The green death strikes again...

[123qwer]

Ooh I know the stuff you mean.

[Johan Bornman]

JB: any specific DRC rim you would recommend for a 90kg XC mountain biker who does hammer the bike a bit on the down hills?
Looks like DRC MT17 or MT18 will work' date=' but they also do a DH18 which is disc specific and lighter...

[/quote']

 

The best MTB rim in the DRC stable is the MT 17. This is because it is a double-eyeletted (actually socketed, but then I get the "huh?" look) rim. That fact that it is machined for rim brakes doesn't matter, those in the know live with riding rim-brake rims even through they have disk brakes.

 

The others are either single eyeletted or have zero eyelets.

 

 

[mountain_lion]

 

Thanks JB

 

According to http://www.drc.it/mounta.htm you get both the MT17 & MT18 in double and single eyelet, so I will make sure that I get the double eyelet. I was just wondering if there was any benefit in getting the heavier MT18, which I guess will be slightly "stronger".

But if the MT17 is good enough, then that will do for me.

 

 

mountain_lion2008-06-18 00:46:44

[Reg Lizard]

Damn here you guys are going on about tubes or no tubes, I am still contemplating whether to ride with or without joks

[Tromps]

So there I was just riding along' date=' going down hill not too fast in Jonkershoek , jumped over a rut in the road and landed on a spot covered in the green slime of death...

I tried my best and almost recovered it, but in the end it was a choice: Either I go into the embankment, or the bike goes into the embankment and I roll down the road. End result: I have one very small scratch from rolling down the road. Problem is, I only managed to launch my 90kg off the bike on impact.
Front wheel did not like that and is a total write off. Had to walk back to the gate. Fork should be OK.

I had non-tubeless Alex rims with Stans tubeless conversion on my Giant Anthem 2. Not 100% sure, but think the hubs are Shimano LX. Brakes are Juicy 3 disks (standard 2007 anthem spec).
I am not a race snake, so don't need the very best or absolute lightest and bling is not my thing. Durability and affordability counts much more in my book.

So the question is what do I replace with?

1. New standard rim built on original hub + Stans kit.

2. New tubeless rim on original hub

3. New tubeless front wheel

4. Complete new tubeless wheel set.

What would you do?

LBS have the follwong tubeless options in stock:

Mavic 819 tubeless rim @ R1085 (excluding spokes and build)

Cervino A class tubless wheel set  @ R3415.

Shimano XT tubeless wheel set @ R4300.

Any comments on these?
If going for the full new set, is the XT set that much better than the A class?

[/quote']

 

I too was looking in to the XT Tubeless wheelset, but for that price, I excpeted sealed hubs. And they not. Not willing to pay that for the same price.

 

A Class has also made a rim that is tubeless, sealed hubs with dubble budded spokes. They are retailing at about R2800. Way way better!

[MintSauce]

 

So not sure if I need to "upgrade" the hub.

 

 

www.chrisking.com

 

You can thank me later

 

 

 

 

 

[mountain_lion]

As far as I could establish, the 2007 Giant Anthem 2 was supplied with Formula hubs, but I am not sure which model.

 

I looked at the new XT hubs, but they have changed the brake rotor mounting from bolt on to lock ring, so I will need to replace the brake rotor as well to use them.

 

Minty, I am sure Chris King hubs are very good, but as I said from the start, bling is not my thing and then there is the price...

 

I have not had problems with the Formula hubs. Perhaps not sealed as well as others, but they are plain and simple to maintain. Just open up and clean. Repack with same or new ball bearings.

 

I will use a DRC MT17 rim on my existing Formula hub.

 

 

[Johan Bornman]

Thanks JB

According to http://www.drc.it/mounta.htm you get both the MT17 & MT18 in double and single eyelet' date=' so I will make sure that I get the double eyelet. I was just wondering if there was any benefit in getting the heavier MT18, which I guess will be slightly "stronger".
But if the MT17 is good enough, then that will do for me.

[/quote']

 

My information has it that the MT 18 is only available in single eyelet. The local supplier only stocks single eyelet or as DRC so quantly calls it "single Inox for tyre." I wish they'd hire someone who speaks English to do their brochures and website. That little phrase translates to Single Stainless for Tyre. I've come to learn it means single eyelet.

 

Anyway, I have had good experience with both the MT 17 and 18, with guys weighing well into the 100 kgs. My two best customers with MT 18s live in Sabie and are confirmed bike bums. They ride all day and used to trash wheels by the dozen until I sorted them out with MT 17 and 18 rims built with standard spokes on their existing Formula hubs.

 

Go with MT-17s. You can have them in any colour as long as it's black.

 

 

[Johan Bornman]

[quote name=Tromps

 

I too was looking in to the XT Tubeless wheelset' date=' but for that price, I excpeted sealed hubs. And they not. Not willing to pay that for the same price.

 

A Class has also made a rim that is tubeless, sealed hubs with dubble budded spokes. They are retailing at about R2800. Way way better!

[/quote]

 

What do you mean by "sealed hub". And what the hell is a dubble budded spoke?

 

The topic of "Sealed hubs" have come up often and I've commented on it more than once. Do a search, it'll open your eyes about things you should read about in bicycling magazines but won't find in there.

 

And by the way, Shimano hubs have two seals on each side: One rubber wiper seal and one labyrinth seal.

[AndreZA]

JB, do they have the same problem with the MTB rims as with the road rims regarding size? I struggled to get my Conti tyres over the DRC ST17 rims but could easy fit them on any other rim. It really felt like they were bigger then the other rims.

 

 

[Johan Bornman]

As far as I could establish' date=' the 2007 Giant Anthem 2 was supplied with Formula hubs, but I am not sure which model.

I looked at the new XT hubs, but they have changed the brake rotor mounting from bolt on to lock ring, so I will need to replace the brake rotor as well to use them.

Minty, I am sure Chris King hubs are very good, but as I said from the start, bling is not my thing and then there is the price...
 
I have not had problems with the Formula hubs. Perhaps not sealed as well as others, but they are plain and simple to maintain. Just open up and clean. Repack with same or new ball bearings.

I will use a DRC MT17 rim on my existing Formula hub.

[/quote']

 

You can buy an adapter so that you can use your old rotors on new hubs. Well worth it.

 

There is nothing inherently better in a Chris King hub than any other quality hub. Chris King made a name by being one of the first to use cartridge bearings in his hubs. He has a different pawl mechanism in there but again, it isn't inherently better than other pawls used by Shimano and Campag. In fact, it comes with its own problems.

 

There is nothing wrong with a Formula hub. Formula makes both cup-and-cone and cartridge bearing hubs and both are fine. They're sealed just as well as any other bearing can be sealed and you won't get more or less water ingression than with a CK, Shimano or Joytech hub.

 

The mechanism of preventing water ingression in bicycle hubs is not one that's well understood by cyclists who fall for monikers such as "sealed hub". No hub is submersible, they're at best splash-proof.

 

 

[mountain_lion]

 

 

You can buy an adapter so that you can use your old rotors on new hubs. Well worth it.

 

 

Johan, are you saying that the adapter is well worth it if you go for the new XT hub, or are you saying it is worth it to upgrade from the Formula cup & cone hub to the XT hub?

 

If it was the rear hub, I would definitely have gone for an upgrade, but front I think the Formula will do fine.

 

 

[Johan Bornman]

JB' date=' do they have the same problem with the MTB rims as with the road rims regarding size? I struggled to get my Conti tyres over the DRC ST17 rims but could easy fit them on any other rim. It really felt like they were bigger then the other rims.

 

 

[/quote']

 

Can't say I've ever noticed any such issues. None of my customers have complained either, perhaps they're just too polite.

[HomerSimpson]

ML, maybe you should shop around on the "alternative" marketplace...

 

According to the guys at my local LBS (same as yours), some guy bought a brand new XT wheelset a few weeks ago, and then left the front wheel outside his car when he packed his bike after a ride....drove off and only discovered the wheel was missing when he got home.

 

And I need to know..where was the dreaded green snot?  Normally turns up in areas that has a low bike traffic.

[Johan Bornman]

 

You can buy an adapter so that you can use your old rotors on new hubs. Well worth it.

 

Johan' date=' are you saying that the adapter is well worth it if you go for the new XT hub, or are you saying it is worth it to upgrade from the Formula cup & cone hub to the XT hub?

If it was the rear hub, I would definitely have gone for an upgrade, but front I think the Formula will do fine.

[/quote']

 

I'm saying an adapter is a good option to mate two incompatible parts. I didn't really look at the underlying reason for  having incompatible parts so I'm not making a hub judgement.

 

 

 

[MintSauce]

 

 

There is nothing inherently better in a Chris King hub than any other quality hub. Chris King made a name by being one of the first to use cartridge bearings in his hubs. He has a different pawl mechanism in there but again' date=' it isn't inherently better than other pawls used by Shimano and Campag. In fact, it comes with its own problems.

[/quote']

 

 

Please elaborate here. I ask because the last time we discussed the internals of Chris King hubs you clearly didn't have any idea how they worked...?

 

And again, they don't use a pawl mechanism at all. Perhaps I need to post that explosion diagram of the internals for you again...?