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Please help choose parts for making 9-spd MTB trail-ready :)


Cuppa Bru
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Hi Fellow Hubbers

 

I don't yet know enough about MTBing to be confident that I am buying the correct parts, but I desperately want to fix up my bro's MTB on a budget so I can hit some singletrack at Groenkloef/Klapperkop, so please help me choose some parts from CWCycles.co.za:

 

Wheels -http://www.cwcycles.co.za/catalog/78

Shimano MT15 Wheelset for R750 - http://www.cwcycles....o-mt15-wheelset

 

Tubes - http://www.cwcycles.co.za/catalog/72

Do I go for 2.125" or 2.5"? ?:|

Prob go for 2.5" if the Conti X-King is 2.2/2.4.

 

Tyres - http://www.cwcycles.co.za/catalog/74

Not going tubeless, as I'm not worried about weight and am more comfortable with the idea of tubes and some cladding for heavy, but spikeproof wheels. Plus, tubeless costs more? Tubeless kit + Special tyres + Maintenance more expensive than Normal tyres + tubes?

Continental X-King was the heaviest, and thus assuming strongest, tyre I could find R499 marked down from R700- http://www.cwcycles....-22-ust-tyre-26

 

Cassette - http://www.cwcycles....ette-mtb?page=1

Shimano? SRAM?

Cheapest is a Shimano HG50 for R250

HG61 is R320 and has a spider system for extra stiffness and durability. Anybody know what this spider system is? lol

 

Chain - http://www.cwcycles....og/parts/chains

Don't even know if there are different types for MTBing vs Road :(

Just know I need a 9spd.

 

Crankset - http://www.cwcycles....ts/crankset-mtb

LBS only mentioned cassette and chain needed to be replaced, so I should be okay.

 

 

Thank you in advance.

Itching to hit some trails :)

 

A great site, but a lot to digest still: http://www.sheldonbrown.com

Edited by mitychondrion
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Hi Fellow Hubbers

 

I don't yet know enough about MTBing to be confident that I am buying the correct parts, but I desperately want to fix up my bro's MTB on a budget so I can hit some singletrack at Groenkloef/Klapperkop, so please help me choose some parts from CWCycles.co.za:

 

Tubes - http://www.cwcycles.co.za/catalog/72

Do I go for 2.125" or 2.5"? ?:|

Prob go for 2.5" if the Conti X-King is 2.2/2.4.

 

Go for the continentals. They're very versatile, catering for 1.75" - 2.5". I've even used them on my DH bike running 2.5" tyres. Not ideal for DH, but will be more than adequate for XC/trail

 

 

Tyres - http://www.cwcycles.co.za/catalog/74

Not going tubeless, as I'm not worried about weight and am more comfortable with the idea of tubes and some cladding for heavy, but spikeproof wheels. Plus, tubeless costs more? Tubeless kit + Special tyres + Maintenance more expensive than Normal tyres + tubes?

Continental X-King was the heaviest, and thus assuming strongest, tyre I could find R499 marked down from R700- http://www.cwcycles.co.za/product/continental-x-king-22-ust-tyre-26

 

Don't forget that the main purpose of the tyre is grip! I would go for an X-king (or Race King in 2.2) at the rear, as it has a pretty low rolling resistance, and a Mountain king (in 2.4) at the front where you need a lot of grip. The Mountain King front, Race King back combo is very popular.

 

Cassette - http://www.cwcycles.co.za/catalog/parts/cassette-mtb?page=1

Shimano? SRAM?

Cheapest is a Shimano HG50 for R250

HG61 is R320 and has a spider system for extra stiffness and durability. Anybody know what this spider system is? lol

 

Shimano/SRAM doesn't matter in my opinion. Both will fit your freehub body. Go for what is cheaper. As for the "spider", it's an aluminium "core" so to speak, on which all the sprockets are fixed. It will be stiffer, as well as reduce the chance of those nasty little "bite marks" that the other kind often leave on one's freehub body

 

 

Chain - http://www.cwcycles.co.za/catalog/parts/chains

Don't even know if there are different types for MTBing vs Road :(

Just know I need a 9spd.

 

I usually just go for the cheapest 9sp chain... like a Shimano HG50, I'm not phased whether it's a Deore or an XTR... just make sure you get a SRAM quick link to go with it

 

 

Crankset - http://www.cwcycles.co.za/catalog/parts/crankset-mtb

Will have to wait for next month. Plus there aren't any specials running on CWCycles for a MTB crankset.

 

 

Thank you in advance.

Itching to hit some trails :)

 

A great site, but a lot to digest still: http://www.sheldonbrown.com

 

Anyway, happy trails... hope that helps

Edited by patches
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Anyway, happy trails... hope that helps

 

Patches, thank you for your reply!

 

Unfortunately, no stock on HG50. The HG61 is only available in 11/34 configuration. Insane granny gear :D

Any idea where to get 11/28?

Edited by mitychondrion
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With those MT15's you dont need a special tubeless kit to go tubeless. I have just set up a new set as training wheels. I would strongly consider it.

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why not go double ring in the front? that is what i am going to do very shortly on my mtb.

 

You mean just get a double road bike crankset such as a 53/39? I like low cadence, but I'm not anywhere near strong enough to push 39/34 ratio up jeep track by Klapperkop etc.

Saw this on CWCycles last night. R199 for a Compagnolo Veloce 53/39 crankset - http://www.cwcycles.co.za/product/campagnolo-veloce-crankset

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Why make it so complicated?

 

Sounds like you are fixing up an old bike... Why not put on a standard size cassette, which is usually 11-32.

 

Also you say you don't need a crank, so why get one? If you do get one, why a road one??? you seem to be making this very complicated. Why go 2x9 unless there's a good reason. 3x9 has been around for a long time on MTB's for a reason.

 

KISS

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KISS it is.

 

Being a roadie I liked Volcan_KZN's suggestion of a double blade crankset, but I'll keep the old triple blade crankset and not waste money.

 

Ordering a Shimano HG61 11-32 cassette and Sram PC 971 Chain (9sp) as soon as CWCycles have stock.

Robrider, what did you buy to convert those MT15s into tubeless? Did you use UST-specific tyre with something like one of the following?

http://www.cwcycles.co.za/product/bbt-tubeless-rimstrip-and-valve

http://www.cwcycles.co.za/product/stans-rim-strip-standard

And then just add sludge?

 

Having a look at http://www.gotubeless.com/

 

Thank you for your advice, patches, Volcan & Robrider!

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I already had one stans strip (your second link) so I used it on the one wheel and it worked perfectly (as they do).

 

I had bought a pair of valves simmilar to the following link for my other set of wheels which are actual UST wheels, and I thought I would give it a shot on the second wheel and it also worked easily. No tape or anything.

 

http://www.cwcycles.co.za/product/stans-no-tubes-universal-valve-35mm

 

I used old used UST tyres because they are my training wheels, and some stans sealant inside.

 

http://www.cwcycles.co.za/product/stans-sealant-950ml

 

I would recommend UST tyres for the puncture resistance, although some of the racing guys use normal tyres because they are lighter, but I think they would puncture easier.

 

 

 

Your other option is to do a "ghetto conversion" using a bxm tube. If you do a search you will find a thread that explains it nicely.

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Tape the rim using stans tape, buy some Tubeless valves. My LBS sells them for something silly like R40. You can use normal tyres, just add a lot more sealant. Bonus points if you use a non corrosive one. I dig the Caffelatex that I'm using right now.

Trust me, armouring normal tyres and tubes to make them puncture proof is nowhere as effective as tubeless. Look for the maxxis crossmarks, they can be had for lank chea, last forever and mine never punctured. As you become a better rider look for tyres with better grip. But according to my Gauteng mates they are fine for up there.

Enjoy!

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