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Disc brake hose shortening


M L

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Ok, I know this was discussed before but somehow the forum's search option is as good as Zuma's word.

 

I shortened my new disc brake's hoses yesterday, followed a link I got on the web. It is for shimano 2011 and up but it went south.

 

Loosened the calipers, took out the pads, pulled the lever a few times to get the pistons out, loosened the nut on the lever, took out cable, cut to desired length, insert olive, hammer in the small pin thing while clamped into the yellow blocks, insert cable, tighten until you need the spanner, then another 1/4 turn, use tyre lever to push back the piston (only one came out?), insert pads and bobs your uncle...

 

But no, after all this the front brake was fine, but the rear had some mineral oil next to the caliper and there was no pressure in the lever.

 

I did give the cable a good clean cut.

 

What did I do wrong and how do I fix it?

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Why did you take out brakepads? Just take out cable on top at lever, follow the what you did then! Put back hose at brake lever! If you did not mors any fluid, it should work fine, otherwise just bleed them till all bubbles are out and then Fred's your uncle!

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Why did you push the pistons out?

This has got nothing to do with shortening of the hose and in all likelyhood you now need to rebuild the calipers.

 

 

".......but the rear had some mineral oil next to the caliper and there was no pressure in the lever."

 

Could you explain this more as I don't understand what you are trying so state here

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What is this cable you speak of?

 

Never ever ever ever pull the lever with no pads or a disc fitted to the caliper. Bad things happen.

 

Also, when a hose is shortened you need to bleed the brakes to be 100% correct.

 

 

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Google is your friend!!!!!!!

 

http://www.bbinstitu..._chapter_37.pdf

 

http://www.shimano.c...69830688492.pdf ....... This is just a guideline on what is available on the Shimano Technical site.

You don't think someone else will/have cut their own hoses without needing them bled? This thread will hopefully give some info on what I did wrong, how to correct it, and how to prevent it for future reference.

 

Googled and could not find a straight answer to someone who messed up shortening their shimano disc brake hoses.

 

Tried pumping the lever as per one user's advice but that does nothing. So I suspect there is a air leak in the system but I don't know.

 

Now, I get the feeling you are still sour about a comment I made, you made your reply and I left it at that, I would appreciate it if you keep your unjust comments to yourself.

Edited by MTB Marinio
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A great site for this DIY info is the Park Tool site.

 

Don't give up and do it again.

 

Don't mind old grumpy diaper. Most likely his hip giving problems again.

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Why did you push the pistons out?

This has got nothing to do with shortening of the hose and in all likelyhood you now need to rebuild the calipers.

 

 

".......but the rear had some mineral oil next to the caliper and there was no pressure in the lever."

 

Could you explain this more as I don't understand what you are trying so state here

Refer to my comment for jorsie.

 

Ok, so the brakes where on the bike (cables were clipped in (the cables where attached to the frame) but the calipers where hanging loose), after shortening there was mineral oil on the floor at the rear caliper (why would there be oil?)

 

Why did you take out brakepads? Just take out cable on top at lever, follow the what you did then! Put back hose at brake lever! If you did not mors any fluid, it should work fine, otherwise just bleed them till all bubbles are out and then Fred's your uncle!

Cause that is what the steps in the link said I should do. Found the link on mtbr (I think) few guys tried those steps and it worked a treat.

 

What is this cable you speak of?

 

Never ever ever ever pull the lever with no pads or a disc fitted to the caliper. Bad things happen.

 

Also, when a hose is shortened you need to bleed the brakes to be 100% correct.

Shimano hydraulic disc brake cable. Like deore/slx/xt (new models).

 

The idea behind removing the pads and then pulling the levers to get the pistons out (not all the way) was to push all the air that got in when cutting the cable back into the reservoir afterwards when you push them back).

Edited by MTB Marinio
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The best way to learn is through mistakes!

You didnt do much wrong, just dont shorten them at the callipers but rather on top at the levers and dont loosen or fiddle with callipers! After shortening, just bleed them and you will be set! Hope you come right, otherwise no riding for you this weekend!

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The best way to learn is through mistakes!

You didnt do much wrong, just dont shorten them at the callipers but rather on top at the levers and dont loosen or fiddle with callipers! After shortening, just bleed them and you will be set! Hope you come right, otherwise no riding for you this weekend!

Exactly!

 

Also, didn't shorten at calipers, shortened at levers but used the calipers to supposedly bleed them.

 

The "no lever pressure" is probably from no oil in the system, will have to go get a bleed kit, should have bought one long ago but shimano brakes are just so trouble free, never needed them.

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Patience and attitude helps a lot too.

 

There is an old tibettan saying that goes "measure twice cut once"

or read twice (at least) before do.

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It sounds like the piston popped out too far... it's happened to me with shimano slx. I had to bleed the brakes but the piston popped back in quite easily. Always stick in a bleeding block (yellow plastic thing) if you pump the lever without pads. Half of the yellow clamp can work as well.

 

FYI shimano calipers are simple in construction but awesome:

http://forums.mtbr.com/brake-time/ever-wondered-how-hydraulic-brake-calliper-works-848452.html

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