.8 bar and its back. Do the spokes need to be tensioned more at lower pressures? Does the pressure in the tyre add to the stiffness of the wheel? Running Kore XCD-SL 29" tubeless ready but with tubes and Continental Race King 2.2 Edit: http://www.kore-usa.com/products/wheel/xcd-sl http://www.conti-online.com/www/bicycle_de_en/themes/mtb/raceking_en.html
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