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Posted

Paint srtipper and a wire brush.  Finish with 800 waterpaper then 1000 waterpaper.

Alu primer and then paint.  Might be worth finding out what your local panelshop will charge.   Might costs less than the time effort and materials which you need to buy.

They can also do pearl finishes etc, which you won't get in a can.If you get the negatives of the decals made, then they can spray the decals on between the base and clearcost.  No peeling issues after that.

 

Good luck.

Posted

if sandblasting cant be done, and i have my doubts that you cant get away with a spray-on filler to remove the slight roughness sandblasting results in, then try a steel-friendly chemical cleaner.

I say steel-friendly, as some chemicals leech the carbon out of the steel's crystal structure, making it artificially brittle. This of course happens over time, so a wax on wax off approach might not result in any brittleness.

 

The guys in the paint removal business are supposed to know the pro's and con's of each method, so consult with them.

But nothing wrong with some elbow grease and a long weekend holding a piece of sandpaper ;)
Posted

Its the long weekend and broken hand im worried about.... I dunno I still feel like sandblasting is the way to go....... maybe then im forced to powdercoat it...

Posted

I thought that maybe I should have taken the frame home after sand blasting and use sandpaper to smooth out the roughness, as I say this is not familiar territory for me. <?: prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" />

 

Also, I'm the only one that's not too happy with the finish. Others have mentioned that you can't really see it.

Posted

If it were me, I'd shot blast and powder coat. If the powder coating's done properly, it'll be much harder wearing than paint (but slightly heavier)

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