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chain wear and cassette.. help...


spaso9
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hi all... :D

 

need some advice please.

 

had a new chain fitted by LBS when had a frame issue, as they said chain was worn to 1%.

they said i may need to get a new cassette, as new chain may not fit and slip.

at first was ok, but now slipping a bit in some gears, not all, after about 500km's. And can ride with no major problems.

 

question is :unsure: :

1) do i ride with current set up till slipping gets worse and then fit new chain and cassette? (which i have in my spares box). :unsure:

2) or do i fit a new cassette now with the 500km old chain? :unsure:

 

 

how often do you guys chain your cassette?

and does chain rotation help? heard that rotating 2 or 3 chains every 200km will make cassette and chains last alot longer..

 

thanks... :rolleyes:

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oh, and it the best way to measure chain wear styill with a metal inch ruler with the whole 12 inch system...

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i have the same issue

 

took my bike in for a service, because i had a lot of chain suck and now i have to replace the middle chainring, cassette and chain

 

can anyone assist with spaso9's questions?

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Change the cassette for a start. Slipping gears is not nice and it gets worst. Have your chain regulary checked at the LBS. If it is worn replace immediately, you will extend the life of your caseette. And Lube the the chain before and after every ride and clean it regulary.

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Hi

 

Try doing a search on thsi site for things such as "chain wear" "stretched chain" :blink: and the like...

There is a heck of a lot of info floating around the tech section...

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Yip don't follow my example. Had 5500km on the clock and decided it was time to change the chain. Measured it and it was about 3/16" out. Had to change the cassette and middle ring aswell. Was R1200 for XT replacement parts. But then again, that is for the past 2.5 years of riding.

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Hokaai boys. you are assuming the chain/cassette is worn and needs to be replaced

 

I had a slipping chain. I stuck my bike on the prep stand and turned the crank over. I noticed the chain slipped in the same place all the time. I found a single bent tooth on the chainring.

 

Another slip - The power link was kaput. Kept on catching on the cassette between cogs.

 

Another slip caused by some small damage on the cassette. Took a small file and sorted it one time.

 

Some slippage caused by a dirty/worn derailer cable/housing once. Replaced cables and housing.

 

Also overhauled the derailer just for ****s and giggles. And cleaned the shifter

 

Point is - A slipping drivetrain needs to be investigated by you BEFORE you take it to the LBS. That way you know when the are selling you BS.

 

I have used the same chain from January 2010. It's still good. Granted, I clean and lube my chain/drivetrain often.

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Point is - A slipping drivetrain needs to be investigated by you BEFORE you take it to the LBS. That way you know when the are selling you BS.

 

Agree 100%

 

Learn how to set your dérailleur yourself. You don't need an expensive stand, one of those cheap R120 rand ones from your LBS / Sportsmans that lifts the back wheel off the ground (they use them to display the bikes on the floor) will do.

 

 

Why I mention this is that even when you replace your cassette, your going to need to set your gears / dérailleur anyway. ParkTool website is a great resource and its very easy.

 

 

Also save yourself the cash, get a cassette remover & chainwip (~ R220) to change it yourself. Your anyway going to be buying new cassettes on a regular basis.

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The ruler method is ok for measuring chains, but its far quicker to use a measuring tool. Simply measure the wear every week after cleaning your bike and record it in your maintenance log (its a good idea to keep one for every bike)

I change chains when they are at 0.75%. After the 3rd change, I replace the casette, whether its due or not.

Chainrings you replace when:

- small: teeth gets very sharp

- middle and big: teeth starts looking like shark fins

- one of the teeth has broken off

 

If you lube and clean your drive train regularly you'll maximise economy and performance on the components.

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MorewoodMad, we've flamed it to death the measuring tools on being inaccurate as you chuck away a perfectly good chain when the tool claims its worn.

 

So put on your flame suit and wait for the gang to start :)

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MorewoodMad, we've flamed it to death the measuring tools on being inaccurate as you chuck away a perfectly good chain when the tool claims its worn.

 

So put on your flame suit and wait for the gang to start :)

 

But here is the thing - it doesn't matter what you use, you have to put tension on the chain - so your chain has to be in the drivetrain AND you have to have tension on the chain when measuring.

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But here is the thing - it doesn't matter what you use, you have to put tension on the chain - so your chain has to be in the drivetrain AND you have to have tension on the chain when measuring.

 

 

But here is the REAL thing, it does matter what you use to measure since different tools measure different aspects of chain wear. So no, it has nothing to do with tension. That is how to use the tool, any tool, correctly.

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Hey, Morewood...maybe you should pass your "used" chains over to me...seems they might still be fine for a couple of 1000kms :D

 

I'll dispose of them for you!!

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