BB30 Creaking

[hdp_gmx]

Hi Guys,

 

I am sure that most of the guys who ride BB30 knows what i am talking about Both my road and MTB have BB30, my road bike has had the bearings replaced (after 2 months from new) and it is staring to creak again not even two weeks later. My MTB - brand new went out on the first ride last Saturday and its already started creaking, I dont like anything noisy on my bikes and its driving me absolutely insane

 

I have done some reading on the net and it looks like a common thing for BB30, some guys actualy opted to install the pressfit BSA adapters to sort the issue (convert their BB30 to BSA), others say you need to use loctite 609 when pressing the bearings in which solves the issue and not to use grease...

 

Does anybody have some advice or know of anyone i can go to that will be able to sort this out for me permanently ?

 

Cheers

Edited January 13, 2014 by hdp_gmx

[Li Mu Bai]

Carbon Assembly Paste

[kingalton]

I use normal waterproof\repellent motor grease, sorts out the squeak and it makes the bearings last longer, prevents water from getting into the bearings

[hdp_gmx]

Thanks for the reply guys, i take you use what you guys are recommending on the outer bearing race when pressing it into the frame?

Edited January 13, 2014 by hdp_gmx

[Li Mu Bai]

Thanks for the reply guys, i take you use what you guys are recommending on the outer bearing race when pressing it into the frame?

usually grease is applied to the bearing cups prior to them being pressed into the bottom bracket shell.

Edited January 13, 2014 by Li Mu Bai

[Cuppa Bru]

Carbon Assembly Paste

 

http://www.wantitall.co.za/Motorex-Carbon-Grease-100G-Can-Can-W-Brush__B003H34AWQ

R853 for 100gr LMAO

 

Only other one I found locally was 3 sachets that come for free with a Tacx torq wrench at buycycle.co.za

http://www.buycycle.co.za/workshop-and-tools/tools/wrenches-and-spanners/tacx-en-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9-10/tacx-torque-wrench.html

[Maximis]

Correct I have just done mine, used castrol all purpose bearing grease quite generously. Done 140 Kms so far and know prob.

[hdp_gmx]

Faaaantastic, thanks guys ill give it a shot

Edited January 13, 2014 by hdp_gmx

[Li Mu Bai]

Your local bike shop may have this, I found it locally at a fraction of the cost that schweinhund suggests, and have had great results with it for seatposts, handle bars etc.

as said previously, generous grease applied does the job. If it persists then go CAP. if you read up on the CAP you will understand its composition and use.http://www.competitivecyclist.com/images/items/900/TAC/TAC0005/ONECOL.jpg

Edited January 13, 2014 by Li Mu Bai

[hdp_gmx]

@Li - I have this at home, has fine granules in it does the Tacx one have that too?

 

http://www.leisurela...sembly_gel.jpeg

Edited January 13, 2014 by hdp_gmx

[Li Mu Bai]

yes, very fine silicone granules. Parktool have one with larger granules. Basic idea is that the granules require less torque to tighten components with as the 'space' between the components is now reduced(filled up).

As your BB is pressed in, grease would be what your manufacturer probably recommends. in the unlikely event that your BB is still hopelessly mismatched to the frame in terms of size, then the CAP may help. (hopefully extraction wont be an issue.)

Has your BB shell on the frame been properly "faced" prior to the BB cups being pressed in? If not, then the mis-alignment may also add to the poor fit and creaking.

[hdp_gmx]

@Li - 100% understand how it works i use it on all my carbon parts. I am not sure it has been faced to be honest... Also no cups just bearings (BB30) This could be par of the issue ill phone my LBS and find out exactly what they did or did not do

[Cuppa Bru]

Read up on carbon assembly paste for my bike a while back and now again.

Will ask my LBS to get a price.

 

The Tacx is the one to go with as it has tiny plastic beads (not abrasive - didn't find data sheet but marketing material says the formula "minimises scratches" which backs up the plastic beads).

 

The Finish Line product has abrasive (states as much in data sheet) (http://www.google.co.za/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&cad=rja&ved=0CDsQFjAB&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.finishlineusa.com%2Fdownloads%2Fproduct-information-sheets%2FFiber_Grip_Info_Sheet.pdf&ei=VgfUUon3McqthQep6oF4&usg=AFQjCNFVp4OI-SkyWK46NXy1FckMMgj9aA&bvm=bv.59026428,d.ZG4

[kingalton]

@Li - 100% understand how it works i use it on all my carbon parts. I am not sure it has been faced to be honest... Also no cups just bearings (BB30) This could be par of the issue ill phone my LBS and find out exactly what they did or did not do

If think using the carbon paste between the frame "cups" and the bearings when installing them will work...

 

when installing your crank, rather use grease, don't go crazy, but make sure the crank axle is "wet" with grease and anywhere else that is touching anything else.

 

I got a creak in my BB during December from some beach sand, cleaned the outside of the bearing and only had carbon paste to apply, it started creaking eventually until I got back home and replaced it with grease..

[SamL1220]

Sometimes manufacturers try to cut costs or are very lazy when they build bikes, for example I have seen a lot of the Specialized BB30s ship new from the factory without so much as the trace of grease on the outer race nor in the frame. And subsequently started creaking from slight tolerance issues.

 

Try re-grease and reinstall first, I wouldn't want CAP that close to my expensive bearings and their seals....

 

[Antoo]

Second last stop, to sort out my squeaking BB, was copper paste in an aerosol can. It most definitely stopped the squeaking(as will all the products noted above), though it did not resolve the cause of the squeak, which was movement of drive side cup.

In fact. my drive side cup, which was the squeaker, started to slowly easy out of the BB and after every couple 100km's I'd have to pull out my crank and repress the cup in.

Have since fixed my drive side cup into the BB with Loctite and no more squeaks and no movement in the cups.