RobbyB

Also when selling an older bike, you need to specify when the fork and shock were serviced and bearings on the pivot points. Servicing these three items at today's prices will cost more than what the bike is worth! 26" is , as said, not desirable and likewise with non-tubeless tyres. Older Geometry (2012) also scores lower points, so yeah not quite worth what you're asking for it. Often someone will buy an older bike for sentimental reasons - like that was the same model that he had years ago (for example). Anyway, good luck...

Fortunately you are staying right in the middle of a major cycling route - Durban beachfront to Umhlanga. At airport you can head either South towards Durban (taking the Bird Park loop) and once you get to Blue Lagoon head along the Beachfront promenade all the way to the harbour entrance, then return. Or at the traffic circle, inland of the airport, head North towards Umhlanga. Simply follow any group riding by to acquaint yourself to the route/s. Strava Heatmaps will show you the most used routes. Please identify what bike you will be riding - Road or MTB. Try East Coast Cycle Club (ECCC) / Cycle Lab / KingsPark Cycle Club. Most groups start at the Beachfront swimming pool - doing laps during the week / SunCoast Casino - more secure parking - longer rides / P&P HyperMarket - if the Beachfront is congested. Mountain Biking normally starts at Cornubia, inland of Gateway. You can buy a Temp Board from CycleLab or ECCC if they have a ride organised (don't ride alone). Giba Gorge and Holla are two other MTB options but you'll have to travel there. Good luck and enjoy your time here.

A good idea is to to take screenshots of the advert you are responding to as well as any conversations that you have via whatsapp. Its handy to have the record if the advert is deleted or whatsapp messages are deleted...

A lot of factors come into play. Your weight is one, your bike type and weight is another - Hard tail or Dual Suss. What events are on the horizon? XC or Enduro. The above will impact on your tyre choice and the pressures that you ride them on. Size 2.25 is more ideal for XC and 2.35/2.4 for trail. Tyre weigh is also important to the XC racers. Aspens are lightweight and fast but have smaller knobs (less grip) to others tyres. Ikon also has lesser grip but is fast so is an ideal rear XC tyre. Often the Ardent(front) and Ardent race (rear) are used together for XC. The Rekon has more tread/ grip so can be used more for trail purposes. Forekaster (front) more ideal for wetter soils and mud. Washing out could also indicate poor technique (keeping weight too far forward). To me punctures happen mainly if you ride over a sharp object that penetrates the tyre, so you can't blame a tyre make for a puncture. Punctures are just bad luck. Read up for more general info: https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/blogs/worldwide-cyclery-blog/which-maxxis-tire-is-right-for-you Good luck with what you can get with low stock levels. Schwalbe also make good tyres.

All I can offer is for you to build up your upperbody/arm strength to be able to hold your bike above your head through the rivers. I hope your bike isn't heavy. A bit of excess grease sounds good...

Some great ideas there... I also thought of a whip/shambok tied on to the bike for quicker access. Pepper spray in the back right pocket, but to be used with the wind behind you so you don't get blow-back. Your knife has quite a thin handle. I trust that it wont twist in the hand.

Before you buy a new rear cassette - check to see if you have a short cage rear derailleur (the two pulley wheels will be fairly close together (like about 5,5cm apart). If so you wont be able to fit a bigger cassette without installing a hanger extender (see above). An 11-25 cassette could work on a short cage derailleur but will still be a bit of a slog on a long/steep hill. As said above the most normal cassette these days is an 11-28 (for 11 speed) but cassettes do go into the 30's if the hills you climb are very steep. But I'm not sure what range you get on a 10 speed cassette. Good luck with your choices...

The mounting angle must be high enough to support the front part of your palm when in the riding position. If not then you lose the support there that they were designed for... Do a short test ride and keep moving the grips until you're happy with them. It can take a while to get them precisely right...then they're an absolute pleasure.

Ergon grips are well recommended. Gives great relief by supporting more of the hand (palms). I don't like normal cylindrical style grips on a straight style handlebar (find them uncomfortable). Drop the bar ends unless you personally need them on your bike...

Check the four digits on the outer casing...

On a narrow road, the downhill side is no problem for the bikes to mix in with the cars. On the uphill side the pavements can be made to accommodate bikes by taking the vertical edge lip off and make it mountable by bikes. This allows bikes to use the pavement when cars approach from behind...

What with our rapid bus transport system roll out pretty much ground to a halt, good luck with your idea...

KZN cycling could give you a cycling club list/ EMBA could give one too. Other local bike shops might be able to help. Also try ethekwinicyclesafe@gmail.com

That looks like it could work. Narrowing of the roads slightly to accommodate the cycle lanes and keeping the pedestrians and bikes separated. The only problem would be to get the local councils to agree on the expenditure whilst moping up after the floods. Contact some biking groups and get some signatures and this could roll out in other towns.

A second hand option is a Polar V800. A solid (old) watch with a lot of sporting options - including triathlons. Very accurate GPS and with a heart rate strap with a H10 heart rate monitor is pretty much faultless. The H10 will allow itself to be read by two devices (like on an IDT). The H7 HRM is older but works fine reading to a single device. Make sure the strap doesn't have any cracks on the rubber side. Can pick one up for R3k or less on BHub.