RobbyB

Also when selling an older bike, you need to specify when the fork and shock were serviced and bearings on the pivot points. Servicing these three items at today's prices will cost more than what the bike is worth! 26" is , as said, not desirable and likewise with non-tubeless tyres. Older Geometry (2012) also scores lower points, so yeah not quite worth what you're asking for it. Often someone will buy an older bike for sentimental reasons - like that was the same model that he had years ago (for example). Anyway, good luck...

Fortunately you are staying right in the middle of a major cycling route - Durban beachfront to Umhlanga. At airport you can head either South towards Durban (taking the Bird Park loop) and once you get to Blue Lagoon head along the Beachfront promenade all the way to the harbour entrance, then return. Or at the traffic circle, inland of the airport, head North towards Umhlanga. Simply follow any group riding by to acquaint yourself to the route/s. Strava Heatmaps will show you the most used routes. Please identify what bike you will be riding - Road or MTB. Try East Coast Cycle Club (ECCC) / Cycle Lab / KingsPark Cycle Club. Most groups start at the Beachfront swimming pool - doing laps during the week / SunCoast Casino - more secure parking - longer rides / P&P HyperMarket - if the Beachfront is congested. Mountain Biking normally starts at Cornubia, inland of Gateway. You can buy a Temp Board from CycleLab or ECCC if they have a ride organised (don't ride alone). Giba Gorge and Holla are two other MTB options but you'll have to travel there. Good luck and enjoy your time here.

A good idea is to to take screenshots of the advert you are responding to as well as any conversations that you have via whatsapp. Its handy to have the record if the advert is deleted or whatsapp messages are deleted...

A lot of factors come into play. Your weight is one, your bike type and weight is another - Hard tail or Dual Suss. What events are on the horizon? XC or Enduro. The above will impact on your tyre choice and the pressures that you ride them on. Size 2.25 is more ideal for XC and 2.35/2.4 for trail. Tyre weigh is also important to the XC racers. Aspens are lightweight and fast but have smaller knobs (less grip) to others tyres. Ikon also has lesser grip but is fast so is an ideal rear XC tyre. Often the Ardent(front) and Ardent race (rear) are used together for XC. The Rekon has more tread/ grip so can be used more for trail purposes. Forekaster (front) more ideal for wetter soils and mud. Washing out could also indicate poor technique (keeping weight too far forward). To me punctures happen mainly if you ride over a sharp object that penetrates the tyre, so you can't blame a tyre make for a puncture. Punctures are just bad luck. Read up for more general info: https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/blogs/worldwide-cyclery-blog/which-maxxis-tire-is-right-for-you Good luck with what you can get with low stock levels. Schwalbe also make good tyres.

All I can offer is for you to build up your upperbody/arm strength to be able to hold your bike above your head through the rivers. I hope your bike isn't heavy. A bit of excess grease sounds good...

Some great ideas there... I also thought of a whip/shambok tied on to the bike for quicker access. Pepper spray in the back right pocket, but to be used with the wind behind you so you don't get blow-back. Your knife has quite a thin handle. I trust that it wont twist in the hand.

Before you buy a new rear cassette - check to see if you have a short cage rear derailleur (the two pulley wheels will be fairly close together (like about 5,5cm apart). If so you wont be able to fit a bigger cassette without installing a hanger extender (see above). An 11-25 cassette could work on a short cage derailleur but will still be a bit of a slog on a long/steep hill. As said above the most normal cassette these days is an 11-28 (for 11 speed) but cassettes do go into the 30's if the hills you climb are very steep. But I'm not sure what range you get on a 10 speed cassette. Good luck with your choices...

The mounting angle must be high enough to support the front part of your palm when in the riding position. If not then you lose the support there that they were designed for... Do a short test ride and keep moving the grips until you're happy with them. It can take a while to get them precisely right...then they're an absolute pleasure.

Ergon grips are well recommended. Gives great relief by supporting more of the hand (palms). I don't like normal cylindrical style grips on a straight style handlebar (find them uncomfortable). Drop the bar ends unless you personally need them on your bike...

Check the four digits on the outer casing...

On a narrow road, the downhill side is no problem for the bikes to mix in with the cars. On the uphill side the pavements can be made to accommodate bikes by taking the vertical edge lip off and make it mountable by bikes. This allows bikes to use the pavement when cars approach from behind...

What with our rapid bus transport system roll out pretty much ground to a halt, good luck with your idea...

KZN cycling could give you a cycling club list/ EMBA could give one too. Other local bike shops might be able to help. Also try ethekwinicyclesafe@gmail.com

That looks like it could work. Narrowing of the roads slightly to accommodate the cycle lanes and keeping the pedestrians and bikes separated. The only problem would be to get the local councils to agree on the expenditure whilst moping up after the floods. Contact some biking groups and get some signatures and this could roll out in other towns.

A second hand option is a Polar V800. A solid (old) watch with a lot of sporting options - including triathlons. Very accurate GPS and with a heart rate strap with a H10 heart rate monitor is pretty much faultless. The H10 will allow itself to be read by two devices (like on an IDT). The H7 HRM is older but works fine reading to a single device. Make sure the strap doesn't have any cracks on the rubber side. Can pick one up for R3k or less on BHub.

My nutrition starts the night before. I like a large portion of Chicken breast with brown rice/sweet potato and veg. Wake and eat some fruit - Pineapple/apple and berries - then a medium bowl of rolled Oats porridge mixed with two tablespoons of Future Life. Low carb and a relatively high carb together, about 3 hrs (min of 2 hours) before I ride. I can eat quite late but it can give you a bit of a stitch if you start your ride at pace (eg. in a Race). An hour later a BM (only to reduce weight🤣 ). An hour before I ride I start sipping 32Gi/ or Hammer Perpetuem - mixed with rooibos tea (stomach seems to handle the sugar load better when mixed with rooibos (can add green tea if some caffeine is required)). Some studies say that Potatoes act in a very similar way to Energy Drinks, so a few boiled baby potatoes could be a good substitute if your stomach complains about high (carb) sugar drinks. Gels work well for me as well as bananas and dates and oats energy bars. I tried Creatine and found that this works well for me prior and during a race/ Spirulina is also an optional nutritional supplement. My most important aspect is to HYDRATE extremely well after (any) ride along with rehydrate tabs. I keep a full large glass next to the bed overnight and drink (a lot) early the following morning. This seems to work well, to stop fatigue setting in, for me.

Thank goodness that you survived the attack with body intact. I'm sure that a few painful bruises will follow in a few days. So glad to hear that some kind hearted drivers came to your assistance. I'm sure you'll be more aware of your surroundings and people strolling within it, in future. It often takes an incident like this to give us a wake-up call. Ride-on and enjoy the next 6 years incident free...

Has someone created a Map of all the incidents in CT area that are reported by various groups? Would be important to share this map in riding groups to make all aware of where incidents have happened.

Sorry for you loss. I carry an old retractable Stanley Blade in my rear pocket for a quick draw if needed. The blade can be extended just by thumb action and the blade is pretty rusty. I wouldn't want to be on receiving end! Lets all be aware of those rogues who saunter into the road towards our path. A quick stop and pepper spray can be readied or a quick turn around can be effected if time allows. A Kamikaze speed up and crash into the offender head on/ head down if you feel so inclined. Lets all be more aware out there... (Please add this to the Cape Town dangerous areas chat, as well...)

Phone your local Postnet. They will give you the rates that depend on box (volumetric) size and weight. Off their website: Economy Road (0 to a max: 15Kg - actual weight) (ECO) costs R 95.00/ Up to 15kgs/ 2-3 Days/ - Limit in size is roughly 55 x 55 x 19cm's (*LxBxW = must be <60 000) The formula for calculating volumetric mass is as follows: *Length (cm) x Breadth (cm) x Height (cm) divided by: (Road) 4000 / (AIR) 5000 / (OVN) 5000 Two road wheels in a box weigh over 2kg's but under 3 kg's but their volumetric size in a large box pushes them over the Economy Road permissible size. I have calculated their volumetric size as 70cm x 75 cm x 23 cm (divided by 4000) = 28.175kg so cost should be: R150 + 18 = R168. I was quoted R250 the other day but we were just guessing the box size. Good luck with your calculating...

Its about time that someone came up with this great idea.... More power to the cyclists (LBS's might not agree)!

New bike (same colour), duplicate its serial number onto Hyper bike. Could work?

I have a spare front wheel of same series...so got front wheels covered for broken spokes.

Just an old set of DA 7800 series wheels...

I am picking up a red flag too...but maybe lets flush out a baddie with a one star rating if wheels are no good. A Hubber has offered to go suss out the wheels for me over the week-end (for a fee). One problem that I've encountered on BH is...lets say a Hubber goes to see an item on sale and its far below the spec it was advertised at and declines the purchase then the seller simply puts them up for sale in the next month to catch the next unsuspecting Hubber who might not inspect the item so closely (or who accepts them and after couriering them discovers that they are no good). Maybe we need a new chat group: Avoid this inferior item on sale. I don't think that this would be a duplication of "Petition - Bring back the Classified Comments".