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Chain, crank & cassette


J.J
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Hey Peeps,

 

Ok so I started riding again recently. Have had the bike for about 3-4 years

 

Now my Bike has +- 2800 km's on.

 

I just want to know, MUST I replace the Crank, Chain & cassette all at once, cos I am actually quite tight on cash now?

 

It's LX componentry... the model that came out just before SLX?

 

I do service it quite regularly (Clean it in petrol and Lube it with dry lube and leave it for a day or so before I ride again), but on my last 2 rides the chain seems to be making a bit of noise?

(seems like friction or it feels worn I THINK?... LOL)

 

Just want some advice, and I know one answer that's gona come out is go and measure the chain at the LBS, but just want to know if there are any other comments/tips/help maybe on this subject. ;)

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Generally the crank isn't much of a problem... but if the chain is really stretched it may be... Just change the chain and casette!

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Generally the crank isn't much of a problem... but if the chain is really stretched it may be... Just change the chain and casette!

 

Cool, that's what I had in mind.

 

What Type of mileage is expected out of this setup, chain & cassete / Crank respectively? Not much mud riding maybe 3times max.

 

also i noticed that the chain was slipping off the 2nd "chainring" at fountains 2 weeks ago, thus I started crossing the chain a bit, the worst I did it was 3rd up front and 4th on the Cassette? on a scale from 1 - 10 how bad is that for my chain? :mellow: how do the most of you ride?

 

THX in advance to ALL. :)

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Also, when I put the bike to rest, I put everything at ease. 1st on the crank, and last on the cassette for the chain. B)

 

I think that is doing more good then Bad?

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Usually the chain and casette but sometime the middle blade goes aswell, if you ride there most of the time but don't worry I know for a fact deore blades fit perfectly on those LX cranks

 

I'm a student and have the same cranks they like R120 for a middle Deore blade so worst case chain casette and middle blade

 

Personally I would replace the midle blade anyway just to be safe I've once replaced my chain and cassette and it was skipping on the middle blade anyway so had to replace it anyhow.

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Measure your chain yourself. Use a ruler marked in inches, you can search the internet how to do it, its very easy. If the chain is worn just over the limit, buy a new one and try it. If it slips on the cassette then its time for a new cassette, otherwise ride it! If the chainring was slipping it might mean that its worn, but 1st try a new chain and see what happens.

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Measure your chain yourself. Use a ruler marked in inches, you can search the internet how to do it, its very easy. If the chain is worn just over the limit, buy a new one and try it. If it slips on the cassette then its time for a new cassette, otherwise ride it! If the chain-ring was slipping it might mean that its worn, but 1st try a new chain and see what happens.

 

So.... 12 links should be 12 inches (12 inches = 304.8 millimeters) :rolleyes:

 

When Your chain is 1.5875mm past the mark they mention chain time. (1/16th of an inch)

When Your chain is 3.1750mm past the mark they mention cassette time. (1/8th of an inch)

 

CAN SOMEONE CLARIFY THIS Method/Formula

 

Now mine is 305mm. thus only stretched a bit? (0.2mm) :unsure:

 

now the gear slipping I am talking about was definitely only when I was in the 2nd chain-ring, and when I was on the power, and If I am not mistaken when I was going over some rough terrain. (when I ride pretty flat terrain it's smooth just the noise is wierd? i use squirt's dry lube.... hmmmmm maybe it's expired) :P

 

Based on the info I have given could you'll speculate what you think could be the problem?

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Yip, right formula! ( I was just too lazy to explain :D ) I dont think its possible that you've done 2800km on a single chain and only worn 0.2mm !? I think a lot of brand new chains might show that kind of measurement. Was the chain taught when you measured? I usually try do mine on the bike, or by hanging it vertically on something (a nail in the wall works well)

 

Chainring slipping definitely sounds like chainring wear, but it all depends on the wear on the chain. If the chain is only worn 2mm, then its probably not the chainring wear. Is the front der tuned properly or does it rub against the chain when it was in the position that it slipped at?

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Cleaning your chain in petrol is one of the worst things you can do to a chain. It takes out the lube in places where you can’t relube it unless you take every link to pieces... A chain just needs to be cleaned with a dry cloth as it usually take most of the excess grease off. Also when you lube the chain, you should actually wipe it afterwards to get the excess lube off.

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Cheapest thing to replace is your chain and it should be replace every 1500km (you might get more km, you might get less km). Rule of thumb is that for every 3 chains you replace on cassette and chainrings seem to be dependent on your riding style.

 

I rode my one chain to > 1% and slapped on a new chain. All was fine for the next 1500km.

 

I just replaced the cassette more out of the fact that it was entry level than worn.

 

But most important, learn how to service your own bike and especially how to set your shifting. I blamed a worn cassette, old chain and cheap shifters for my poor shifting - took the 10 minutes required on how to learn to set your gears and never a problem since then.

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Cheapest thing to replace is your chain and it should be replace every 1500km (you might get more km, you might get less km). Rule of thumb is that for every 3 chains you replace on cassette and chainrings seem to be dependent on your riding style.

 

I rode my one chain to > 1% and slapped on a new chain. All was fine for the next 1500km.

 

I just replaced the cassette more out of the fact that it was entry level than worn.

 

But most important, learn how to service your own bike and especially how to set your shifting. I blamed a worn cassette, old chain and cheap shifters for my poor shifting - took the 10 minutes required on how to learn to set your gears and never a problem since then.

 

THX I was looking for some figures.

 

OK i double checked the chain is 306mm. and it was measured on the bike on the top chain ring. so some tension added.

 

Is cleaning with petrol really that bad? :unsure: I mean When I lube it, I put plenty on, and then I run a toothbrush over it for quite sometime to get all the wax back inside? no offense, but I don't see how you clean the inside of the chain if you're just wiping it of? how do you remove the crap on the inside?

 

Not to get a big head, I worked at Hatfield cycles (kolonade branch) for about 4 years and when the Mech wasn't there. I automatically took that roll. And also always set my friends bikes as they rate it's awesome? So I am pretty sure I can set gears. but I cannot true a wheel - AT ALL. :lol:

 

I did some reading last night. and according to my knowledge you use dry lube on a MTB.

 

But the reading I did last night says that wax/dry lube is not as efficient?

 

Crikey, I didn't think my chain would be so intricate... :D

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So.... 12 links should be 12 inches (12 inches = 304.8 millimeters) :rolleyes:

 

When Your chain is 1.5875mm past the mark they mention chain time. (1/16th of an inch)

When Your chain is 3.1750mm past the mark they mention cassette time. (1/8th of an inch)

 

CAN SOMEONE CLARIFY THIS Method/Formula

 

Now mine is 305mm. thus only stretched a bit? (0.2mm) :unsure:

 

now the gear slipping I am talking about was definitely only when I was in the 2nd chain-ring, and when I was on the power, and If I am not mistaken when I was going over some rough terrain. (when I ride pretty flat terrain it's smooth just the noise is wierd? i use squirt's dry lube.... hmmmmm maybe it's expired) :P

 

Based on the info I have given could you'll speculate what you think could be the problem?

 

 

12 links cant possibly = 12 inches - that gives a 1" pitch chain!. Bike Chain is 3/8" or 9.525 mm pitch. The longer the length of the piece that you measure, the more accurate your result will be. Count the rivets, not only the outside plates and multiply by 9.525. this should give you the length of the piece that you have chosen. Now multiply again by 2% and add that figure. If your chain is as long as, or longer than this, it is elongated beyond it's recommended limits.

 

post-4181-023020600 1281424464.jpg

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12 links cant possibly = 12 inches - that gives a 1" pitch chain!. Bike Chain is 3/8" or 9.525 mm pitch. The longer the length of the piece that you measure, the more accurate your result will be. Count the rivets, not only the outside plates and multiply by 9.525. this should give you the length of the piece that you have chosen. Now multiply again by 2% and add that figure. If your chain is as long as, or longer than this, it is elongated beyond it's recommended limits.

 

post-4181-023020600 1281424464.jpg

 

Hi,

 

1 link in this post = 1 outer link and one inner link? does that make a bit more sense? cos the measurements worked out on my chain?

 

In your picture, it is from 1 up till 3 = 1 link. ;) hope that makes a bit more sense?

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chainmeter.pdf Does but better to work per link. Try this thing, Cut out and stick to a ruler or something. Have a looksee at the little sketch on the ruler and use the 06 BS measurement. I will try it to see if the hub has changed the scale at all but must post it first.
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Scale is cool!

 

If you are in Joeys and want one, you can collect one from me? I have only one ruler spare.

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search for "lube" here on the Hub...you'll see big debates re what's good & what is bad...

 

Generally, it is not very effective to get your wax types lube in between the rollers (where the actual lube is necessary!)

 

anywhere else on the chain is actually a waste...

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