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Posted

I'm baffled. My MTB gears are changing all on their own. This happens whilst riding under lots of power and when spinning along. It happens over bumps sections too. All that happens is that the chain hops onto the cog below or above on its own accord.

 

 

 

The problem is that when the bike is on the work stand the gears operate perfectly.

 

 

 

I'm riding a Scott Genius mc 20 (dual susser)with a mix of LX and XT if that matters.

 

 

 

Any suggestions?

 

 

 

 

Posted

First: Get those cables replaced!

If your chain is new and you have an old(er) or worn chainwheel and cassette/cluster you will have problems when the chain is under pressure.

 

I'm no expert, but when you replace your chain it's best to replace the cassette/cluster as well. My advice would be to use 2 chains and swop them every 100km or every other ride so everything lasts a little longer...

 
Posted

Sounds like your cable housing is too long/short between the front and rear triangle.

When the bike is on the stand the gears will shift smoothly but when you sit on the bike the rear shock compresses and the section of housing that runs between the front and rear flexes(not sure if that is the correct term) and affects the tension on the inner cable causing your gears to jump up and down.

 

To cut a long story short - try running a longer housing and check that the cable routiing is correct.
quickdraw2009-08-11 12:22:22
Posted

Quickdraw may have hit the nail on the head. This problem started recently and it happens that I changed my gear cables recently... Sounds like too much of a coincidence. I'll go have a look.

Posted

Sounds like your cable housing is too long/short between the front and rear triangle.

When the bike is on the stand the gears will shift smoothly but when you sit on the bike the rear shock compresses and the section of housing that runs between the front and rear flexes(not sure if that is the correct term) and affects the tension on the inner cable casuing your gears to jump up and down.

 

To cut a long story short - try running a longer housing and check that the cable routiing is correct.

 

So obviouse ClapThumbs%20Up !!!
Posted

+1 for cable routing. Deflate or detach your shock and check how your cables behave through the whole travel range. If they're going to kink or pull or do anything silly you'll be able to spot it before you cut the housings.

Posted

 

 

I'm no expert' date=' but when you replace your chain it's best to replace the cassette/cluster as well. My advice would be to use 2 chains and swop them every 100km or every other ride so everything lasts a little longer...

 
[/quote']

 

You are right about the former and wrong about the latter.  Poor advice cost people money.
Posted

Just a thought...... were you able to measure the cassette with you vernier and compare it with the chain. If you were able to accurately measure the cassette along the curve you may be onto something revolutionary!!!!!!!!!

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