Mongoose! Posted April 16, 2011 Posted April 16, 2011 (edited) My almost new tubbie has a puncture (on the running surface) Put in some slime, but hole too big. Slime comes out under pressure (about 7 -8 bar). Someone told me that you can repair it by taking off the "fabric / cotton strip" on the inside that is normally glued to the rim. Then you take off the "rope / cut" that was used to stitched the inside together. And then you are at the latex tube... or something like that... My question. Why can you not use that plugs that is used to repair tubeless tires. that plugs that you insert with a needle.They normally use it to repair car punctures as well. Have someone tried it already?Can it handle the 10 bar pressure? Not keen to take the the hole tubbie apart and sew it again ... I am all new with tubbies ... Why do people use tubbies? Rolling resistance? If I use a clincher tire with a latex tube, the "rolling resistance" and weight should be the same?? Edited April 16, 2011 by Mongoose!
Tankman Posted April 16, 2011 Posted April 16, 2011 That plug wont work, there is a latex tube inside. You will F it up further if you tried plugging it! Removing the fabric and stitching is the only way I know of that you can get inside to get to the tube.Ask your mechanic if he has time to do it for you, it is quite a time consuming job. They use to fix them in the old days, now youll most likely here the words ... sorry bud, buy a new one!
Contaminated Haggis Posted April 16, 2011 Posted April 16, 2011 Was in the same boat with a rather unused tubby. I unstitched near the hole, exposed the tube, patched it and sewed it back up again. The repaired tubby lasted another 6 months but blew about 10km's from the finish at the Campus to Campus last year. I pump my tubbies to 11 bar and use my race bike once a week, so I got a lot of wear out of the tyre. I suppose plugs might work but the margin for error is so much greater, you could damage the tyre and tube further. With tubeless there is only the tyre to worry about, and you dont have the issue of having to align the tyre with the tube. Tubbies are used for their weight saving (I have yet to see a set of clinchers weighing under 1.3Kg's - my tubbies weigh 1.01Kg's), the risk of pinch flats is practically zero, and yes, less rolling resistance. The flip side is if you do puncture during a race or out on a ride the walk home isnt the greatest and the price of a new tubby hurts the pocket. Hope this helps
Mongoose! Posted April 16, 2011 Author Posted April 16, 2011 (edited) Thanks. Just kill the tubbie. There was no stitches, as they melted the joint.... Tried to cut open, but cut trough the tube as well. there was no way to avoid it. Looks like the tube and the outer tire were one. It was a Vittoria Rubino Pro.... May it rest in peace. What do you recommend me to buy? want something affordable with stitches .... Edited April 16, 2011 by Mongoose!
Jennifer Posted April 16, 2011 Posted April 16, 2011 My almost new tubbie has a puncture (on the running surface) Put in some slime, but hole too big. Slime comes out under pressure (about 7 -8 bar). Someone told me that you can repair it by taking off the "fabric / cotton strip" on the inside that is normally glued to the rim. Then you take off the "rope / cut" that was used to stitched the inside together. And then you are at the latex tube... or something like that... My question. Why can you not use that plugs that is used to repair tubeless tires. that plugs that you insert with a needle.They normally use it to repair car punctures as well. Have someone tried it already?Can it handle the 10 bar pressure? Not keen to take the the hole tubbie apart and sew it again ... I am all new with tubbies ... Why do people use tubbies? Rolling resistance? If I use a clincher tire with a latex tube, the "rolling resistance" and weight should be the same?? Just a word of advise for the future. In order to prevent this from happening, it is my suggestion that you use a good sealant. I happen to be the owner of No Flats Tyre Sealant, and I can tell you that my product works in tubbies and under the pressures associated with tubbies.
Tankman Posted April 16, 2011 Posted April 16, 2011 Just a word of advise for the future. In order to prevent this from happening, it is my suggestion that you use a good sealant. I happen to be the owner of No Flats Tyre Sealant, and I can tell you that my product works in tubbies and under the pressures associated with tubbies. Please put your money where your mouth is and prove this by making a video and posting it here. That way you will promote you product and I will even buy some from you if it works. Pump you tubby up to 12 barTake a nail and aim it at the tubby, take a hammer and give it a good whack.BOOOM - ... blowout that no amount of sealant will stop! Now wipe the sealant from your face and post that video!
Mongoose! Posted April 16, 2011 Author Posted April 16, 2011 * t Posted Today, 09:44 PM View PostJennifer, on 16 April 2011 - 09:27 PM, said:Just a word of advise for the future. In order to prevent this from happening, it is my suggestion that you use a good sealant. I happen to be the owner of No Flats Tyre Sealant, and I can tell you that my product works in tubbies and under the pressures associated with tubbies. Please put your money where your mouth is and prove this by making a video and posting it here. That way you will promote you product and I will even buy some from you if it works. Pump you tubby up to 12 barTake a nail and aim it at the tubby, take a hammer and give it a good whack.BOOOM - ... blowout that no amount of sealant will stop! Now wipe the sealant from your face and post that video! Like your way of thinking tankman
Mongoose! Posted April 16, 2011 Author Posted April 16, 2011 (edited) This has the stitches.Looks not like a bad buy or what??300 gramR186 + vat and duties ( ... 15%...)@ Chainreactioncycles. Edited April 17, 2011 by Mongoose!
Hector Posted April 17, 2011 Posted April 17, 2011 Back in the 1970's there was no such thing as the modern day clincher. We all rode Tubbies on our road bikes and got punctures. Tubbies were hard to come by and were expensive if you could buy them, so we repaired the punctures. I remember removing the strip off the inside of the tubbie, cutting the stiching, patching the tube and then restiching the tubbie and gluing back the strip. One hell of a lot of work so maybe you should just buy another tubbie.
Johan Bornman Posted April 17, 2011 Posted April 17, 2011 cut cut cut cut ...., and yes, less rolling resistance. The flip side is if you do puncture during a race or out on a ride the walk home isnt the greatest and the price of a new tubby hurts the pocket. Hope this helps This is a common myth. Clinchers pumped at the same pressure as a tubbie have less rolling resistance. Tubbies can of course be pumped harder, but after 8 bar you have a serious case of diminishing returns and the overall gain from a tubbir a 10 or 11 bar is extremely small compared to a clincher at 8-bar. The only way you can get a tubbie to have less rolling resistance than a clincher is to use hard glue - the old days they used shellack (boiled insect wings). Today, no equivalent exists and everyone uses contact glue. The reason the glue makes a difference is because the tubbie squirms against the rim at the road contact patch. Squirm increses rolling resistance by consuming energy. By contrast, clinchers don't squirm and everything being the same, they have a lower rolling resistance. By everything being the same I mean you should compare apples to apples. A thin tubbie vs a thin clincher. A butyl tube vs a butyl tube, etc.
Minion Posted April 17, 2011 Posted April 17, 2011 (edited) Two days after I bought my first set of tubulars, I hit a pothole and punctured one about 500m before the end of a time trial . With less than 150km on the tyre, there was no way I was going to just chuck it away without trying to repair it. It took a while to get round to doing it, but I did eventually fix it and after another 1,000km of racing, it's still going strong. First figure out where the puncture is and then remove the base tape to expose the seam: Next unpick the seam (unpicking tool in the background) exposing the undercloth. This is there to stop the tube rubbing on the seam: Find the puncture. It turns out mine wasn't where I thought it was, so I had to pull the tube a bit to expose it. In my case, the tube actually split from the impact, rather than punctured. The brownish gunk you see is tried up sealant. As far as I can tell, this tubby uses that same butyl tube that Continental sells for clinchers. Patch the tube. The clothes peg was there to stop the tube retracting back into the casing. Sew up the casing. The tool in the background is called a sewing awl and makes the job a lot easier: Glue the base tape back onto the tyre. I found it easiest to do this while the tyre was actually mounted on the rim. Otherwise, the tape tended to separate as soon as I mounted the tyre. Edit: the whole job took about two hours, but that's mainly because it was the first time I'd done it. Edited April 17, 2011 by Edman
Tankman Posted April 17, 2011 Posted April 17, 2011 Nice step by step post Edman! Now that you are "experienced", can I send you a couple of tubbies please!?Beer & Smarties on offer!
Mongoose! Posted April 17, 2011 Author Posted April 17, 2011 Thanks Edman. Next one I will not f#@k up. What tubbie is recommended? Want a value for money one
Tankman Posted April 17, 2011 Posted April 17, 2011 (edited) Just a word of advise for the future. In order to prevent this from happening, it is my suggestion that you use a good sealant. I happen to be the owner of No Flats Tyre Sealant, and I can tell you that my product works in tubbies and under the pressures associated with tubbies. Thanks Edman, you have just provided us with a perfect example. Jennifer could you please explain to me how your sealant is going to fill a cut like that using laymen's terms or scientific terms. I dont recall sitting in the bunch and hearing tubbies go "pssssssssst listen here, i am going flat and letting some air out now, ok?". Nope they normally go with a "BANG", "BOOOM", "KA-PHOW" or "SWOOOSH" when cut and before you can look down, you are already riding the rim with no air in the tubby. Under such high pressure I dont recall them bombing out in any other way ... but I may be wrong and would still like to see that video that proves me wrong. If you said: ..and I can tell you that my product works in tubbies tubeless and under the pressures associated with tubbies. tubeless tires. I may have believed you. Edited April 17, 2011 by Tankman
Mongoose! Posted April 17, 2011 Author Posted April 17, 2011 Hallo Jennifer ? are you still with us? B)
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