dirtypot Posted October 24, 2014 Share I'm trying to do a rebuild on a Reba fork, but I can't work out the long air valve on the brake side. I can't see any way to release it. There is no nut, and no way to get any tool connected to it. I've removed the valve core to see if there was something to connect a hex key onto, but there's nothing. I've tried pulling it out, and tapping it to release but it will not budge. I can't find anything online about a long valve like this one.Any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
divernick Posted October 24, 2014 Share https://www.sram.com/service/rockshox/7,103 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtypot Posted October 24, 2014 Share I've looked on there. It shows what all of the other rebuild how to's show - a 10mm nut at the end of the thread. None of the guides or videos show a long valve like this inside a hollow chamber. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hilton. Posted October 24, 2014 Share Is this with the lowers pushed all the way up, so that the stanchions are covered entirely? (fork in fully compressed state) If so, does this valve retract into the lowers when you extend the lowers to their normal position again? I'm almost certain that this valve is for the negative air chamber, as I just serviced my solo air Reba yesterday. But I don't know how to help you. Did you screw any bolts off of this valve? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrJacques Posted October 24, 2014 Share I struggled to get the lowers of a Reba. Turns out I just had to hit harder with the hammer http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/workshop-how-to-service-rockshox-reba-suspension-forks-23142/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hilton. Posted October 24, 2014 Share I struggled to get the lowers of a Reba. Turns out I just had to hit harder with the hammer http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/workshop-how-to-service-rockshox-reba-suspension-forks-23142/I had exactly the same problem. It took me ages to get the lowers off. Turns out, I just needed to hit the allen key, when inserted into the bolts, a bit harder. (and also there was no audible/tactile feedback that the lowers were released, so I could have gone on hitting for a while ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
droo Posted October 24, 2014 Share There should be a nut in there - yours is missing a part. I'd suggest you get hold of a new one before you strip the fork - you won't get it back together without that part. I've got the agents looking for one for you, I'll report back shortly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
droo Posted October 24, 2014 Share As for removing the lowers, you'll need the nut on the shaft so you can knock it loose without damaging the thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ALLMTB Posted October 24, 2014 Share oohhhhhhh, I need to follow this thread. I have the same fork and was also wondering how to get the lowers off, most of the guides, videos and pics online show a fork where the lower legs are not hollow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtypot Posted October 24, 2014 Share Is this with the lowers pushed all the way up, so that the stanchions are covered entirely? (fork in fully compressed state) If so, does this valve retract into the lowers when you extend the lowers to their normal position again? I'm almost certain that this valve is for the negative air chamber, as I just serviced my solo air Reba yesterday. But I don't know how to help you. Did you screw any bolts off of this valve? Yes, lowers fully compressed covering the stanchions. The valve does not retract - it seems fixed to the lower leg.It is the negative air valve. I struggled to get the lowers of a Reba. Turns out I just had to hit harder with the hammer http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/workshop-how-to-service-rockshox-reba-suspension-forks-23142/ I've looked at this manual, but it also shows slightly releasing a bolt/nut at the base before giving it a whack - which is why I'm hesitant to give it a proper knock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtypot Posted October 24, 2014 Share There should be a nut in there - yours is missing a part. I'd suggest you get hold of a new one before you strip the fork - you won't get it back together without that part. I've got the agents looking for one for you, I'll report back shortly. Where does the nut go? There is no thread right at the bottom for a nut to go onto.I have normal nuts that can fit on the thread, but I don't see how that helps apart from putting it on at the end to prevent damage when hitting it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
droo Posted October 24, 2014 Share Where does the nut go? There is no thread right at the bottom for a nut to go onto.I have normal nuts that can fit on the thread, but I don't see how that helps apart from putting it on at the end to prevent damage when hitting it. That's why you need the proper part - it's the only thing that'll fit onto that thread. It's a long tube with threads and wrench flats at the top. It's also made that way so you can actually get a deep wall socket over the valve to turn it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Fantana Posted October 24, 2014 Share Where does the nut go? There is no thread right at the bottom for a nut to go onto.I have normal nuts that can fit on the thread, but I don't see how that helps apart from putting it on at the end to prevent damage when hitting it. It is not a normal nut. It has a long shoulder which means that you do not need thread all the way to the bottom for the shoulder of the nut to engage the crush washer and the crush washer to push on the lowers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Fantana Posted October 24, 2014 Share Yes, lowers fully compressed covering the stanchions. The valve does not retract - it seems fixed to the lower leg.It is the negative air valve. I've looked at this manual, but it also shows slightly releasing a bolt/nut at the base before giving it a whack - which is why I'm hesitant to give it a proper knock It is actually the air spring shaft you are worried about. The valve is only the small part that screws into the end of the shaft. The air spring shaft is clamped to the lowers by the nut that Droo mentioned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtypot Posted October 24, 2014 Share Aah, I see.So I won't be able to just bang it apart then? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrJacques Posted October 24, 2014 Share Aah, I see.So I won't be able to just bang it apart then? Depends if you want to be able to put it back together again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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