New to MTB -please help !!

[kanigit]

Hi guys 'n girls!

 

Am really new to this sport, although i bought a Schwinn Mesa in 2007, only did my first MTB ride (which was a race) last month, followed by another. Am proud to say I finished both, leaving me hooked!

 

What I found was:

the Schwinn is HEAVY.

downhills kill my legs, no ways could I sit on that bike.

The saddle, the saddle, the saddle - WHO the f%%! designed that thing? It is one up on Chinese bamboo torture (IMHO).

 

So...........am looking to upgrade, budget ZAR7-9k, and I don't mind going for a good condition 2nd hand bike. Very much doubt I will be a competitive racer, but doing rides and races for fitness, balance, endurance - also to complement enduro riding.

 

The problem is, I have no idea how to measure up for the right size on my next bike.

 

Will rear suspension help with those loooong downhills?

WIll I get a full suspension bike for my budget?

What bikes should I be looking for?

Any makes to avoid, or pitfalls to watch out for?

WHAT alternative saddle types are there? (preferably ones that won't neuter me)

Oh, what does "BB" stand for (as in "frame size measured from BB to top of seat post")

 

Cheers & thanks for any input!

[Christopher Brunsdon]

Welcome to the Hub and your new addiction.

 

Firstly how tall are you and what size Schwinn did you buy?

 

2nd, saddles is a personal preference. Price is no indication of comfort. I just switched to a saddle costing a quarter of the price of my previous one and my butt loves it.

 

One thing I've learn't the last two years since I started is that your going to throw so much money at your bike upgrading it to suit you that I would rather stick with your Schwinn.

[kanigit]

Hi - shot for the quick reply.

 

ok, I bought a Schwinn Mesa, it says 21" (centre to top) and the guy who sold it to me said that is the biggest size - I am 184cm tall.

 

Hear what you say about upgrades costing - and I have had no problems with Schwinn, just punctures plus breakages. The races I did last month (both 65km) had no problems at all.

 

Could do with changing the angle of the bars/grips as my hands go numb on a long ride.

[hboli4]

Thats definately not the largest size to my knowledge...but sounds right for you.

 

First 'upgrade' if you haven't done that is to go tubeless.Will probably help with the weight a bit as well.

 

I use bar-ends, just offers a different option to put your hand on those loooong rides. Don't listen to what some might tell you, you CAN put bar-ends on riser bars

[Just Keep Pedaling]

Upgrade to tubeless conversion. You don't need tubeless rims and UST tyres - you can do with your won rims. Watch the youtube video's on "ghetto tubeless" and do it yourself. Cost R250.

 

You can get Ergon grips which help elimate hand numbness. Expect to pay R300 for these.

 

The saddle: is the problem rubbing or is it impact from the saddle bruising you? The first can be sortted by a good bib, a smooth saddle with little or no padding and use of chamois cream. The later can be cured by getting fitter which means your full weight is not always on your ass.

[slowpoke]

i wouldn't upgrade a schwinn mesa. they are brilliant starter bikes, but that's their role. rather look at buying something better second hand and then upgrading a good lightweight frame as you can afford better components.

[kanigit]

Cool - thanks for the info.

 

I had bar ends put on for the 2 races, they help to an extent but once the numbness/pins'n needles start they're there until I get off the bike. Might try changing the grips.

 

Never considered tubeless - what's the advantage? is there a big weight saving?

 

ANy input on going for a full suspension bike?

 

Oh - the saddle, I get both chafing and impact soreness. The latter is definitely better when I've been riding regularly.

[Just Keep Pedaling]

"Will rear suspension help with those loooong downhills? YES. YOU WILL GO FASTER AND WITH LESS PAIN.

WIll I get a full suspension bike for my budget? YES. YOU CAN BUY A BRAND X FRAME ON CHAINREACTIONCYCLES> BE AWARE YOU MIGHT NOT BE ABLE TO EASILY PORT SOME OLDER COMPONENTS. ALSO, PORTING COMPONENTS IS LABOUR INTENSIVE SO EXPECT TO PAY THE BIKE SHOP A WHACK TO DO IT.

What bikes should I be looking for? DEPENDS. ANY BRAND IN BUSINESS HAS SOMETHING TO OFFER SOMEONE - JUST NOT NECCESSARILY YOU. TOYOTA CORROLLA BRANDS: GIANT, MERIDA, SCOTT, GT, TREK.

Any makes to avoid, or pitfalls to watch out for? REMEMBER - MOST TIMES THE MAKE IS SIMPLY THE MAKE OF THE FRAME. THE FRAME IS ONLY ONE OF 20+ COMPONENTS. CONCENTRATE ON FRONT FORK, WHEEL SET AND DRIVE CHAIN SETUPS.

WHAT alternative saddle types are there? (preferably ones that won't neuter me)SADDLE IS NORMALLY NOT THE PROBLEM IF YOU ARE HURTING. TRY SADDLE SETUP OR BIB ETC.

Oh, what does "BB" stand for (as in "frame size measured from BB to top of seat post")BOTTOM BRACKET. IT SITS BETWEEN THE TWO CRANKS (PEDAL ARMS) AND HAS A BEARING INSIDE TO KEEP YOU PEDALING SMOOTHLY.

[Just Keep Pedaling]

I agree with slowpoke. Ride it as long as you can and spend a long time researching your next bike, waiting for specials (last year's models etc), comparing value of bike setups etc until you are ready.

Edited December 14, 2010 by Just Keep Pedaling

[Just Keep Pedaling]

Impact soreness: THe muscles in your ass get stonger with time spent in saddle. So this will go away. Chaffing will not go away - buy Assos Chamois Cream - Cycle Lab sells it (and other bike shops too I am sure).

Edited December 14, 2010 by Just Keep Pedaling

[hboli4]

Agree with all of the above!!! Not sure about specific weight saving on tubeless but surely beats the heck out of fixing punctures and running through spare tubes during a race...

[kanigit]

Awesome stuff, thanks guys, please keep it coming.

 

Re. new bike - I missed a Specialised full suspension, ally frame, 600km, for R7k - didn't want to commit as I just don't know ANYTHING about bikes. Also wasn't sure about sizing.

 

I hear the comments about staying with the SChwinn and getting to know MTBs better before buying - makes sense

[slowpoke]

tubeless is heaveir than tubes, and the mesa is a heavy frame - while i had my mesa i stuck with tubes and liners as it was already so heavy i didn't want it worse.

[covie]

9k wont get you a a decent suspension bike probably not even second hand, dual sus frames cost a hell of a lot more than that . Go get yourself either a really decent second hand speced bike or in my opinion a new bike like a silverback ventura. Now everybody is going to scream dont do it. Becuase its silverback, And I can tell you before my anthem i rode them and they are great, The ventura should be in the 11.5 to 12kg category, with superb spec's. And its new and you know the components are dependable.

 

Also if you cant afford a decent softail then get a hardtail first, it will teach you to ride lines, and enhance your skillset, and become a better MTB'er.

[kanigit]

@hboli4 - don't you get punctures with tubeless? What then?

 

Never had punctures when out on a ride YET - just using normal tubes plus 'puncture free'

[covie]

Cool - thanks for the info.

 

I had bar ends put on for the 2 races, they help to an extent but once the numbness/pins'n needles start they're there until I get off the bike. Might try changing the grips.

 

Never considered tubeless - what's the advantage? is there a big weight saving?

 

ANy input on going for a full suspension bike?

 

Oh - the saddle, I get both chafing and impact soreness. The latter is definitely better when I've been riding regularly.

 

Ergon grips rock and did wonders for my numbness, then one day i was too lazy to close the velcro strips on my gloves and it improved even more, then i got gloves with minimal padding and woot its all good now. Some gloves have "pads" that push down directly on your ulner (or whatever they call it ) nerve actually causing numbness instead of helping to prevent it.