Smolly Posted July 6, 2012 Share GXP BB?Hell. Beats me. Its on a mtb if that helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rouxtjie Posted July 6, 2012 Share Hell. Beats me. Its on a mtb if that helps.What crank do you have Truvativ...Shimano...Raceface? What logo/printing do you have on the crankarm? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smolly Posted July 6, 2012 Share FSA cranks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rouxtjie Posted July 6, 2012 Share FSA cranksCool if you had a SRAM/Truvativ one you will be going through bearings like anything. As soon as changed to enduro's my kuk went away, think the bearings are sub-standard on them to be honest. As soon as you can swop your bearings out for enduros...do so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smolly Posted July 6, 2012 Share Thanks, will do! How many $$? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rouxtjie Posted July 6, 2012 Share Thanks, will do! How many $$?O demmit, not 100% sure, but cheaper than a whole bb that is for sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smolly Posted July 6, 2012 Share Cool, thanks for the info, last one, how difficult is it to replace, starting to do all my own work on my bike to save some moooola. Ps: apologies for the hi-jack, but the questions are related Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rouxtjie Posted July 6, 2012 Share Cool, thanks for the info, last one, how difficult is it to replace, starting to do all my own work on my bike to save some moooola. Ps: apologies for the hi-jack, but the questions are relatedI have BB92, so its pressfit...you need the right tool, BB30 might be easier, I am not sure...think you can just tap/pop the suckers out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smolly Posted July 6, 2012 Share I have BB92, so its pressfit...you need the right tool, BB30 might be easier, I am not sure...think you can just tap/pop the suckers out.Awesome! Thanks again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Posted July 6, 2012 Share Clicking noise .... is that a Khoisan BB? Andro 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nofearnofun Posted July 7, 2012 Share Thanks all for the advise, After stripping I have found that I have the older square spindle. I also found that when assembled there is slimight movement from side to side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilipV Posted July 7, 2012 Share Play from side to side means the bb needs to be tightened (spelling?) Or the same for the crank arm. Don't grease the BB spindle crank arm interface. Some will say different! But the arm relies on the taper to stay put. So tighten that sucker down really well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilipV Posted July 7, 2012 Share Play from side to side means the bb needs to be tightened (spelling?) Or the same for the crank arm. Don't grease the BB spindle crank arm interface. Some will say different! But the arm relies on the taper to stay put. So tighten that sucker.(Crank arm) down really well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nofearnofun Posted July 7, 2012 Share Play from side to side means the bb needs to be tightened (spelling?) Or the same for the crank arm. Don't grease the BB spindle crank arm interface. Some will say different! But the arm relies on the taper to stay put. So tighten that sucker.(Crank arm) down really well. The play was there after insuring the crank arms were as tight as possible. I'm guessing that means the BB needs to be tightened, do I need any special tool to tighten the BB? I have thought about putting some lock tight on the thread of the bolt that secures the crank arm to the spindle to ensure it doesn't come loose. Is this a good idea? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johan Bornman Posted July 7, 2012 Share If it is this bike:http://www.merida-bi...Matts+TFS+300-D Then you have an octalink:This system, designed by Shimano, was the first successful alternative to the older square taper. The Octalink system uses a larger and stiffer spindle with eight splines. The splines provide a greater contact area between crank and spindle for a stiffer interface. Octalink exists in the marketplace in two variants, Octalink v1 and Octalink v2. The difference between the two can be seen by the depth of mounting grooves on the bottom bracket spindle. XTR, 105, Ultegra 6500 and Dura Ace 7700 cranksets mate to version one bottom brackets, while later mountain bike designs use the deeper-grooved version two. The system is proprietary and protected by Shimano patents and licence fees, thus few third-party manufacturers (such as Blackspire) produce Octalink cranksets. While some competitors to Shimano (especially Campagnolo) continued to use the older square taper, others worked together to create a similar ISIS design as a free alternative. Although Octalink is a successful and reliable three-piece system, Shimano's newer two-piece systems integrate the spindle onto the right crank Allow me to edit this press release for you: Octalink was perpetrated and thankfully not widely licensed by Shimano. It wa and still is a crime against bicycle progress. Its claim to fame over square taper BBs is the old hackneyed lighter, stiffer faster. Unfortunately the oversize hollow axle meant that the bearings have to be smaller and they thus fail far, fair quicekr than the equivalent square taper BB with larger bearings. Octalink 1 was a resounding failure. It was introduced just when mountain biking became popular and the perpetrators of Octalink never thought that someone would stand on both pedals with the cranks horizontal, jump over stuff and land forcefully on the crank. The alternative landing method know as the nutcrusher, wasn't acceptable to the MTB community at large and they chose to land on their feet, so to speak. Octalink orignal, classic or as it became known after its flaw as discovered, Octalink V1, had splines that were too short and tore out of the cranks upon landing. If the bike rider was hotfoot, the lash would even loosen the bolt on the left side and ruin the crank even quicker. Instead of recalling the product, Shimano arrogantly simply produced a V2.0 and pretended it was an improvement when it in fact, was just an attempt (with wider splines) to stem the flood of ruined cranks. However, they then went one step further in stupidity and fitted roller bearings to the Dura Ace version of the BB which was a resounding and spectacular failure. Roller bearings prefer an oil bath instead of grease and the bearings thus simply don't last. Since Shimano's licensing terms were onerous, the YANKS decided to bypass the patent with a few tricks. They invented the ISIS BB which had ten, instead of eight (octa) splines. Whoopee - same small bearings and same premature failure. Luckily the ISIS consortium used wider splines. By no stretch of the imagination can Octalink be considered a success. Even Shimano abandoned it and substituted a different system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johan Bornman Posted July 7, 2012 Share FSA cranksOOps, another folly. FSA (being an American company that doesn't like not invented there) didn't want to stick with the 24mm crank axle standard that Shimano produced and therefore produced a crank with a 24.1mm axle. You can use FSA bearings with that or, FSA. Most people therefore choose FSA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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