jockey wheels

[Slowbee]

so I managed Sani2. But I noticed a couple of things.

 

 

First, alot of gunk collects between the jockey wheel and the cage. How do you limit this gunk from collecting and is it really neccesary to clean it off during a multiday ride like the S2C.

 

 

Secondly, will a jockey wheel that has holes in it (am thinking of the kcnc) ones help with getting ride of the gunk?

 

 

 

 

And do the jockey wheels need to be specific for the specific brand of cage or size of cage ? Do you need a torque wrench to make sure the wheels are tightened correctly ?

 

 

Help appreciated.

[I FLY]

I had those jockey wheels from KCNC. During one race grass/twigs got stuck in the holes and stopped the jockey wheels from turning.

 

As a result the chain ripped off the hanger and forced the rear derailer into the spokes. Apart from the obvious replacement costs I ended up doing 60kms on a single speed conversion.

 

I went back to the solid jockey wheels.

[Vinnydabutcher]

Most jockey wheels are compatible - however there is a diff between the upper and lower wheels - dont switch them around.

 

The lower wheel has a little bit of "travel from left to right to help guide the chain the upper wheel doesnt.

 

The amount of gunk will stay the same with KCNC wheels as it sits between the cage and wheel.

 

2 things that will minimize the gunk - 1. Clean the jockey wheels regurarly - I did sani and just sprayed them off. 2. Wet lube for muddy rides - really does help.

 

Also try not to ride big blade front and big sprocket rear as this puts tension on the rear derailleur and moves the lower jockey wheel closer to the ground picking up more ka@k.

 

No need to clean it off during a ride - wet lube will help - but deff clean out grass and twigs when you are finished.

 

Hope it helps

 

PS: Sram has less of this that shimano - personal opinion!

[Slowbee]

, ok, so ride withthe gunk and be done with it then.

 

 

 

thanks fly

 

 

Vinny, trust me, I spent very little time in the big blade. But I get your point.

[patches]

Those aftermarket jockey wheels like the KCNC, Token, and Xact (I think that's the brand) should work on your RD as long as you buy the MTB ones (11T).

 

The only time it may give you a hassle is if you're running a SRAM RD with an upper jockey that looks like this:

 

http://www.evanscycles.com/product_image/image/55d/e46/d3a/27406/product_page/sram-x9-jockey-wheels.jpg?1227119223

(the one in the botton of the pic. Note, not all SRAM RD's have these type of upper jockey wheels. Only certain models from certain years)

 

These don't bolt through the centre, whereas all the aftermarket ones (that I've seen) do... so will not work.

 

But if you're running shimano... you should have no problem.

[The Drongo]

so I managed Sani2. Good on you mate! Aren't you doing Freedom? But I noticed a couple of things.

 

 

First, alot of gunk collects between the jockey wheel and the cage. What lube are you using? Found that Dry Lube tends to build up on J Wheels more than Wet. But wet makes more of a mess of the chain How do you limit this gunk from collecting (Lube type. New debate coming?? ) and is it really neccesary to clean it off during a multiday ride like the S2C. (It's not to difficult to do so at the end of the day if it is bad??)

 

 

Secondly, will a jockey wheel that has holes in it (am thinking of the kcnc) ones help with getting ride of the gunk?

( I think that the small holes add to the problem. The larger cut outs allow build up to drop out though, so the buildup not as bad as the nylon types. What I have found with the KCNC is that grass winds itself between the wheel and the bearing reducers - gold bits - and this makes the buggers hard to turn. You generally need to remove them, wiggle off the reducer and clear the interference, but they are brilliant wheels though. Just regrease the bearings regularly, and they will last the life of the wheel. )

 

 

 

 

And do the jockey wheels need to be specific for the specific brand of cage or size of cage ? Nope, not for the cage, but for the cluster. You need 11 tooth for 9/10 speed. KCNC are 11 T. Do you need a torque wrench to make sure the wheels are tightened correctly ? Nope, just a little locktite on the thread. You may even need to slack off a bit from full tight in order for the bearing to spin freely.

 

 

Help appreciated.

[Slowbee]

, I run sram ......

 

 

 

I will have to go and investigate further ..... this is going to be a fun winter ...

[The Drongo]

 

Most jockey wheels are compatible - however there is a diff between the upper and lower wheels - dont switch them around.

 

 

 

Doesn't apply to KCNC shown. Shimano upper pulley, or G-Pulley is marked as such, and shouldn't be swapped - 100%

Edited May 30, 2011 by The Drongo

[The Drongo]

, I run sram ......

 

 

 

I will have to go and investigate further ..... this is going to be a fun winter ...

 

S' not a ploblem! KCNC works with Sram so long as you don't have the model that runs as above. But you said you running KCNC already.

Edited May 30, 2011 by The Drongo

[Guest]

Let me help you out here.

gunk collects there cause of the gunk you put on your chain.

waxes are not for chains...best kept for bedroom activities

Purple Extreme or Rock n Roll gold should be the only two lubes you use

[Slowbee]

Alec,no need to hijack. But I used motorex wet lube. Going through all the mud did not hellp tho. But the thought of grass getting in the holes and jamming the system is more of a concern as opposed to riding with gunk.

[The Drongo]

Alec,no need to hijack. But I used motorex wet lube. Going through all the mud did not hellp tho. But the thought of grass getting in the holes and jamming the system is more of a concern as opposed to riding with gunk.

 

Slowmod. I did not say grass gets in the holes. It gets between the wheel and the reducers.

Same happens with Shimano et al, behind the washers, but not anywhere near as bad.

[Johan Bornman]

Most jockey wheels are compatible - however there is a diff between the upper and lower wheels - dont switch them around.

 

The lower wheel has a little bit of "travel from left to right to help guide the chain the upper wheel doesnt.

 

It is the other way round. The upper wheel, or guide pulley, has some play to help compensate for out-of-tune gear settings. The lower pulley, or tension pulley, is solid laterally.