Wyatt Earp Posted January 15, 2015 Posted January 15, 2015 Headset is one crutial area that come to mind straight away...if too tight you damage your bearings and possibly frame depending on the type of bearings. of too loose, well you will have movement of your frame/stem/fork in a vertical movement...etcTorque values crucial on a headset ?
Goblin Posted January 15, 2015 Posted January 15, 2015 I would also like to know if it is essential to have a torque wrench?I have overhauled superbike clutches, brakes, etc when I still rode them and had absolutely no problems. Never once used a torque wrench.squeeze too hard on a carbon thingymambob and say goodbye to carbon thingymabob.agree with you on the metal stuff though, but personally have destroyed a carbon stem by tightening too much.
hayleyearth Posted January 15, 2015 Posted January 15, 2015 Torque values crucial on a headset ? How did I know that it will be YOU to comment exactly that?!You are too predictable when it comes to replying too my posts. Key word you will see that I added is AREAAnd yes...you will damadge your headset if you do not pay attention to the torques you use in that area...I believe you can figure the rest out
Davey_Jones Posted January 15, 2015 Posted January 15, 2015 So i bought some lube for my bike chain last week. I asked the dude at the bike shop what to buy and he set me up with an extremem conditions one and said this should do the trick. I applied it. After the ride my chain was all black and goopey (technical term) and the cogs were all full of gunk. I this kinda how it goes or did i apply to much or was it the wrong kind of lube?
s14phoenix Posted January 15, 2015 Posted January 15, 2015 1. Ok so who agrees with me? Cleaning your cassette, chain and chainrings after every dirty ride and otherwise weekly or bi-weekly depending on use? - Clean, Lube chain - let soak/dry. 2. Cleaning stations after EVERY ride. - I even use a bit of float fluid or shock oil to keep the seals lubed a bit and wipe clean before I go ride...
s14phoenix Posted January 15, 2015 Posted January 15, 2015 So i bought some lube for my bike chain last week. I asked the dude at the bike shop what to buy and he set me up with an extremem conditions one and said this should do the trick. I applied it. After the ride my chain was all black and goopey (technical term) and the cogs were all full of gunk. I this kinda how it goes or did i apply to much or was it the wrong kind of lube? I use the white "squirt" so you can also see how much is being applied. Also let it soak in and dry... it is a dry lube...
Wil6 Posted January 15, 2015 Posted January 15, 2015 Its easier to just go and buy the Park Tools blue book...Or youtube, it's for free
Davey_Jones Posted January 15, 2015 Posted January 15, 2015 I use the white "squirt" so you can also see how much is being applied. Also let it soak in and dry... it is a dry lube...Oh is that what wet and dry lube means? i thought it meant for wet or dry weather conditions.
Wil6 Posted January 15, 2015 Posted January 15, 2015 squeeze too hard on a carbon thingymambob and say goodbye to carbon thingymabob.agree with you on the metal stuff though, but personally have destroyed a carbon stem by tightening too much.Never used a torque wrench in all my life with any of my bikes. Never had a problem or cracked a carbon frame. You must really over-tighten a bolt to crack a carbon frame or damage your headset.....
Wil6 Posted January 15, 2015 Posted January 15, 2015 I use the white "squirt" so you can also see how much is being applied. Also let it soak in and dry... it is a dry lube...I hate squirt for the simple reason it last about 70km in dry conditions and it gets so hard that it is a moerse job to get the hardened squirt of your chains and cassette. I use gear oil and converted two of my family members away from squirt to gear oil this holiday at the coast.
s14phoenix Posted January 15, 2015 Posted January 15, 2015 Oh is that what wet and dry lube means? i thought it meant for wet or dry weather conditions. Dry lubes form a "dry" waxy deposit that is less likely to wash off in wet conditions and also less dust goes to sit on it... hence I prefer it. I hate squirt for the simple reason it last about 70km in dry conditions and it gets so hard that it is a moerse job to get the hardened squirt of your chains and cassette. I use gear oil and converted two of my family members away from squirt to gear oil this holiday at the coast.Look I don't think this is a I am right you are wrong thread but I think you can have a what lube to use debate all day... Besides I clean my gears and chain very frequently and a bit of hot water and soap and the squirt just melts... Be very carefull of stuff that stays wet as a nice wet lube + dry dust = grinding paste and you WILL be replacing chainrings, Chains and cassettes very frequently...
Vangar Posted January 15, 2015 Posted January 15, 2015 So i bought some lube for my bike chain last week. I asked the dude at the bike shop what to buy and he set me up with an extremem conditions one and said this should do the trick. I applied it. After the ride my chain was all black and goopey (technical term) and the cogs were all full of gunk. I this kinda how it goes or did i apply to much or was it the wrong kind of lube? A wet lube is not wax based and is more "sticky" to use an easy term for dirt but doesnt wash off as easily in wet or harsh conditions. Now for the important part, you only need lube in the rollers, not on the outside of the chain. So depending on wet or dry lube, with wet I like to stick a drop on each roller and give it a sec or two to sink in, with dry I spin the chain slowly while spraying lightly and give it 2 or 3 rotations, now give it a few minutes to sink in nicely then wipe off ALL the lube on the outside of the chain. This should reduce the general gunk by a lot.
Brian Fantana Posted January 15, 2015 Posted January 15, 2015 Be very carefull of stuff that stays wet as a nice wet lube + dry dust = grinding paste and you WILL be replacing chainrings, Chains and cassettes very frequently... I have been using wet lubes only for the last 8 years, and my chains typically last about 1300-1500km (meaures between .75 and 1.0 on ParkTool Chain Checker), and typically use 3 chains per cassette. I evaluate my chainrings by visual inspection, they usually last as long as two cassettes. If you apply wet lube correctly (wipe off excess), the "grinding paste" you refer to does not form. Besides, in extreme muddy conditions, the mud will stick to your drivetrain irrespective which lube you use.
Davey_Jones Posted January 15, 2015 Posted January 15, 2015 cool thanks i understand it much better now. The bike shop didn't really explain much just said yeah buy this and just squirt it over the chain.
Wyatt Earp Posted January 15, 2015 Posted January 15, 2015 How did I know that it will be YOU to comment exactly that?!You are too predictable when it comes to replying too my posts. Key word you will see that I added is AREAAnd yes...you will damadge your headset if you do not pay attention to the torques you use in that area...I believe you can figure the rest out heahset area.jpgWell, when people make uninformed comments I am bound to comment.Don't stress sweetheart , you are not a target ,nor are you being targeted .Torque on a headset = mind blown .
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