help needed on rebuilding hub

[Rudie]

Hi

I have tried to open my MTB hubs, take out the rusted balls and clean the cups myself. I then cleaned out everything, and put new balls in, regreased everything and now I have problems and lots of questions.

 

1. I used a synthetic grease, not affected by water. What type of grease is actually recommended???

 

2. The wheel is not in the centre of my frame anymore looks like some nuts and washers are different thicknesses. which goes where?

 

3. I see that the most outer nut on the front axel also is different thicknesses for both sides. Which one goes which side?

 

  Help help help pleeeeeze

 

[Sammajoor]

PM Johan Bornmann............... he has all the answers

[Rudie]

hmmm, new to this forum. How to get hold of his hubber name?

[Piernas Flacas]

Rudie,

 

There should be only two nuts on each side and of the same width. It's only the spacers that may be of a different width. Normally the thicker one goes on the left side. You need to loosen everything in order to adjust the cones to center the wheel again. The order is normally cone, washer, spacer, nut. Next time you service your hub loosen the left side only and leav the right side (the cassette side) intact so you don't have centering problems. I hope it helps.

[JPW#]

my advice: befriend a bicycle mechanic or ex mechanic )  there are lots around. If all else fails, google )

[Slave]

I have gone through the sameexercisea few times as I usually regrease my hubs, bearing and all that stuff at least once every two years.

 

I am based in Alberton and will help you with the work if you bring me the bike.

 

Otherwise, take it to your local bike shop (LBS) and they will do it for a fee.

[Loon]

S2L...

 

He is in Western Cape....

Dont think he is gonna come visit you

 

Rudie... Go to www.yellowsaddle.co.za

Loon2008-10-23 02:00:02

[Mudsimus]

Or just go to a bike shop and get it done proper.

[Loon]

Rudie... What hubs are they?

[Slave]

S2L...

 

He is in Western Cape....

Dont think he is gonna come visit you

 

Rudie... Go to www.yellowsaddle.co.za

 

Yip, only saw that after I had made the post.  Already suggested that it would be cheaper for him to visit his LBS.

 

For those who plan on doing the same thing in future, take note of how you take it all apart and re-fit in the reverse order.

 

Take pics with your phone camera just to be sure and never undo both sides of the cones, locknuts and spacers. One sideis usually enough to get all the bearings out.

 

Be careful of the torque you use when re-assembling and that there is no play on the axle once it is reassembled.

 

Wobbly wheels are not cool.

[Johan Bornman]

 

Cut cut cut

Be careful of the torque you use when re-assembling and that there is no play on the axle once it is reassembled.

 

Cut cut cut

 

Not Quite:

 

From https://www.bikehub.co.za/forum_posts.asp?TID=35301&PN=2

 

Cut cut cut

 

"Squirt a ring of grease onto the races, glue the bearings in there, replace the axle gently from the right and adjust the cones.<?: prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" />

 

Cones should be tightened so that there is just a small perceptable play when you wiggle the bearing/axle by hand. On the bike, the QR skewer compresses it and then you should feel no wiggle.

 

The wheel is perfect if there is no wiggle when clamped in the bike and, the wheel settles on its heaviest point each time you spin it a little. If it settles randomly, the cones are too tight.

"

 

  

[Slave]

Once agin JB, thanks for that technically correct explanation. Far more effective than mine.