Need assistance choosing a road bike

[Grogs]

On the sizing - rather go down a size than up one - it's easier to adjust overall sizing by changing components (e.g. longer stem, bigger drop handlebars) to make the bike fit better (by making it feel bigger) than it is to reduce the size of the frame.

[Grogs]

On the sizing - rather go down a size than up one - it's easier to adjust overall sizing by changing components (e.g. longer stem, bigger drop handlebars) to make the bike fit better (by making it feel bigger) than it is to reduce the size of the frame.

 

But I suppose the same could be said the other way around (i.e. shorter stem, smaller drop handlebars).

[Grogs]

But I suppose the same could be said the other way around (i.e. shorter stem, smaller drop handlebars).

 

Arguing with myself is not a good sign.

[devocean]

I always thought it's better to go with a smaller frame size

[Sitting@89]

My logic says you can easily achieve the border line limit between size 51 vs 52 by saddle adjustment shorter stem narrower bars etc, going a size up when the saddle is on upper limit etc is almost impossible (based solely on my personal experience, spending nearly three months to get my bike size and setup perfect)

[madbradd]

Sizing always gets me. My XL Giant TCR is a 58.5cm, but If I was riding a 58cm Trek I'd feel like I was on a clown bike! I really wish everyone would use the S, M, L, XL scale as the number indicates the size for that specific geometry, nothing else. Or that people would use top tube length for indicating size rather than seat tube.

 

So to the OP - most seat posts will give you between 15cm and 20cm adjustability. (Effective) top tube length is more important. This can only be compensated for by changing the stem.

 

Generally:

Longer stem = less responsive handling (less twitchy on road bike can be better as you will have more confidence at higher speeds)

Shorter stem = more responsive handling (better for MTB when coupled with wide handle bars)

[Kalahari Vegmot]

With sizing, rather go 1 or 2 cm smaller than the 'perfect' size, because, as above, you don't want a short stem on a road bike because it gives a very twitchy feel. Also, for your ideal saddle fore aft position, it can sometimes be impossible to get right with a frame that's too big-there's only so much adjustability-but you can source a seatpost with some layback if need be.

A lot of pro's also choose smaller frame sizes-albeit for stiffness-also, lance is an exception to this rule; but that's a story for a whole different time...

 

As for getting a good bike in that price bracket, OLX would be the place too look, and for slightly older models as well. There are a lot of bikes going for a steal there, because a lot of times the guys don't know what they've got-they will probably need a R600 service though. There have been great deals on the hub as well, but here you're dealing with a lot of clued-up people...

 

Doing a quick scan, here's what I'd buy for 5k:

https://www.olx.co.za/m/ad/trek-road-bikesmall-ID166RGc.html?code=0df002ad5f

-2k with a little bit negotiating

 

And this: https://www.bikehub.co.za/classifieds/223060-dura-ace-7800-groupset-10sp/

 

That leaves you R500 over budget, but you'll have a GREAT entry-level bike. Note that you'll want to do a wheel upgrade at a later stage as well.

 

My 2c, take it or leave it.

 

All the best though, it's one heck of an amazing sport!

[Dullscalpel]

My Fiance got a brand new Giant SCR for that.

 

@ the OP. You can get deals at that price point be patient and don't allow yourself to get screwed. You can get a perfectly good bike for 5k There are deals to be had if you keep your eyes open. Id let you have my Media 903 for 5k but it's a 54.

Thanks, I needed to hear that. Just super keen to get started. I will keep an eye out. This thread has given me loads of information so I feel a bit more confident when I look for stuff

[Dullscalpel]

Sizing always gets me. My XL Giant TCR is a 58.5cm, but If I was riding a 58cm Trek I'd feel like I was on a clown bike! I really wish everyone would use the S, M, L, XL scale as the number indicates the size for that specific geometry, nothing else. Or that people would use top tube length for indicating size rather than seat tube.

 

So to the OP - most seat posts will give you between 15cm and 20cm adjustability. (Effective) top tube length is more important. This can only be compensated for by changing the stem.

 

Generally:

Longer stem = less responsive handling (less twitchy on road bike can be better as you will have more confidence at higher speeds)

Shorter stem = more responsive handling (better for MTB when coupled with wide handle bars)

Thanks for this information. I will keep it in mind. Didn't know about the stem thing

[Dullscalpel]

Arguing with myself is not a good sign.

Lol! I argue with myself all the time!

[Dullscalpel]

This looks like a decent option, with good level components! For the amount you have in budget you need to recognise that you will be looking towards a more entry level type bike than something that is weight conscious with higher end parts on. It will however stand you in great stead for getting into the riding scene and doing the odd race on. It will also double up as a useful second bike that can be converted into a commuter or single speed or other variant down the line when you have decided you are ready for an upgrade and the sport floats your boat! Welcome btw!

 

https://www.bikehub.co.za/classifieds/221300-merida-road-904-r5500-neg/

Thanks so much for this. I appreciate the information. Will have a look

[Forbsie]

private message sent  

[Dullscalpel]

Hey guys! Just an update by pure luck, I managed to find sn rc 3000 in good condition. Showed it to my brother-in-law (who has done some cycling) and he is happy with it. I just need to find out how much it will cost to make the gears lighter. Apparently, with the current gear set, I will struggle with hills. Unfortunately, the bike didn't come with much, so I will just need to get a few pieces still. The bike rides like a charm. It was awesome getting on (once the seat was adjusted) and going for a quick ride

[Kalahari Vegmot]

On the cassette topic, ride whatever the bike comes with, and if you struggle, take a dose of rule #5 and pedal harder!

 

While my 11-23 isn't the easiest up hills, it really just takes a bit of training...

[billygoat0523]

On the cassette topic, ride whatever the bike comes with, and if you struggle, take a dose of rule #5 and pedal harder!

 

While my 11-23 isn't the easiest up hills, it really just takes a bit of training...

bit of training...  i disagree.

 

there's only so much strain you want to put on your legs, especially as a new cyclist.  i've seen that in a few races.  you wanna make sure you cross that line without cramps.  many races like to throw a big hill at you at the beginning and at the end.  you can see large groups splitting up when rolling hills start, i'd rather stick to the group that goes faster or if you can't, at least be in a group than go solo.

[Kalahari Vegmot]

bit of training...  i disagree.

 

there's only so much strain you want to put on your legs, especially as a new cyclist.  i've seen that in a few races.  you wanna make sure you cross that line without cramps.  many races like to throw a big hill at you at the beginning and at the end.  you can see large groups splitting up when rolling hills start, i'd rather stick to the group that goes faster or if you can't, at least be in a group than go solo.

I think you might have a point there...

I like my cadence  on the lower side, but not everybody does.

 

And I've also never really understood the cramp thing, just never had any cramps during races, don't know why, but I'm not complaining...