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Inline cable tension adjusters


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I have no adjuster directly on my FD. (Shimano 105).

 

The inline adjusters just spin on their ferrules - no extension... Man. This is not a smart idea.

 

Is there a way around this..?! Really appreciate some advice!

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What do you mean you have no adjuster directly on the FD. There are two screws, high and low?

 

Next time replace your cables without the stupid inline adjusters, they are useless!

 

Do the adjustments directly on the FD or RD.

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Ya. Not talking about the limit screws but the cable tension adjustment itself.

 

My RD has one adjuster on the cable "shoulder" of its bracket, if you know what I mean.

 

Without the inline, there would be none (apparently...) for the FD! Can't be, surely?

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I have no adjuster directly on my FD. (Shimano 105).

 

The inline adjusters just spin on their ferrules - no extension... Man. This is not a smart idea.

 

Is there a way around this..?! Really appreciate some advice!

 

Sounds like you have completely unthreaded the outer casing adjustment bolt (I assume that is what you are talking about)

 

Go to the shimano site, under tech and download the PDF page for Front Derailleur and SIS adjustment.

 

Happy twiddling!

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Sounds like you have completely unthreaded the outer casing adjustment bolt (I assume that is what you are talking about)

 

Go to the shimano site, under tech and download the PDF page for Front Derailleur and SIS adjustment.

 

Happy twiddling!

 

Hmm. Don't THINK I have... The RD has the same inline thing. That one seems to extend the inner sleeve by a mm or two on twiddling, when it feels like it.

 

The FD one has the inner sleeve as far inside the outer sleeve as the RD ever goes, but it never moves out.

 

Time for a cable removal and inspection of this strange device....

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Use a bit of superglue on one of the ferrules from spinning in the inline adjuster.

 

Noooit China!

 

The ferrule (as we shall call it) is inside the barrel, no? You need to get your cable tension set to its maximum 'by hand' before you begin to use the barrel adjuster. It is just for fine -very fine- tuning, so is done last.

 

Download the PDF - do as Shimano says.

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Noooit China!

 

The ferrule (as we shall call it) is inside the barrel, no? You need to get your cable tension set to its maximum 'by hand' before you begin to use the barrel adjuster. It is just for fine -very fine- tuning, so is done last.

 

Download the PDF - do as Shimano says.

I think we're possibly talking about different things? I'm talking about those adjusters that are installed inline in the cable on bikes that don't have frame-mounted barrel adjusters:

http://www.jagwireusa.com/img/products/lg/CHA035.jpg

They're pretty *** since it relies on friction from the cable housings and ferrules to hold one end in place while the other rotates and unscrews. Invariably, the friction isn't enough and the whole assembly just ends up rotating, rather than one end unscrewing. The glue just makes sure one end doesn't rotate around the housing, while the other does. Just need to make sure you glue the stationary end (black part in my picture).

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I looked for a cable adjuster the other day on my 6700 FD, I didn't see one. I see the 2 limit screws but I want to adjust the cable tension by 1/2 a turn (if there was an adjuster). Any pointers?

 

I am on my way to the Shimano site to see if that helps.

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I looked for a cable adjuster the other day on my 6700 FD, I didn't see one. I see the 2 limit screws but I want to adjust the cable tension by 1/2 a turn (if there was an adjuster). Any pointers?

 

I am on my way to the Shimano site to see if that helps.

 

Do you have any barrel adjusters on your frame? Normally on the downtube?

 

I had these inline adjusters on a previous bike and they sucked big time.

They seemed to adjust themselves due to friction while riding.

Had the cables replaced without them and ... voila .... problem solved!

 

Once setup and tuned properly, Shimano rarely needs adjustment again!

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I looked for a cable adjuster the other day on my 6700 FD, I didn't see one. I see the 2 limit screws but I want to adjust the cable tension by 1/2 a turn (if there was an adjuster). Any pointers?

 

I am on my way to the Shimano site to see if that helps.

 

I will adjust the limit screws as per the instructions and see if that helps. My problem is not in the shifting though, it is the trimming that needs a slight adjustment.

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I will adjust the limit screws as per the instructions and see if that helps. My problem is not in the shifting though, it is the trimming that needs a slight adjustment.

 

If your chain is touching the FD, yes then fiddling with the limit screws should solve your problem, eventually!

(it takes some patients :lol:)

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Once setup and tuned properly, Shimano rarely needs adjustment again!

 

Yupp. My experience until now I agree smile.gif I did the xt's on my mtb like this, and for 600-odd km - properly quick, (and I mean click-change - none of this click-rattle-rattle-rattle-clunk-change), very quiet and everytime a coconut. And I mean every time. Brilliant, never been happier.

 

On my road bike there are no other adjusters for the FD besides the inline.

 

It appears that the intended solution is to get the inline thing to work. Then these 105's had better start playing the game.

 

Although I think I have to lean on my LBS to get this tuned for me, and sort out the adjusters, being a new bike.

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RTFM! Something I didn't know about the shifters: the trimming feature...

 

From the Shimano tech docs (http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/SI_6TH0A/SI-6TH0A-002-ENG_v1_m56577569830702880.pdf)

 

 

"Trimming (noise prevention operation)

If the chain is on the large front chainwheel

and the larger rear sprocket, the chain will

rub in the front derailleur plate, producing a

characteristic noise. When this happens,

press lever b lightly (to the point where it

clicks); this causes the front derailleur to

move slightly towards the smaller chainwheel,

thereby eliminating the noise.

If the chain is on the smallest front chainring

and a smaller rear sprocket, the chain will rub

in the front derailleur plate, producing a

characteristic noise. When this happens,

press lever a lightly (to the point where it

clicks); this causes the front derailleur to

move slightly towards the larger chainring,

thereby eliminating the noise."

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Do you have any barrel adjusters on your frame? Normally on the downtube?

 

I had these inline adjusters on a previous bike and they sucked big time.

They seemed to adjust themselves due to friction while riding.

Had the cables replaced without them and ... voila .... problem solved!

 

Once setup and tuned properly, Shimano rarely needs adjustment again!

 

 

Agree, they do adjust themselves due to friction while riding. also happens to me on RD (Force)

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