Rockshox Charger 1 vs 2

[Alouette3]

I run a 2016 Pike 140mm RC on my Jeffsy with the original Charger 1 damper. I've got my hands on an updated Charger 2 RCT 3 damper, which had a leaking adjuster knob which I managed to successfully repair.

For those knowledgeable ones, is it worth my while swapping out my Charger 1 with the updated Charger 2 (not 2.1)? Would just need the adjuster knobs.

Some perks - Charger 1 you can get a full rebuild kit for, including bladder, the Charger 2 has Lockout etc... not that I would use it.

Otherwise I may just flog the Charger 2

Edited July 2, 2021 by Alouette3

[DieselnDust]

There are a few guys who are showing successful bodge repairs to charge 2 and 2.1 bladders.

My philosophy is if it ain't broke don't fix it. Maybe hang onto the Charger 2 as a spare and learn more about what you can do to keep it running from the interwebs

[BaGearA]

Stay with that charger 1 as long as you can the reliability of it far outweighs the performance benifits of the charger 2 imo 

[Alouette3]

Wouldn't call this a bodge repair, it was simply a u-cup seal that was complete toast. Replaced it with a quad ring and a small o-ring as a spacer. Been running those quad rings on various Reverb dropper post pistons with great success for a while now.

Charger 1 I've done a rebuild myself about a year ago and have the bleed tools etc

[Alouette3]

2 minutes ago, BaGearA said:

Stay with that charger 1 as long as you can the reliability of it far outweighs the performance benifits of the charger 2 imo 

This is what I've heard and why I'm hesitant to just do the swap.

[DieselnDust]

1 hour ago, Alouette3 said:

This is what I've heard and why I'm hesitant to just do the swap.

Which is why I suggest you first learn more about the Charger 2 before fitting it. You appear adept at your own maintenance so having all you need handy would be a happy place.

Charger 2 is definitely an upgrade performance wise but a more difficult to maintain cost effectively

[Bos]

So not sure what you weigh, and what level you ride at, but there are pro's and cons to both. Obviously personal preference would render some of these pointless or not.

Pros C1:  Replacement bladders are commercially available. More tunable platform (shim stack tuning)

Cons C1: (RC) Firm stock tune, overdamped for most. Dated looks?

then

Pros C2 RTC: Slightly easier to service?(need the kit) Stock damper tune is softer & pretty perfect for me (70kg). Lockout options. Looks nicer.

Cons C2 RTC: Replacement bladders are not widely commercially available (although shockcraft NZ seems to have them. You will however have to see if they will sell you one) Non tunable platform (shim stack tuning)

 

I don't know of a lot of charger bladders that blew up (C1 or C2) unless people tinkered with them. I got the newer 2019 one when my old bike was stolen and after initially perhaps riding it to firm (air pressure) and blaming it on the damper, I adapted to settings very close to the recommended and removed all volume spacers I have now been on it without wanting to touch the settings for a year.(D3 air spring) I just dial in some LSC when I ride smoother bikepark (Hellsend) tipe tracks, and when I ride dirtroads I take the LSC off for the suppleness on top. Jonkers, somewhere in between. I would always pick underdamped over overdamped, as the airspring makes waaaaay more difference. In my opinion, most folks never touch their HSC unless they race. Anyway, thats off the topic.

I don't know bru. I do use my lockout when climbing out the saddle on smooth roads, but both forks have that. The trail option is really not worth the effort they put in to try get there. Tough call bru, Luckly its not mine!

[droo]

Bladders and u cup seals are available, I pretty much always have stock. Not official RS parts, but they do the job.

 

Tuneability is good as well, you just need to know how to take them apart. Reassembly can be a pig though, depending on which one you have.

 

Ride them both and see what you think. Adjusters should be available, you'll just need to tell me which version you have.

[Alouette3]

1 hour ago, droo said:

Ride them both and see what you think.

Will probably do this.

Just done the first ride on my wider rims, so I'll swap the damper over after I've done a couple more rides to make sure I'm isolating  the changes, an they not contributed to the wheels.

[Alouette3]

1 hour ago, droo said:

Bladders and u cup seals are available, I pretty much always have stock. Not official RS parts, but they do the job.

Good to know, thanks! Only fitted the quad ring as I happened to have the right size in stock.

 

2 hours ago, droo said:

Adjusters should be available, you'll just need to tell me which version you have.

 

[DieselnDust]

On 7/2/2021 at 3:16 PM, droo said:

Bladders and u cup seals are available, I pretty much always have stock. Not official RS parts, but they do the job.

 

Tuneability is good as well, you just need to know how to take them apart. Reassembly can be a pig though, depending on which one you have.

 

Ride them both and see what you think. Adjusters should be available, you'll just need to tell me which version you have.

Droo, what in your experience is the main cause of the bladder failures you see? (if any) I can't think of much other than the damper drawing oil into the chamber from the lower leg (after it is overfilled) so the chamber is then overfilled and ruptures the baldder as it expands against the inside of a dirt fork leg or dirt getting from the top due to high pressure washing or too much wet weather riding without removing the top cap to clean out?

it is a rubber part so at some point it will break but one doesn't hear of CV joint boots breakings much these days even though its a part that experiences high temp and often experiences high speed impacts with stones, road dirt, glass etc.

The damper is so easy to service anyway theres no reason why it can't be serviced regularly at the required service intervals

[droo]

5 minutes ago, DieselnDust said:

Droo, what in your experience is the main cause of the bladder failures you see? (if any) I can't think of much other than the damper drawing oil into the chamber from the lower leg (after it is overfilled) so the chamber is then overfilled and ruptures the baldder as it expands against the inside of a dirt fork leg or dirt getting from the top due to high pressure washing or too much wet weather riding without removing the top cap to clean out?

it is a rubber part so at some point it will break but one doesn't hear of CV joint boots breakings much these days even though its a part that experiences high temp and often experiences high speed impacts with stones, road dirt, glass etc.

The damper is so easy to service anyway theres no reason why it can't be serviced regularly at the required service intervals

Service it often and it'll be fine. The reason the bladders pop is oil ingestion and aeration, and it usually happens on Sids and Rebas cos they're the most likely to be run past interval. You don't need to overfill the lowers for that to happen, it happens to all cartridge dampers - hence the newer dampers with spring-backed IFPs and purge ports instead of bladders.