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Posted

You got a new tyre :eek: was worried about mosquitos out there on Saturday :whistling:

hhahahhaha classic. That tyre was moeg moeg moeg....I think I had like 1 kg worth of dried up stans in there.

 

New tyre fitted on Sunday, converted....like a baws.

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Posted

Excellent! Thanks a mil for the advice. I do not have a workshop chain breaker yet, so will try your "flip-up" technique tonight while hunting down a proper workshop chain breaker that will not break the bank.

 

Thanks again for the replies. I really do appreciate all the assistance.

 

No worries Always glad to help out a fellow Cyclist.

Posted

I have been using this chainbreaker for about 3 years now and it works perfectly. It was about R130.

What is the brand name of this chain breaker? is it "X-rakt"? Where can I get one. I can only find park tools, which I know are the best, but a bit higher than my budget. :whistling:

Posted

I got it at my LBS (eagle canyon cycles) but any bike shop should stock them i have seen similar one all over. RAVX and a whole bunch of other companies make identical ones.

Try Cajees, Sportsmans, solomans, Epic cycles, I have seen them all over.

It shouldnt cost more than R200

Posted

That's called the Damselfly. Just over R200 bux odd.

 

Any idea if this item is stocked by any Centurion LBS's? Or is online shop the answer? (I found it at a few online shops in RS of A)

Posted (edited)

Thanks all. Test done successfully with the "flip up the outer plate" method and a small parktool chainbreaker. The last 0.5 mm kept slipping, so a hammer, screwdriver and small socket did the trick. See attached for result. Now to do it on the real chain... This is one of the last pieces for the completed 1x1. Will load pics of completed project soon (I hope :w00t: )

post-5681-0-60552400-1385480618_thumb.jpg

Edited by theRussian
Posted

Please excuse my ignorance but what is the use of a whole chain made up with half links?

In my mind it gives you smaller adjustment segments to find the magic gear. If you use a "normal" chain, then you have to remove or add a longer piece every time you want to change it from let us say 16 teeth to 17 teeth at the back.

Posted

 

In my mind it gives you smaller adjustment segments to find the magic gear. If you use a "normal" chain, then you have to remove or add a longer piece every time you want to change it from let us say 16 teeth to 17 teeth at the back.

 

We needed a half link to ensure the left hand chain on the Tandem could be adjusted by the eccentric BB. It had two 22 tooth gears. Instead of half-linking I installed tow chainrings with 21 teeth and the problem was solved....... A whole chain with half links sounds terrible over-gunning it.

Posted

Hi Big H,

 

I am new to the whole SS thing. Really no expert on this. I read a few threads on the Hub and some other comments all over the show and decided to go the half link chain route. Not too expensive and looks a bit different. Only time will tell if it was a mistake. :oops:

 

So did you combine a normal chain with one or 2 half links?

Posted

Hi Big H,

 

I am new to the whole SS thing. Really no expert on this. I read a few threads on the Hub and some other comments all over the show and decided to go the half link chain route. Not too expensive and looks a bit different. Only time will tell if it was a mistake. :oops:

 

So did you combine a normal chain with one or 2 half links?

 

No, the one tooth more changed the ratio so did not need a half inch half link and I used a normal one inch chain. I had a little schematic explanation of how it worked. If I recall correctly it all has to do with the resultant half radii and the length of the half diameters. I cannot remember exactly. I still have five little half links that I ordered from St Johns Cycles in Britain with the new chain-wheels just in case my "one tooth up" theory did not work.

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