KS LEV Dropper Post

[madmarc]

A few years back I bought a KSLEV Dropper post - Wasn't cheap ! - Its developed some sag and i've rebuilt it a few times but to no avail.

My question - does anyone know who the current importers are ? I cannot find them or any spare cartridges locally or in Europe - I found lots in USA but once you add shipping it be cheaper to bin it and get a brand new Lynne dropper.

[Hurricane bikes]

RBC Robbi Powell 

[Skylark]

Maybe best to sell it as is/for spares at this point and get a Lyne because without much local support on the Lev it's pretty much dead in the water. A new cartridge for a Lyne is R700 and service kit R400 so apart from some lube and a bit of time that's probably all you need to outlay to rebuild one every few years.

[madmarc]

6 hours ago, Hurricane bikes said:

RBC Robbi Powell 

I will call them but I suspect they cannot do cartridge rebuilds 

[madmarc]

4 hours ago, Skylark said:

Maybe best to sell it as is/for spares at this point and get a Lyne because without much local support on the Lev it's pretty much dead in the water. A new cartridge for a Lyne is R700 and service kit R400 so apart from some lube and a bit of time that's probably all you need to outlay to rebuild one every few years.

I fear this will be the final solution 

[droo]

To get the sag out you'll need to rebuild the cartridge, which is a reasonably easy job about 60% of the time.

http://www.peterverdone.com/ks-lev-rebuild-and-travel-adjustment/

The only trick is that in some of the later versions they knocked a pip into the outer post where the lower seal head threads in to stop it from unscrewing itself (and to stop palookas like us from getting in there to do what's essentially a really simple service).

If you have one of these, you'll just need to carefully drill that pip out with a 2.5mm bit before unscrewing the seal head.

Godspeed.

 

 

[Jewbacca]

1 hour ago, droo said:

To get the sag out you'll need to rebuild the cartridge, which is a reasonably easy job about 60% of the time.

http://www.peterverdone.com/ks-lev-rebuild-and-travel-adjustment/

The only trick is that in some of the later versions they knocked a pip into the outer post where the lower seal head threads in to stop it from unscrewing itself (and to stop palookas like us from getting in there to do what's essentially a really simple service).

If you have one of these, you'll just need to carefully drill that pip out with a 2.5mm bit before unscrewing the seal head.

Godspeed.

 

 

@madmarc sees this response and is suddenly so excited that it's doable but it may be challenging! hahaha

 

[DieselnDust]

5 hours ago, Jewbacca said:

@madmarc sees this response and is suddenly so excited that it's doable but it may be challenging! hahaha

 

he's already printed the instructions

[madmarc]

8 hours ago, droo said:

To get the sag out you'll need to rebuild the cartridge, which is a reasonably easy job about 60% of the time.

http://www.peterverdone.com/ks-lev-rebuild-and-travel-adjustment/

The only trick is that in some of the later versions they knocked a pip into the outer post where the lower seal head threads in to stop it from unscrewing itself (and to stop palookas like us from getting in there to do what's essentially a really simple service).

If you have one of these, you'll just need to carefully drill that pip out with a 2.5mm bit before unscrewing the seal head.

Godspeed.

 

 

thanx for the feedback - The link was the first attempt but its not as simple as he makes it out to be

There is a better link i have been following on MTBR with the same subject and watched numerous YouTjub videos on the cartridge rebuild - luckily mine doesn't have the pip so its actually easy to disassemble - I've even replaced most of the seals i got locally from BM. 

So my journey down this rabbit hole so fare has been 4 cartridge rebuilds. When i experienced the first sag it was really bad, about 2cm's - all the rebuilds develop about 5mm of sag after 1 week of standing not even being used - I suspect i'm still getting air in the inner hydraulic cylinder during assembly.

Then i followed an article on PinkBike on their tour through the KS factory and in one of the pictures i noticed that the cartridges are all submerged inside an oil bath and from what i remember something was mentioned that the final assembly was done while submerged in oil to ensure there was no air trapped inside. As these things don't have bleed systems like normal hydraulic system have - this part is critical. so once i close it up and its in its normal working position the air bubbles are accumulating at the top and its starts to sag again.

I think this is where the problem lays, as inserting the actuator piston into the cylinder is not easy, as its very tight when the seals are going in and all of a sudden they pop through and oil spurts everywhere (sounds like a porn movie script) but you get the picture.

So my next attempt will be to either submerge the thing in an oil bath or fit a cup on the end so i can keep the final closure covered in oil, for the final assembly.

I should by now have just bought a Lynne dropper, but i'm not letting this thing beat me, i will fight it until I am free.

 

Here's the MTBR thread link for those who care to join me in the Rabbit Hole

  https://www.mtbr.com/threads/ks-lev-diy-cartridge-rebuild.899659/

 

    

Edited February 7, 2023 by madmarc
Link added

[DieselnDust]

39 minutes ago, madmarc said:

thanx for the feedback - The link was the first attempt but its not as simple as he makes it out to be

There is a better link i have been following on MTBR with the same subject and watched numerous YouTjub videos on the cartridge rebuild - luckily mine doesn't have the pip so its actually easy to disassemble - I've even replaced most of the seals i got locally from BM. 

So my journey down this rabbit hole so fare has been 4 cartridge rebuilds. When i experienced the first sag it was really bad, about 2cm's - all the rebuilds develop about 5mm of sag after 1 week of standing not even being used - I suspect i'm still getting air in the inner hydraulic cylinder during assembly.

Then i followed an article on PinkBike on their tour through the KS factory and in one of the pictures i noticed that the cartridges are all submerged inside an oil bath and from what i remember something was mentioned that the final assembly was done while submerged in oil to ensure there was no air trapped inside. As these things don't have bleed systems like normal hydraulic system have - this part is critical. so once i close it up and its in its normal working position the air bubbles are accumulating at the top and its starts to sag again.

I think this is where the problem lays, as inserting the actuator piston into the cylinder is not easy, as its very tight when the seals are going in and all of a sudden they pop through and oil spurts everywhere (sounds like a porn movie script) but you get the picture.

So my next attempt will be to either submerge the thing in an oil bath or fit a cup on the end so i can keep the final closure covered in oil, for the final assembly.

I should by now have just bought a Lynne dropper, but i'm not letting this thing beat me, i will fight it until I am free.

 

Here's the MTBR thread link for those who care to join me in the Rabbit Hole

  https://www.mtbr.com/threads/ks-lev-diy-cartridge-rebuild.899659/

 

    

keep at it man, victory is sweet

 

PS: I"m quite irritated with my Lyne because the rotational slop is just becoming unbearable. R3k every 2 years for a new one isn't too bad  guess but its also really heavy. So if you can win with the KS at least you'll be the go to guy for all troubleshooting KS related

Edited February 7, 2023 by DieselnDust

[madmarc]

12 hours ago, DieselnDust said:

keep at it man, victory is sweet

 

PS: I"m quite irritated with my Lyne because the rotational slop is just becoming unbearable. R3k every 2 years for a new one isn't too bad  guess but its also really heavy. So if you can win with the KS at least you'll be the go to guy for all troubleshooting KS related

I don't know the Lynne dropper, but on the ks lev the rotational slop is easily serviceable by replacing the 3 brass pins, they consider this a serviceable item and sell the parts online - Takes 30 min to do.

 A lot of droppers have similar design so maybe check out the Lyne to see if its the same

 

[madmarc]

A quick search - its the same concept so Lyne is def serviceable

 

 

[droo]

13 hours ago, DieselnDust said:

keep at it man, victory is sweet

 

PS: I"m quite irritated with my Lyne because the rotational slop is just becoming unbearable. R3k every 2 years for a new one isn't too bad  guess but its also really heavy. So if you can win with the KS at least you'll be the go to guy for all troubleshooting KS related

The rebuild kit on the Lyne has keys in it which will reduce the play. The V2 have a new key system so are much better in this regard.

Although if lateral play annoys you, Bikeyoke Revive or Fox Transfer are your best options. For you, the Revive would win cos I know you like doing your own servicing and you'll have all the tools already.

[droo]

14 hours ago, madmarc said:

thanx for the feedback - The link was the first attempt but its not as simple as he makes it out to be

There is a better link i have been following on MTBR with the same subject and watched numerous YouTjub videos on the cartridge rebuild - luckily mine doesn't have the pip so its actually easy to disassemble - I've even replaced most of the seals i got locally from BM. 

So my journey down this rabbit hole so fare has been 4 cartridge rebuilds. When i experienced the first sag it was really bad, about 2cm's - all the rebuilds develop about 5mm of sag after 1 week of standing not even being used - I suspect i'm still getting air in the inner hydraulic cylinder during assembly.

Then i followed an article on PinkBike on their tour through the KS factory and in one of the pictures i noticed that the cartridges are all submerged inside an oil bath and from what i remember something was mentioned that the final assembly was done while submerged in oil to ensure there was no air trapped inside. As these things don't have bleed systems like normal hydraulic system have - this part is critical. so once i close it up and its in its normal working position the air bubbles are accumulating at the top and its starts to sag again.

I think this is where the problem lays, as inserting the actuator piston into the cylinder is not easy, as its very tight when the seals are going in and all of a sudden they pop through and oil spurts everywhere (sounds like a porn movie script) but you get the picture.

So my next attempt will be to either submerge the thing in an oil bath or fit a cup on the end so i can keep the final closure covered in oil, for the final assembly.

I should by now have just bought a Lynne dropper, but i'm not letting this thing beat me, i will fight it until I am free.

 

Here's the MTBR thread link for those who care to join me in the Rabbit Hole

  https://www.mtbr.com/threads/ks-lev-diy-cartridge-rebuild.899659/

 

    

I've done plenty of the KS carts, and the main thing is to make sure there's no air in the oil side of the system. Have a look at the Rockshox Reverb manual for pointers. I've never used an oil bath and I've never had issues with sag.

The other pointer, and this goes for all posts, is never to pull up on the post while it's compressed.

[DieselnDust]

56 minutes ago, droo said:

The rebuild kit on the Lyne has keys in it which will reduce the play. The V2 have a new key system so are much better in this regard.

Although if lateral play annoys you, Bikeyoke Revive or Fox Transfer are your best options. For you, the Revive would win cos I know you like doing your own servicing and you'll have all the tools already.

I’ve replaced the contour v2 pins twice. I also replaced the plastic bushes at this time. It was better for a week or two then the slop was normal. Now the post rattles if it’s up and I’m off the seat. Very annoying.

what about Reverb C1? I can service that thing too.

[droo]

3 hours ago, DieselnDust said:

I’ve replaced the contour v2 pins twice. I also replaced the plastic bushes at this time. It was better for a week or two then the slop was normal. Now the post rattles if it’s up and I’m off the seat. Very annoying.

what about Reverb C1? I can service that thing too.

Reverb is a great post let down by expensive and limited spares. The only parts you can get for it (as with many other RS bits, although they are getting a bit better) are seal kits. So if anything else gets damaged, it's going in the bin.