Sid Race Fork: Changing Stroke

[Terminator]

I've got a Rockshox Sid Race fork, set at 80mm, and would possibly like to change it to 100mm. Is it something only a bike shop can do, or can it be attempted by myself? When I got the bike, I was given what looked to be 2 spacers apparently for this adjustment.

[Weight Weenie]

yes they extend the travel to 100mm, no idea how to do it but im sure it wouldnt be too difficult, ask Johan Bornman perhaps.

[Terminator]

Thanks, hopefully JB will see this thread.

[Brighter-Lights]

With spacers removed, it probably is already at 100mm... = add spacers to decrease stroke, remove spacers to increase stroke.

 

It can very easily be done yourself. Download the RS service manual... everything explained in detail.

[Terminator]

With spacers removed' date=' it probably is already at 100mm... = add spacers to decrease stroke, remove spacers to increase stroke.

 

It can very easily be done yourself. Download the RS service manual... everything explained in detail.

[/quote']

 

Cool, will download that manual.

 

Spacers are definitely in my hand, and fork is definitely at 80mm!

[Terminator]

I see on the Rock Shox website that there's only a manual for 2006 model.

[Scratch]

I'm looking for the same manual - also could not find it on the RS website, and idead on where we can get it?

[Brighter-Lights]

http://www.sram.com/_media/pdf/rockshox/dealers/TM_MY10.pdf

[Johan Bornman]

If the fork is at 80mm now, you have too many spacers on hand. There's still one inside as well. If it is a 20mm wide black plastic thing with a slot in that you have in your hand, you can expect to find the same inside. Just pull it off and re-assemble the fork.

 

Unfortunately this is not the place to give detailed instructions for that operation.

 

The manual will definitely help since it is clear as daylight. Just make sure you have the right oil, otherwise your little exercise will be incomplete. You may as well clean the seals and foam rings whilst you are at it.

 

If it is a recent SID, you'll need an extra-long 10mm socket. NOTHING ELSE WILL DO THE JOB! Dojt be tempted to McGyver this one.

 

 

[Terminator]

Thanks Brighter Lights and Johan.

 

Presumably bike shops will carry the correct oil?

[Brighter-Lights]

Use 10w40 Synthetic motor oil in the lowers. If you need fork oil for the damping side, get Castol Fork Oil... Different weights available... I paid R35 for almost a litre 5 weight. 

 

RWC recommends using Finishline Stanchoin lube with their Enduro wipers because there's no foam rings.

 

I enter the uppers past the seals, then turn the fork upside down and add the recommended amount of oil to each lower, then I pull the uppers out until the wipers just seal - holding it like this, the oil runs down and fill the foam ring cavity completely. As you ride, oil will slowly work down into the lowers again, keeping the sliders and wipers like butter much longer.

 

On the topic of travel change, you CAN do the travel change without removing the lowers... BUT I recommend taking the lowers off to clean the wipers and foamrings.

 

If you're lazy...

 

1. deflate both air chambers.

 

2. take off the positive air topcap.

 

3. turn the fork upside down

 

4. loosen the airspring locknut with your long 10mm socket and tap shaft loose with plastic hammer...

 

5. lubricate + (positive) air topcap with some grease so it won't damage the airseal.

 

6. using a thin wooden dowl, push the airspring shaft back/out until the air piston passes the threads and come out.... at the top - remove spacers.

 

7. put it back and be careful when passing the air piston past the topcap threads.

 

8. once the shaft is in, add the correct amount of oil into the lower leg before pushing it in all the way. 

 

9. tighten the lower leg locknut and turn fork around into riding position. add 5cc fork oil in + (positive) chamber to lube spring seal.

 

10. put topcap back and tighten...

 

11. inflate/add pressure...

 

Once you know how to, it'll take you less than 10 minutes to take off the lowers and lube the foamrings - something MANY riders never do, making for stiff forks and worn stanchoins... Let the bike stand upside down for a day once a week to let some oil get back to the foamrings. Afte rthat, the rebound damping might not work 100% , but it normally returns to 100% after a few strokes...