Gear Cable Outers?

[Dirtbreath]

I am wanting to convert my gear cable outers to a continuous run. The XTR kits only come in those irritating precut lengths. Even then I have to add some XT bits as they dont fit my frame.

 

I am looking at Goodridge outers as I can get it in longer lengths.

 

Has anyone done a conversion such as this? What outers did you use?

 

I am not a fan of Nokon or outers that look like those steel links.

 

[singletrackmind]

Use jagwire ripcords. They are 100% covered all the way to the derailers. I use them. And they come in alot of colours

[GIRR]

Your lbs should have rolls of outer cable (normally standard shimano), just ask them to cut you a length that you need to fit your bike.  The only problem that ive found is you need to drill out the cable guide on your frame so the outer cable will fit through it.

[AndreZA]

Just go to your LBS and buy plain black Shimano SIS outers by the meter. It's about R15-20 per meter. Ask for the XTR end caps.

[Dirtbreath]

When you say covered, is that an outer the whole way or outer and then those little sleeves where the cables are normally exposed?

[Dirtbreath]

 

Just go to your LBS and buy plain black Shimano SIS outers by the meter. It's about R15-20 per meter. Ask for the XTR end caps.

 

I know, thats the sensible thing to do. Not much fun though is it?

 

[Dirtbreath]

 

Your lbs should have rolls of outer cable (normally standard shimano)' date=' just ask them to cut you a length that you need to fit your bike.  The only problem that ive found is you need to drill out the cable guide on your frame so the outer cable will fit through it.

[/quote']

 

At this stage I wont be drilling the cable stops. Will attach the outer to the frame using cable ties and trimmed ferrule ends.

 

[Johan Bornman]

You can't dril cable stops since the drill's chuck cannot get in there and it makes an awful mess of your frame. Use a needle file and some patience.

Whatever you do, you'll never look back again after this op. Little pieces of cable is a crime against MTBers. One piece is the way to go.

 

Buy standard Shimano or BBB cable. Poofter cable has no advantage whatsoever.

 

 

[Dirtbreath]

 

 

You can't dril cable stops since the drill's chuck cannot get in there and it makes an awful mess of your frame. Use a needle file and some patience.

Whatever you do' date=' you'll never look back again after this op. Little pieces of cable is a crime against MTBers. One piece is the way to go.

 

Buy standard Shimano or BBB cable. Poofter cable has no advantage whatsoever.

 

 

[/quote']

 

Thanks.

 

I dont think I will be filing the stops quite yet. I Have no doubt that the performance will be greatly improved but want to test it first.

 

Just by the way, what is the difference between an XTR housing and the standard Shimano housing, and the other guys like Goodridge, Gore, Jagwire..... The only difference I can find is in the fact that they have those inner outer cable covers and fancy sealing ferrules.

Dirtbreath2008-11-05 11:34:20

[singletrackmind]

The cables on the jagwire system are 100% covered yes, all the way, you cannot see the cable

[Johan Bornman]

I dont think I will be filing the stops quite yet. I Have no doubt that the performance will be greatly improved but want to test it first.

Just by the way' date=' what is the difference between an XTR housing and the standard Shimano housing, and the other guys like Goodridge, Gore, Jagwire..... The only difference I can find is in the fact that they have those inner outer cable covers and fancy sealing ferrules.
[/quote']

 

I hope I didn't give the impression that performance will be improved. Gears that shift well shift well, there's nothing you can do to make them shift even better.

 

Unbroken cable has the advantage that it shifts well for longer. Simply because contaminants have less places to enter the cable. With a continuous cable it can basically only enter at the jockey and at the shifter on the handlebar. The latter is the problem. Dirt works its way into the cable to a depth far beyond the cable's movement limits. The dirt ratchets in there and quickly causes the cable to seize.

 

Most people don't experience this simply because they are a) too fast and never eat dust or b), don't ride enough.

 

It is a particular problem on long stage races, Sabie experience, Sani, Epic, etc.

 

If you can envisage a cable in cut-through profile you'll see it is daisy shaped. The fancy cable sets come with ferrues with O-rings inside. O-rings are very poor seals on something that's not uniformly round - like our daisy-shaped cable. O-rings also allow grit to roll underneath, unlike a wiper seal such as you have on your shock fork.

 

Therefore, the O-rings in these fancy ferrules are of little help. The biggest help in these ferrules is the empty void between the cable's exit on the ferrule and the cable stop itself. If you look at the ferrule you'll see it is quite long and designed to keep a space between the cable outer and the little hole with the O-ring. That void is what works. It traps dirt without forcing it to ratchet into the cable outer.

 

In my view, a cable outer is an outer. If it has a nylon outer sleever, tight spiral flat metal compression sleeve and nylon/teflon core, there is not much more you can do to make it better. XTR cables, Lefty told us, has some fancy grease in.

 

Cable inners are somewhat deceptive. They must be made from stainless steel and not galvanised steel. The latter is extremely course and even worse so if it gets wet. Also, top-end cables have been pushed through a die and the outer strands have flat outside faces, making the cable somewhat less daisy-shaped. This will help with smoothness and dirt ingression.

 

 

[Dirtbreath]

No, this is being done to prolong good shifting. If shifting is good, its good. Just want to keep it good as long as possible.

 

[Azonic]

My personal experience is that a fixed length of outer makes for smoother shifts. YES, I know there is "more" outer to drag the inner through, but it 'felt' like shifting was lighter, less resistance. And yeah, you can look at problem free shifting for way over a year.

 

I have a bunch of these jobbies, if anyone wants to buy.

 

 

Shifting outer is too narrow for it, BUT, all that you do is take a shifter outer "end", cut the end off that's got the small hole in for the cable, and slide it down the outer to where you need it. That makes the outer "thick" enough to grip in these guides. I got them on my, and my wife's bike. Works great and doesn't require drilling any cable stops.

 

 

[MintSauce]

You can drill the cablestops out, you just need to be careful not to damage the frame. It's certainly doable. However, it will make a mess of the frame if you're careless

 

A dremel is a better tool for the job

 

No....I don't have patience for a file

 

 

 

[Piernas Flacas]

Interesting topic. Is it possible to convert the front deraileur cabling as well even if it is routed below the down tube and around the BB?

[Dirtbreath]

 

Interesting topic. Is it possible to convert the front deraileur cabling as well even if it is routed below the down tube and around the BB?

 

Yes, although each frames cable routing is different. As obvious as it sounds you need to ensure that you have a stop at the beginning and end  of the cable outer. Those plastic guides that sit under a BB are the perfect place for grit to settle in. I do however think that a front derailleur is not as sensitive as a rear derailleur.