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Posted
Did you guys know these rims (not the hubs) are manufactured in East London? They are really super guys and the wheels are great quality' date=' but they really are "racing wheels" and not really suitable for everyday use.  They also import carbon wheelsets, both for clinchers and tubbies.[/quote']

 

beg todiffer...ekt die jaar lelik geval met paar AM's...sal nou gou paar bewyse gaan soek..en ek dink glad nie dit het iets met gewig te doen...Dead
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Posted
Did you guys know these rims (not the hubs) are manufactured in East London? They are really super guys and the wheels are great quality' date=' but they really are "racing wheels" and not really suitable for everyday use.  They also import carbon wheelsets, both for clinchers and tubbies.[/quote']

 

beg todiffer...ekt die jaar lelik geval met paar AM's...sal nou gou paar bewyse gaan soek..en ek dink glad nie dit het iets met gewig te doen...Dead

 

Were they the magnesium rims?
Posted

Are these the best wheels to buy>????????????

 

I'd say not. They're quite strange wheels in many ways.

 

Firstly, the rims are extremely flimsy (they substitute the word "light" for flimsy in the brochures and website), yet they've gone for a 32-spoke design.

 

Then, to save weight on the spokes, they've gone for half Revolutions, half normal double-butted.

 


What is really strange is that they've gone for spokes that are 3 or 4mm longer than normal and then compensated for that with special nipples that can screw in deeper.

 

 

It's all a bit strange to me. The rims are just not strong enough for any realistic use. They're so thin and flimsy they dent on the sidewalls from minor bumps. Then, to make up for magnesium's propensity to oxidise very, very easily (it also burns spectacularly), they've had to anodise it (they call it a ceramic coating, but it's just glass). This glass coating cracks very easily, especially on a thin substrate like a sheet of magnesium and then the cracks propagate into the aluminium, causing traveling stress cracks that rapidly weaken the spoke areas in the rim.

 

Those strange nipples make them a factory-only repair item unless you can find a wheelbuilder that's prepared to painstakingly remove and re-cut every second spoke a few mm shorter.

 

A better design would have been a sturdy alu rim with fewer spokes, even a full compliment of 2mm - 1.5mm - 2mm spokes (but onoy if they're handbuilt, a machine can't build with this).

 

In my view these wheels are stupid light, and then in all the wrong places. Buy them at your own peril.

 

 

 

 
Posted

hi johan -

here is my thing then again:

180cm, 80kg subvet who gets dropped on climbs but can keep with the bunch otherwise...

i own a set of shimano whr 550 -

what would you  buy if you were me, to help me climb better??

1) say money was not an issue?

2) say one was looking for good value

 
Posted

hi johan -

here is my thing then again:

180cm' date=' 80kg subvet who gets dropped on climbs but can keep with the bunch otherwise...

i own a set of shimano whr 550 -

what would you  buy if you were me, to help me climb better??

1) say money was not an issue?

2) say one was looking for good value

 
[/quote']

I would stop looking for products and start adopting strategies.

 

Climbing has nothing to do with products and everything to do with

1) Body weight

2) Training techniques

3) Muscle composition.

 

No matter how many time bicycle magazines repeat the old story that "rotating weight" is X-times more important than weight elsewhere on the bicycle, it remains nonsense. On a bicycle, weight is weight and at 80kgs, you are at a huge disadvantage over a 70kg person when it comes to the climb. On the flats your extra body weight isn't much of a disadvantage because there it is a matter of aerodynamics and a heavier body isn't any (negligible) bigger to the wind than a smaller body.

 

The type of weight you can save on your wheels is a waste of time in comparison to dropping 5 or 8kgs off your body.

 

 
Posted

I must admit, as much as I like "Bling" and fancy wheels, I seriously doubt a wheel is going to improve your riding, especially on the climbs. I would rather spend the time and money on losing the weight... I mean how much of a saving on the climb will these wheels be? Somehow I think you still going to get dropped. Look at the entire system ie. You, and your bike. Let's assume altogether you weigh 90kg's and on a 1km climb you're able to generate an average power output of 300w thus giving you a power to weight ratio in the region of 3.33w/kg. Now, let's assume that your Magnesium wheels will save you 800g, it would mean that your new power to weight ratio is 3.36w/kg.

 

Now that is an improvement of 0.03w/kg!!! Not worth it in my opinion especially if those wheels are going to cost you in the region of R7K or more.

 

But that's just my ignorant 2c...

 

Posted

I have to agree with Johan - those wheels are stupid. You may not have problems, but you probably will.

 

At 82kg I'm about 7kg over my ideal cycling weight and I am 189cm. You'd be much better off dropping 10kg to be able to stay with the sub-vets. Or just get used to being dropped and ride with us at the back.

Posted

well, i dont know what it is like staying with them right up to the finish line...

thus i am more than used to finding the first A's picking me up...

 

i have managed to timetrial to the end a few times... but with the PPA now taking away my iPod, which got me there, will probably make that even less remote in the future...

 

how i will get another 10kg down is a mystery! dropped from 89kg of gym weight down to the 80kg now...

 

but i am working on it!
Posted

not allowed anymore to have an ipod on your body during their races...

not as if any sane person would use it in a bunch...

 

i used to use it to and from races and when i get dropped when i needed that extra help on my own

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