Chain Replacement on MTB

[Red Zone]

I see your point, when I do multi day events I make sure that I have someone to clean my bike, when I do my normal riding I use the Clamshell cleaner, which is OK. But I will give your method a shot now that it is winter. Fortunatly I put a new chain and cluster on about 150 km ago so it should be fine to start swinging.

[singletrack]

I dont see the advantage in rotating your chain' date=' why not use one chain until it is time to replace and then get a new one. [/quote']

 

if you ride a lot of consequtive days, two chains save you a lot of time.

 

for instance, you ride a multistage 2 day event.

 

you finish day one, are tired and dont wanna wash your bike. just slap on your second clean lubricated chain and you are ready to roll.

 

all you really need is a clean drivetrain/chain to ride. nothing else really have to be clean.

 

This happens a lot over normal weekends as well if you dont wanna wash your bike after saterdays mud and want to ride sunday as well. just slap on the clean chain and go ride.

 

sunday you can then wash the bike and clean and lube both chains again and be ready for another weekend.

 

this WILL save your casette, chain and chainrings from alot of premature wear .

 

you could also just clean and lube your single chain the whole time, but who wants to do that ?

 

lastly, you need to take the chain off and properly clean it, otherwise the gunk and grinding paste will kill it on the inside where it matters.

 

use the method described by JohanBornman. use prepsol and a bucket/bottle to clean it porperly.

 

believe me, your wallet will thank you.

 

 

 

Well put

[Mutt]

*Mini hijack - sort of*

 

 

 

Quicklink. Not even debatable.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I have one of these quick links in my stuffs - Is it strong enough to take the strain of regular use? I was always of the opinion it was a quick fix to get out of a bnd and back to your home / car.

 

 

 

Suppose my question is - Are they really good enough to use continually? (PS. I think they cost me 9 bucks or something - It is 2 identical halves which slot together.)

[Mutt]

ok - if i carried on reading I would see my answer.

 

 

 

 

[Red Zone]

I ride both my MTB and Road bikes with quick links, have done so for many many years and man do I put out some serious Power, they are plenty strong enough

 

Correct it is the two halves that slot together

[CaptainDura]

*Mini hijack - sort of*

Quicklink. Not even debatable.

I have one of these quick links in my stuffs - Is it strong enough to take the strain of regular use? I was always of the opinion it was a quick fix to get out of a bnd and back to your home / car.

Suppose my question is - Are they really good enough to use continually? (PS. I think they cost me 9 bucks or something - It is 2 identical halves which slot together.)

 

They (the sram ones) are as tough as nails.   I open close mine after every ride when i clean the chain and they have not failed me once in the last 3 years since i started using them.

 

as mampara said. not even debatable

 

[AndreZA]

..Are they really good enough to use continually? (PS. I think they cost me 9 bucks or something - It is 2 identical halves which slot together.)

 

 

 

alot of the expensive Sram, KMC (they make Shimano chains) and YBN chains comes standard with the quick/easy link. Even Dura-Ace is now comming standard with them.

[Mutt]

Thanks all for your answers. I have wanted to remove my chain for a thorough cleaning a few time but was worried about rejoining. I will get some more quick links and give this a try! Whats the worst that happens?

 

 

 

Should we look for specific ones or are the 9 rand ones fine.

[Guest Big H]

Distance is not the best way to gauge chain wear.If you really want to run a couple of chains on a cassette before changing cassette as well buy a PARKTOOL Chain Checker and replace chain accordingly.

Best way to do it!

 

"chain checker" is NOT a good way of checking wear on a chain. Enough has been said on it. Use a ruler. Do a search on the Hub or with google and read up about it. All my references has been packed away or else I would have given the specs. We are moving house tomorrow.

[splat]

[singletrack]

Distance is not the best way to gauge chain wear.If you really want to run a couple of chains on a cassette before changing cassette as well buy a PARKTOOL Chain Checker and replace chain accordingly.

Best way to do it!

 

"chain checker" is NOT a good way of checking wear on a chain. Enough has been said on it. Use a ruler. Do a search on the Hub or with google and read up about it. All my references has been packed away or else I would have given the specs. We are moving house tomorrow.

 

ok, please correct me if I am wrong, I am new to the list as you can see...

If you use a ruler you will measure the strech of the chain from one link to another. What about the rollers inside of the chain that is actually the moving parts on the chain and wears the chain out as well. Should this not be a good way to measure the wear of the chain as well, whereby the use of a chainchecker comes in handy? Only asking...

Thanks

[AndreZA]

Why would the rollers make a different. Sure they will wear out aswell but that does not chow away the teeth of the sprocket like a stretched chain would.

[singletrack]

Why would the rollers make a different. Sure they will wear out aswell but that does not chow away the teeth of the sprocket like a stretched chain would.

 

Like I said, I am only asking because it makes sence that the rollers inside the chain will also show wear and this is the way a well respected LBS checks for chainwear and as such have used myself for years.

When

[singletrack]

Why would the rollers make a different. Sure they will wear out aswell but that does not chow away the teeth of the sprocket like a stretched chain would.

 

Like I said, I am only asking because it makes sence that the rollers inside the chain will also show wear and this is the way a well respected LBS checks for chainwear and as such have used myself for years.

When I compared a well worn chain's rollers to a

[singletrack]

Why would the rollers make a different. Sure they will wear out aswell but that does not chow away the teeth of the sprocket like a stretched chain would.

 

I am only asking a question.

If I compare a well worn chain to a brad new one, the movement of the rollers are signifficantly more in the worn chain.

I guess it would be a combination of the streched chain and the wear of the inside of the chain caused by the rollers??

 

Like I said, please let me know if I am wrong here.

[Dirty Twin]

I had my LBS do a similar job on my bike. Had to replace a few extra things as well.

 

Mamparra does this look like fair pricing on these items?

 

sram pg970 cassette                  R 401.63<?: prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" />

truvativ middle blade                   R 245.00

sram x9 jockey wheels               R 192.50

service                                      R 180.00

blade 22t                                   R 161.00

disc pads                                  R 227.50

Total                                        R1397.63