Marzocchi 350R service

[Odinson]

Just a quick question for y'all.

 

I have a Marzo 350R that is due for a service - it's still running like a dream, but it's been a few months since I've got it.

 

What would a general service entail and what would you need?

 

I'd like to do it myself, but if I'm going to botch it, I'll rather have a pro do it.

[BaGearA]

Probably just a basic lower leg service with some new oil,dust wipes and foam rings + a good clean.

 

This should be more than enough

[CdT85]

Probably just a basic lower leg service with some new oil,dust wipes and foam rings + a good clean.

 

This should be more than enough

 

What BaGearA said. I moslty just inspect my seals for wear (Seeing they are hard to find). On my Dirt Jam and Drop-Off I just replace the oil regularly and give  the lowers a good clean, making sure the seals are still good, and inspecting the sanctions for any sign of wear.

 

Droo and David Marshall are the people to speak to about spares for Marzocchi. Just ordered original wipers from my 66RCV from Dave, and Enduro Oil Seals from Droo.

 

Hope this helps

[CdT85]

Just for reference:

 

http://www.marzocchi.com/Template/contenuto.asp?idC=1561&IdFolder=777

 

Not sure what your year model is

[Odinson]

Just for reference:

 

http://www.marzocchi.com/Template/contenuto.asp?idC=1561&IdFolder=777

 

Not sure what your year model is

 

Thanks.

 

It's a 2015.

[popcorn_skollie]

Sourcing seal kits should be pretty easy from Asgard.

Down here in the underworld. They're harder to come by than infinity stones.   

 

The 350's (R, CR and NCR) all use the same 35mm kit.

But I'm not sure if they are the same as the older 35mm kits used for the shiver, 66, and 888.

You'll have to check. You can get oem ones from CRC. The product page should answer compatibly questions posted by users. or shop around for SKF or Enduro ones.

 

Youtube and google to help with the process. 

this blog is also pretty useful. 

 

I'd love to learn these things. But I usually just go to droo.

If you do decide to crack it open. Post your process and pics in here.

Good luck.

[droo]

Some of the newer Marzos shipped SKF seals, which may not last as long as the older ones. When you drop the lowers, just see if there's any contamination under the lips - if there is you'll have to replace.

 

I'm also not sure of the compatibility of the older seals with the newer forks, but I'd guess they would still work. I haven't got stock at the moment, but you can get from CRC.

 

Lowers service instructions can be found here.

[Odinson]

Okay, guys. So I opened up my 350 last night, brimming with confidence after watching a few Marzo service videos. Long story short, thing didn't turn out as planned.

 

When I opened up the left side and pulled out the coil, I saw this:

 

 

I don't know whether that is a plastic sleeve that has become brittle or whether it is grease. The oil in the leg was gunky and full of this broken stuff. I drained the oil and cleaned out all the gunk.

 

After cleaning everything and in the process of reinstalling the CSU into the lowers, I managed to pop open the DBC. Fekkin' oil everywhere!

 

Now, does anyone have any idea on how to bleed the DBC. I can't find anything in the interwebs. This is the guy that I now need to sort out.

 

 

 

[CdT85]

Okay, guys. So I opened up my 350 last night, brimming with confidence after watching a few Marzo service videos. Long story short, thing didn't turn out as planned.

 

When I opened up the left side and pulled out the coil, I saw this:

 

untitled.png

 

I don't know whether that is a plastic sleeve that has become brittle or whether it is grease. The oil in the leg was gunky and full of this broken stuff. I drained the oil and cleaned out all the gunk.

 

After cleaning everything and in the process of reinstalling the CSU into the lowers, I managed to pop open the DBC. Fekkin' oil everywhere!

 

Now, does anyone have any idea on how to bleed the DBC. I can't find anything in the interwebs. This is the guy that I now need to sort out.

 

Capture.PNG

 

My gut tells me to just top up the oil, in stages and pumping the shock, with the top cap installed until the damper is primed?

Looks very similar to my fox float damper, And you just pour in the oil in the fox from the top cap side, and bob's your uncle.

 

Droo? Am I blowing bubbles here?

[droo]

The plastic stuff is there to stop the spring rattling around in the stanchion. 3 pieces of heatshrink will do the same thing, about 40-50mm long, shrunk on at equal intervals along the spring.

 

As for the damper, I'd have to see it. There should be some sort of a bleed plug at the top to push the bubbles out. If you get stuck, PM me some photos.

[Odinson]

Thanks Otero and Droo.

 

@Otero, think that could work. Will fiddle some more tonight.

 

@Droo, is the heatshrink an absolute necessity? Going to be a pain in the arse to go and find that too. I'll PM some pics. I found this video, but it's not the same unit, so not sure how useful it is.

 

https://youtu.be/bDP6X4nmp9c

 

It's a damn oily mess working on one of these forks as a novice home mechanic.

Edited October 14, 2016 by Odinson

[CdT85]

Thanks Otero and Droo.

 

@Otero, think that could work. Will fiddle some more tonight.

 

@Droo, is the heatshrink an absolute necessity? Going to be a pain in the arse to go and find that too. I'll PM some pics. I found this video, but it's not the same unit, so not sure how useful it is.

 

https://youtu.be/bDP6X4nmp9c

 

It's a damn oily mess working on one of these forks as a novice home mechanic.

 

Heat shrink is easy to source. Builder Warhouse will ave what you need. Else most electrical supply shops will have. Then steal your lady's hair dryer to shrink it 

 

Edit:

Looking at the video...don't follow my advise on priming it. the steps look very self explanitory on the video

Edited October 14, 2016 by Otero

[Odinson]

The plastic stuff is there to stop the spring rattling around in the stanchion. 3 pieces of heatshrink will do the same thing, about 40-50mm long, shrunk on at equal intervals along the spring.

 

As for the damper, I'd have to see it. There should be some sort of a bleed plug at the top to push the bubbles out. If you get stuck, PM me some photos.

 

Inside the tapered tube near the top there is a plastic plug which looks like it presses against the top cap and spring when installed. There was also some oil on top of it. I assume that needs to be spaced correctly along the tube when installed.  

[droo]

It's a damn oily mess working on one of these forks as a novice home mechanic.

 

It's a flippen oily mess full stop. Large buckets under your bike stand and bench vice help, but it's still messy.

[Odinson]

It's a flippen oily mess full stop. Large buckets under your bike stand and bench vice help, but it's still messy.

 

I received many a dissaproving looks from the wife.     

[Odinson]

Quick update.

 

Spent the better part of Friday night servicing the fork and it seems to be working like a charm now. The stiction is gone and the fork moves into its travel a lot easier. Very nice and smooth now. Was still a bloody oily mess, but I was a bit better prepared this time round.

 

As for the DBC cartridge, I managed to sort that. The process is exactly the same as in that video, all though it's two different units.

 

Having gone through this process, it's actually clear that the fork is actually dead simple to service. It just takes some research, planning and a lot of patience.

 

Maybe in Jan I'll replace the seals. Will see how that goes.