Stem length - pain between shoulder blades

[Ironfist]

Hello Hubbers,

 

I need advice please. I know there might not be a single answer to my question but I did me research on a basic bike set up. I experiencing a constant pain between my shoulder blades when doing longer rides, 40 - 70km rides. I'm riding a medium ds with a 110mm stem. The saddle height, and distance from the handlebar has been set up but I'm getting this pain. I've read in an article in Ride that a too long or too short stem causes similar pain between the shoulder blades. I want to try a shorter stem but don't know which length, 90, 60 or 50mm, raised or straight or must I also try a raised handlebar with a shorter stem?

[Tiaan Jordaan]

I had the same problem, its mainly cause your core aint strong enough, so what you doing now is leaning on  your bars.

Increase your core strength so to keep your body upright and your arms only to steer the bike.

[Matt]

There will no doubt be some wide ranging views on the topic, but if possible visit a bike fit specialist to assess what is causing this.

Although based in Joburg so not ideal for you to visit in person, Cycle Fit wrote some articles on Handlebar choice (incorporating reach & stem length) a little while ago which may help you narrow down the issue:

Bike fitting: Handlebar choice >

https://www.bikehub.co.za/features/_/articles/training-nutrition/bike-fitting-handlebar-choice-r1370?source=related
 

Bike fitting: Handlebar choice - Details Part 1 >

https://www.bikehub.co.za/features/_/articles/training-nutrition/bike-fitting-handlebar-choice-details-part-1-r1402
 

Bike fitting: Handlebar choice - Details Part 2 >

https://www.bikehub.co.za/features/_/articles/training-nutrition/bike-fitting-handlebar-choice-details-part-2-r1421?source=related

 

[rudi-h]

with MTB stem length is not a bike fit consideration, but a bike handling consideration.  Short stems and wide bars improve handling ability where long stems improve stability.

 

If you need a 40mm stem on a marathon bike, your frame size is likely wrong, and likewise if you have a 110mm stem on a trail bike, your frame size is also wrong.

 

what I can say is that no MTB should have a 110mm stem, so cut it down to at least 70mm or 80mm for a start.  wider medium riser bars also often help with a more comfortable fit and looks rad too, but maybe get a bike fitment to check before you throw R1.5k at a bar and stem.

[Ironfist]

with MTB stem length is not a bike fit consideration, but a bike handling consideration.  Short stems and wide bars improve handling ability where long stems improve stability.

 

If you need a 40mm stem on a marathon bike, your frame size is likely wrong, and likewise if you have a 110mm stem on a trail bike, your frame size is also wrong.

 

what I can say is that no MTB should have a 110mm stem, so cut it down to at least 70mm or 80mm for a start.  wider medium riser bars also often help with a more comfortable fit and looks rad too, but maybe get a bike fitment to check before you throw R1.5k at a bar and stem.

Thanks Rudi-h

[Ironfist]

Wow thank you very much. Awesum article Admin

[Slowbee]

with MTB stem length is not a bike fit consideration, but a bike handling consideration.  Short stems and wide bars improve handling ability where long stems improve stability.

 

If you need a 40mm stem on a marathon bike, your frame size is likely wrong, and likewise if you have a 110mm stem on a trail bike, your frame size is also wrong.

 

what I can say is that no MTB should have a 110mm stem, so cut it down to at least 70mm or 80mm for a start.  wider medium riser bars also often help with a more comfortable fit and looks rad too, but maybe get a bike fitment to check before you throw R1.5k at a bar and stem.

why no longer than 110 ?

 

as we are finding out (trying to get a decent bike fit), do you then not start to run into frame sizing problems?

 

you become to small for a large, but to big for a medium?

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

why no longer than 110 ?

 

as we are finding out (trying to get a decent bike fit), do you then not start to run into frame sizing problems?

 

you become to small for a large, but to big for a medium?

no. You should not even go near 110 on an MTB. If you do, you are DEFINITELY on the wrong size bike. Size your bike on the FRAME size, with a stem length between 35 & 70mm (maybe 80mm on a dedicated marathon machine, but even then no) depending on your particular circumstances and needs. That 35mm variance is often more than the difference in ETT lengths between different size frames, and so allows plenty variance when determining setup and desired use etc. 

 

110mm on an MTB is a recipe for disaster. Weight far too forward, skittish handling on the rough stuff, a feeling of going OTB at the slightest obstacle, hindered weight positioning ability... the list goes on.

[Guest Lancesball]

I had the same problem, its mainly cause your core aint strong enough, so what you doing now is leaning on  your bars.

Increase your core strength so to keep your body upright and your arms only to steer the bike.

 

Hahahah BS.

 

Upper pain is a typical symptom of your reach being to long. 

Lower back pain being to short.

 

 

[Guest Lancesball]

no. You should not even go near 110 on an MTB. If you do, you are DEFINITELY on the wrong size bike. Size your bike on the FRAME size, with a stem length between 35 & 70mm (maybe 80mm on a dedicated marathon machine, but even then no) depending on your particular circumstances and needs. That 35mm variance is often more than the difference in ETT lengths between different size frames, and so allows plenty variance when determining setup and desired use etc. 

 

110mm on an MTB is a recipe for disaster. Weight far too forward, skittish handling on the rough stuff, a feeling of going OTB at the slightest obstacle, hindered weight positioning ability... the list goes on.

 

Many riders run a 110 on a MTB - the hub is priceless today in terms of knowledge.

Anyone else got a stand up show in their spare time?

[Ironfist]

no. You should not even go near 110 on an MTB. If you do, you are DEFINITELY on the wrong size bike. Size your bike on the FRAME size, with a stem length between 35 & 70mm (maybe 80mm on a dedicated marathon machine, but even then no) depending on your particular circumstances and needs. That 35mm variance is often more than the difference in ETT lengths between different size frames, and so allows plenty variance when determining setup and desired use etc. 

 

110mm on an MTB is a recipe for disaster. Weight far too forward, skittish handling on the rough stuff, a feeling of going OTB at the slightest obstacle, hindered weight positioning ability... the list goes on.

I don't think there's a problem with the size of the bike. I'm 1.76 and the medium size frame feels comfortable. I bought the bike second hand and the 110mm stem was fitted on the bike. It is a Scott Spark 940 with a 600mm Syncros handle bar and Fly Ride 110mm stem. Which is better? A 35deg stem  or straight one?

http://cyclosport.co.za/14629-large_default/ravx---tempo-hi-rider-stem---318mm---35-deg.jpghttp://cyclosport.co.za/8024-large_default/ryder---alloy-stem-60mm-6d-black.jpg

[Ironfist]

I need to add, I just checked my previous bike had  a 80mm stem so I think the 110mm might be the issue then.

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

Many riders run a 110 on a MTB - the hub is priceless today in terms of knowledge.

Anyone else got a stand up show in their spare time?

As a result of fit techniques carried over from road cycling and never corrected, yes. Doesn't mean it's right. Road fit and mtb fit are drastically different when it comes to bar and stem sizing as well as frame sizing.

 

Care to yell us why you're more "qualified" than many manufacturers now embracing more modern geometry, NOT based on historical norms?

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

I don't think there's a problem with the size of the bike. I'm 1.76 and the medium size frame feels comfortable. I bought the bike second hand and the 110mm stem was fitted on the bike. It is a Scott Spark 940 with a 600mm Syncros handle bar and Fly Ride 110mm stem. Which is better? A 35deg stem or straight one?

http://cyclosport.co.za/14629-large_default/ravx---tempo-hi-rider-stem---318mm---35-deg.jpghttp://cyclosport.co.za/8024-large_default/ryder---alloy-stem-60mm-6d-black.jpg

Okay firstly that bar is FAR too narrow unless you're 10 years old.

 

I'd immediately suggest you get on to Rapide components website and get their 780mm bar (R280) and a shorter stem from kcnc (250 - 300 or so) in the region of 60mm. From there you can cut the bars to suit once you've found your ideal width by moving your grips around and testing positioning.

 

At 176 you're about right for a medium frame but could also go large with an even shorter stem. Depending on geometry of course

 

As for stem rise... depends where you want your bars to be. But 35deg is very high rise....

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

I must add... you may find that the pain in the shoulders is also as a result of tensing up due to your bars being too narrow and stem too long (weight too far forward and hands too close together causing jittery handling and a feeling of going over the bars at every turn) which causes you to tense up, which could also contribute to the pain.

[Slowbee]

so what you saying, is if her wrists are are bent out (and not straight in line with the arms)  to accommodate a "short" reach, we should have gone for a large and not a medium frame size (with 110mm stem) despite what *bikefit* said?