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Brake Oil Leak or Faulty?


TrackGuy

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Posted

Why is it that the rear is not as easy as the front brake to bleed? or what is different between bleeding the front and back?

Front has shorter steeper hose, more vertical caliper so bubbles are released more easily.

 

Depending on hose routing and bike geo the rear caliper and hose can have high points that trap bubbles. To make bleeding the rear easier it can help to to tilt the bike up in a 'wheelie' position or remove the caliper/hose from its mountings and let it hang vertically....objective is to prevent pockets that can trap air.

Front and rear calipers are shaped differently to assist bleeding so don't just blindly tilt the bike to bleed it....only if you see obvious high points that could trap air.

Posted

Okay coolios, now I just have to get together some more pennies and save up again for this re-bleeding, or maybe CWC is cool enough and covers that for me :P

Ruan if CWC doesn't cover the re bleeding let me know. I have some mineral oil and a bleed kit then I'll help you sort it out as far as I can. Unfortunately I'm only available from next week Wednesday again

Posted

For starters, a longer hose ,it needs more fluid and also gets much more bubbles.

The earlier ones were easy to do because of the bleed method.

I thought as much. Last night I did the rear brake and once done, it was better but not like i know it should be. I suspected that there were some bubbles that did not come out, but was too late and too tired to do it again. Whats the best method to getting them all out or being certain that they are all out?

Posted

I thought as much. Last night I did the rear brake and once done, it was better but not like i know it should be. I suspected that there were some bubbles that did not come out, but was too late and too tired to do it again. Whats the best method to getting them all out or being certain that they are all out?

 

 

Front has shorter steeper hose, more vertical caliper so bubbles are released more easily.

 

Depending on hose routing and bike geo the rear caliper and hose can have high points that trap bubbles. To make bleeding the rear easier it can help to to tilt the bike up in a 'wheelie' position or remove the caliper/hose from its mountings and let it hang vertically....objective is to prevent pockets that can trap air.

Front and rear calipers are shaped differently to assist bleeding so don't just blindly tilt the bike to bleed it....only if you see obvious high points that could trap air.

that makes sense, thanks. 

Posted

Was skeptical about this no bleed hose shortening business but on some Slx's I had a while back I tried it on one lever and it worked perfectly.

 

Was some caveat though that made good sense and meant that if you followed the technique perfectly there was very little chance of introducing a bubble, think it was to disconnect the hose at the caliper side and shorten it at that end and then before reconnecting the hose to the calliper you squeeze the lever a tiny amount to push brake fluid to end of the hose and ensure no air was in the hose before connecting it up. I'm sure results may vary though.

Posted

I personally don't think you can expect CWC to "cover" the cost of the bleed. I think it's more a case of the brakes are sold semi-assembled and pre-bled in the sense it has some fluid inside and 97% ready to go.

 

You would in any case need to adjust the hose length to your bike specific routing and a quick bleed to make sure it's perfect.

 

Usually on these pre-bled kits you would adjust at the lever side, so you were just unlucky that that olive/hose was probably a crappy installation on the caliper side, possibly  or even over tightened. 

 

Just have your LBS or a Mate help you sort it out. Will cost you less time and hassle than wasting hours fighting with CWC on refund/etc.

Posted

Ruan if CWC doesn't cover the re bleeding let me know. I have some mineral oil and a bleed kit then I'll help you sort it out as far as I can. Unfortunately I'm only available from next week Wednesday again

 

Oh thanks a million, I will get back to you as soon as possible. But I might have a broshky who will be helping me out on this, seeing as he has scored quite a few things from me in the past, and I know you are going to read this :P haha

 

 

I personally don't think you can expect CWC to "cover" the cost of the bleed. I think it's more a case of the brakes are sold semi-assembled and pre-bled in the sense it has some fluid inside and 97% ready to go.

 

You would in any case need to adjust the hose length to your bike specific routing and a quick bleed to make sure it's perfect.

 

Usually on these pre-bled kits you would adjust at the lever side, so you were just unlucky that that olive/hose was probably a crappy installation on the caliper side, possibly  or even over tightened. 

 

Just have your LBS or a Mate help you sort it out. Will cost you less time and hassle than wasting hours fighting with CWC on refund/etc.

 

Me fight over something like this? Not my style at all, but I took up the wise words of informing them and clearing out the warranty and so on, don't want nothing like, "yeah, but you fixed them and now they are broken and that can be from your side etc." stuff like that happens. So just to keep my side clean I informed them about this, and we are currently busy discussing the issue. And I can promise you, no one is fighting about nothing.

 

And in no way do I expect them to cover the costs, but if you inform a shop about something like this and they offer to cover it because in theory it's not the ideal condition of the new product and they understand that, is really good word of mouth and so on.

 

Thanks for all the replies, you all are cool beans.

 

CWC asked me to take it to my LBS (I am far away from them) and have them check it out and see what is the issue here, I must then give them the report and we will see what happens. If it's as simple as re-bleeding, I mean pfft. Which it most likely will be.

Posted

Hey Ruan, for your next upgrade look out for a good deal on some Ice-Tech Rotors, will just be the cherry on the cake. Those calipers are actually based on the previous gen XT M775 series, the levers are based on the more current gen. It's really super crazy value for money, don't know why they are not specing those brakes on all new entry/mid level bikes. They are awesome. Happy riding.

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