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Headset press tool


Niner
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Does anyone know where I could buy a parktool headset press in SA. Either the silver one or their black one with blue handles.

 

Looked at buycycle and cwcycles but no joy.

 

Even a good 2nd will help. Anyone want go sell theirs?

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Depending in the type of headet, is it a good idea to face the head tube before installation?

(Like one does with the BB)

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Depending in the type of headet, is it a good idea to face the head tube before installation?

(Like one does with the BB)

 

Yes it is, but in most cases if it is a new frame you only need to remove the paint without damageing the BB or Headtube material. Also have it measured or measure it yourself before doing this.

 

If it aint broke do not fix it!

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Thanks

 

Now I just need to find where to get those brass cups....

 

I was living in Mozambique when I did it the first time. I use the back end of socket spanners that would fit. Just nake sure your use a small stack of washers to transfer the load properly. It worked. Also read the "recipe" given by Johan. There are very valuable hints and tips there. I have since turned my own maggefterkies on my small lathe at home and it works very well and is aextremely accurate. I have also made myself a upper nut with fancy handles like the commercial ones. Unfortunately no photos as it is in my garage in SA.

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I recently made use of a version of JB's recipe and it worked perfectly.

 

Used (in reverse order) 2 x thumb-screws from my Thule bike carrier clamps as the nuts on each end of a length of prescribed threaded rod, followed by the large washers with small hole to spread load, and with sections of drilled pine plank(about 30cm x 8cm x 2cm) compressing directly onto the upper and lower bearings, with headtube in the middle. The leverage afforded by the two sections of timber (with holes/contact points offset to one side rather than centred) allowed me to precisely and independently align the upper and lower bearings while tightening (using fingers for the Thule thumbscrews rather than spanners & nuts to effect the compression), to ensure they went in straight. Also lightly coated the external contact surfaces of the bearings/headtube with grease to assist.

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I recently made use of a version of JB's recipe and it worked perfectly.

 

Used (in reverse order) 2 x thumb-screws from my Thule bike carrier clamps as the nuts on each end of a length of prescribed threaded rod, followed by the large washers with small hole to spread load, and with sections of drilled pine plank(about 30cm x 8cm x 2cm) compressing directly onto the upper and lower bearings, with headtube in the middle. The leverage afforded by the two sections of timber (with holes/contact points offset to one side rather than centred) allowed me to precisely and independently align the upper and lower bearings while tightening (using fingers for the Thule thumbscrews rather than spanners & nuts to effect the compression), to ensure they went in straight. Also lightly coated the external contact surfaces of the bearings/headtube with grease to assist.

 

Very good idea. Wood will not damage anything, it is cheap to replace and the thicker the wood, and more accurately the hole is zized and drilled the more accurate your alignment will be.

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