patches Posted May 30, 2011 Posted May 30, 2011 I don't think so. As I understand it anodizing is like a stain, it adds nothing to the protection of an object, it's purely cosmetic, though according to wiki, anodized alu is stronger than un-anodized alu. My climbing equipment is anodized and the finish didn't last long at all, loads of scratches showing through. If you're happy to anodize, then you should rather powdercoat, it's the strongest paint finish available. And as for the worm holes, I've had 4 frames powder coated so far, 2 steel and 2 alu and I haven't had that problem? Sounds like maybe the prep wasn't as good as it could've been. Last frames cost me R120 to powdercoat each, and R60 to blast. does the powdercoat only give a matt finish... or can it be done gloss too? Also, did you bead blast or sand blast? I've heard that neither are that good for your frame but bead is less harsh than sand
Bos Posted May 30, 2011 Posted May 30, 2011 You can just add a dash of colour tint to the clear lacquer. But you will only have one shot of painting it. Say you use 10% tint and you missed a spot. If you go over it and the surrounding area gets a second coat, it will be darker then then rest. It's like when you stain wood. Nice, Thats kind of what I thought..Let it be! I think Im having pancakes & whisky while tstripping my frame tonight
EigerSA Posted May 30, 2011 Posted May 30, 2011 does the powdercoat only give a matt finish... or can it be done gloss too? Also, did you bead blast or sand blast? I've heard that neither are that good for your frame but bead is less harsh than sand When you send it in, just ask for a gloss or matt finish. I did find that the final finish was little too "thick" (orange-peel) looking for me so I sanded it back with 1500g and soapy water and then polished out with burnishing compound and then polish, left me with a finish that has too be seen to be believed! First frame I had sandblasted, wasn't impressed as I did ask the guy to bead blast it which he ignored, but after powder coating looked fine. If your frame is alu then just make sure the blaster knows you want it bead blasted.
patches Posted May 30, 2011 Posted May 30, 2011 When you send it in, just ask for a gloss or matt finish. I did find that the final finish was little too "thick" (orange-peel) looking for me so I sanded it back with 1500g and soapy water and then polished out with burnishing compound and then polish, left me with a finish that has too be seen to be believed! First frame I had sandblasted, wasn't impressed as I did ask the guy to bead blast it which he ignored, but after powder coating looked fine. If your frame is alu then just make sure the blaster knows you want it bead blasted. awesome, thanks! it is an alu frame. Should I strip the paint chemically before bead blasting... or is there no need?!
EigerSA Posted May 30, 2011 Posted May 30, 2011 (edited) Anyone Have Ideas how to make it look more like Ti ? IOW bit darker? without giving it a solid coat ? Can it be treated so it makes it a little darker? is the frame alu? if so, polish the frame out then leave it unfinished. as time goes by it will darken perceptively. as soon as you get to a point you happy with, clear coat it. if you want a faster affect, wipe down with sodium hydroxide (drain cleaner) but dilute it first and work in stages or else it may darken too much. just remember that adding a clear coat will make it ever so slightly darker. the only concern I have with a clear coat is it may "yellow" with age. Edited May 30, 2011 by EigerSA
EigerSA Posted May 30, 2011 Posted May 30, 2011 awesome, thanks! it is an alu frame. Should I strip the paint chemically before bead blasting... or is there no need?! no need. also if you don't neutralise the stripper and the powder coaters don't dip, then the paint will effectively peel where it hits the stripper, particularly in hard to reach places like where the tubes all meet the bb. just remember to tape up the threads is all.
Minion Posted May 30, 2011 Posted May 30, 2011 Instead of chroming, just polish it.Far too much effort
EigerSA Posted May 30, 2011 Posted May 30, 2011 Far too much effort i started polishing out an alu frame, got the top tube down pretty quick, all nice and shiny. and then got bored and tired so gave it up as a bad job you're right, just too much effort
Hairy Posted May 30, 2011 Posted May 30, 2011 How is powder coating on a steel frame ... can this be done as successfully as aluminium and who in CT are the best powder-coaters to go to?
EigerSA Posted May 30, 2011 Posted May 30, 2011 How is powder coating on a steel frame ... can this be done as successfully as aluminium and who in CT are the best powder-coaters to go to? no problem at all
Hairy Posted May 30, 2011 Posted May 30, 2011 Would it be sacrilegious to powdercoat a On-One Inbred SS frame?
EigerSA Posted May 30, 2011 Posted May 30, 2011 you bought it, you own it, do what you want to it. I would first try and track down some on-one inbred stickers for after though.
brussel Posted May 30, 2011 Posted May 30, 2011 anodizing is not like a dye as a previous poster mentioned. Anodizing chemically alters the surface of alu making it hard and porous. A dye is added and then it is boiled to seal the pores. I can imagine decals do not stick well to it.
Hairy Posted May 30, 2011 Posted May 30, 2011 you bought it, you own it, do what you want to it. I would first try and track down some on-one inbred stickers for after though. I have tried to get new stickers from them (UK guys) and they were incredibly unhelpful and eventually said that they could not help me at the end of the day. I own it, but I feel bad re-doing the paint job, granted if I had the stickers I might well have done this a long time ago.
EigerSA Posted May 30, 2011 Posted May 30, 2011 (edited) I have tried to get new stickers from them (UK guys) and they were incredibly unhelpful and eventually said that they could not help me at the end of the day. I own it, but I feel bad re-doing the paint job, granted if I had the stickers I might well have done this a long time ago. Take a good photo of it, then find a printer who'll do the decals for you, try asking at hobby crafts shop. surprised the onone guys didn't want to help, very unfriendly Edited May 30, 2011 by EigerSA
EigerSA Posted May 30, 2011 Posted May 30, 2011 anodizing is not like a dye as a previous poster mentioned. Anodizing chemically alters the surface of alu making it hard and porous. A dye is added and then it is boiled to seal the pores. I can imagine decals do not stick well to it. as I said early, it's how I understood how anodizing worked. do you work in the industry? how would it hold up against powder coating? it just works on alu, is that right?
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