Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Cajees 4ways has a decent one (demo) that they offered to me for 1600. I have just bought a wall mount from CRC for about 750. Works fine for me!

Posted

Is that a new price? On CRC they go for 180 squid, works out to about 3.5k in ZA Rondt by the time its landed here.

 

 

 

But they are the dog's danglies. And your great grandchildren will probably still be using it.droo2008-12-05 04:17:01

Posted

I have a Park home workshop stand. Not too bad but if I was buying again I think I'd look for something else. The bike always swing around and the black plastic clamp that joins the upright post cannot be tightened sufficiently to stop it doing so.

Posted

 

I got one of these:

Ultimate Pro Elite

 

It's a bit more expensive than the PCS-4 (about R400-R600, depending on options) but is, in my opinion, a much better design and is portable. It has also received very good reviews.

 

Edman2008-12-05 11:11:39

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Johan Bornman had a cool stand when I was at him the other day. It looked like a home made job and it supports the bike by the BB and the fork (you have to take the wheel out.

 

 

 

Looks like a very good design, because you can exert a lot of pressure around the BB area. And you can pedal and adjust gears without any fear of the bike moving.

 

 

 

It looked like it would be fairly simple to make, although I probably wouldn't have the patience.

Posted

There is no such thing as the ideal workstand and there's always a compromise.

Workstands with toptube/seat tube clamps are concenient in that they're quick to engage. The better quality (read, more expensive) Park clamps are also quick to adjust whereas the cheaper ones not. If you only work on your own bike and you only have one, adjustment is not an issue.

 

The major drawback of the clamp type workstands is as Dirtbreath says, the bike flops around and invariably scratches the paint. You can't do any serious work on those stands and even setting gears is pushing the limits, especially with a MTB with slime in the tyres. It'll shake and vibrate the stand and you'll get irritated and kick the dog. It's not his fault.

 

Also, it doesn't support the fork so you can't do any reasonable handlebar work such as fitting tape, adjusting stubborn levers etc.

 

The most stable workstands clamp the fork and support under the BB. This way you can even take a stubborn crank or BB off using a very long lever and still have absolute stability on the bike.

 

The downside of this type of workstand is that you cannot take the fork off and keep the bike in the stand.

 

One other thing is bike washing. For bike washing I use an aluminium clamp stand - Topeak to be exact.  A steel Park would rust.

 

To work on the bike, I use a fork clamp type stand that I've made myself and sell to my students who have experienced the benefits and drawbacks of both. I like to think this is the best first stand. It's cheap too.

 

I make a de-lux variety that disassembles, fits into a carry bag and, has two height settings for the fork 1) for perfectly level work so that you can do things such as adjust the saddle against the horizontal and 2) dropped fork height for shorties wanting to fit their computers or wrap handlebar tape.

 

Ideally you should have three stands. 1) Welded to your washline so that you can wash your bicycle outdoors in a clean environment with a conveniently handy hosepipe and good drainage. 2) A fork clamp stand for serious work and 3) a Topeak for traveling, race support and washing your bike in the caravan park's ablution block at Sabie.

 

 

 

 
Posted

From a previous posting I made. I have used stands similar to this on our Tandems for years now and they work. I left one in Mozambique as well as in Lagos. I have one in my store in Pretoria.

 

A ratchet securing strap can be used to secure the top tube to the angle holder. DO NOT OVETIGHTEN AS THIS CAN CRUSH YOUR TOPTUBE!!!!! You can also wind a bungee cord around it to make it more stable if ypou want to. Protect the bike by sticking self adhesive foam strips to places where the frame may make contact. You can beef it up by using 50mm square tubing...... I prefer that. Easy to make if you have a welder and angle grinder.

 

My cheep and cheerfull work stand. I use it for our tandems. It works for almost amy task you want to do. Does not need clamping. For frame protection use a piece of sponge "lagging" available form your local hardware store or slit a 50 mm piece of black uPVC pipe for the frame to fit. Fix both with cable ties with holes drilled trough the angle iron. The overhang should be 300mm as the 500mm makes the whole thing wobble. If you have a suitable pole in your  carport, truncate the whole thing just below the "gallows" support arm and fix it to the pole at a suitable height. You can make the original to suit your own height. I found that the top stube or angle support must be at about "tiet" hoogte.

 

20080925_061125_fietsstaander.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Settings My Forum Content My Followed Content Forum Settings Ad Messages My Ads My Favourites My Saved Alerts My Pay Deals Help Logout