Soufflé Posted March 1, 2014 Posted March 1, 2014 (edited) Some specifics, if item/component not listed then I use as guideline.Torque Settings.pdf Edited March 1, 2014 by Veonix Lone Rider 1
Caerus Posted March 1, 2014 Author Posted March 1, 2014 There is an element of sticktion involved in torqueing things - BUT - the most important think to know on a torque spec is if it is given as oiled or dry.... torqueing something up to a dry spec if it is oiled/lubricated is a sure fire way to break something.... and if you do it in reverse, it will probably loosen itself quite quickly.... I have a table somewhere if someone is interested, I could find it, scan and post it up. Please do
V12man Posted March 1, 2014 Posted March 1, 2014 Please do I will have to look for the catalog it is in... but in the short term - look here... see the differences... http://raskcycle.com/techtip/webdoc14.html
Dirtbreath Posted March 1, 2014 Posted March 1, 2014 There is an element of sticktion involved in torqueing things - BUT - the most important think to know on a torque spec is if it is given as oiled or dry.... torqueing something up to a dry spec if it is oiled/lubricated is a sure fire way to break something.... and if you do it in reverse, it will probably loosen itself quite quickly.... I have a table somewhere if someone is interested, I could find it, scan and post it up. Would threadlock count as lubed or dry?
Dirtbreath Posted March 1, 2014 Posted March 1, 2014 Lubed So now I need to recheck every bolt I've torqued the last 7 years! Eish.
V12man Posted March 1, 2014 Posted March 1, 2014 So now I need to recheck every bolt I've torqued the last 7 years! Eish. Maybe you should check what the spec torques are first... wet or dry - I think that the bike industry in general is wet specs, there was a section in one of the parktool books on that somewhere - but I can't find it in my blue book... might have been some other place.
Pusher Posted March 1, 2014 Posted March 1, 2014 Some info from Park Tool.http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/torque-specifications-and-concepts
Goodbadugly Posted March 2, 2014 Posted March 2, 2014 (edited) Check it.... sometimes they can be wildly out.... even ex factory. I had a digital snap-on that drifted over time.... got to be out by about 50% - figured that out the hard way - stripped a cylinder head stud in an engine case..... lost about 40 hours of work that had to be repeated... Said digital snap on died a horrible death.... and it's warrantee replacement was sold instantly...Check it.A few months ago I removed the top of my plaasbakkie engine. I had it skimmed and pressure checked. I Checked the torque specs. 88nm. After torquing it, I filled the engine with oil and water. And started the engine. Only to find that the new Payen gasket was leaking from everywhere.So I phoned the guy who did the skimming and k@kked him out for his poor skimming job. I took the top back. Only for him to show me the top WAS flat So it had to be a defective gasket... I bought a new gasket and assembled the whole thing again. And torqued it to 88nm. Correct sequence, new bolts and all. And filled it with water and oil again. I stared it up again. Water coming from the sides of the engine. Spluttering.I then got another torque wrench. Needless to say, the bolts moved another 180 deg. And the problem was solved... Edited March 2, 2014 by Goodbadugly
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