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Johan Bornman

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Everything posted by Johan Bornman

  1. If you do the wheel experiment and envisage all this counter-steering stuff, you'll see that leaning and counter steering produces exactly the same effect. The one causes the other. However, we all prefer (maybe some exception), to just lean.
  2. Why not just destabilize it in the direction you want to turn. Then you save even more time. Start another thread on that and I'll tackle it there. This thread is about ratcheting to gain momentum without gaining speed and, how a bike balances and does not balance.
  3. Naah. You can steer without counter steering. I cited the experiment. Do it.
  4. Hands up. Who has tried to balance a broomstick this afternoon yet and made the analogy with a bike?
  5. I'm not sure if the video answers this question but I'll ask nevertheless. 1) What is the mass of the internal gyro and 2) What direction is the internal gyro spinning? I can deduce the answer to question which is in the opposite direction and that's not what's happening in our Sani2C bike. Different issue.
  6. Nothing LOL about this. The old counter steer argument again. Another myth, on google or elsewhere. You don't have to counter steer at all. I'll prove it by giving you a situation where you CANNOT counter-steer: riding no-hands. You still steer just like as if your hands are on the bars. You don't have to turn a little bit left before turning right. Only old ladies in white Toyota Corrolas do that. There is also no such thing as breaking balance. It is not a locked-in scenario, you are constantly steering this way and that way without breaking anything.
  7. OK, I think I get it but it was quite fast and I'm didn't replay enough. What I think is happening there is the gyro effect, but it has nothing to do with balancing.. Do the experiment I suggested with the spinning wheel (but hold both ends of the axle to help you, then mock-do an X-up and whip and you'll see why it moves the bike - 'cause it can. On the road, there is no way that it can move like that. BTW, the video you first posted is about angular momentum. It is a different issue. Just try my experiment and keep a wheel handy when posting. Once you've observed the first effect, I'll show you another trick.
  8. I hope I didn't say or imply that. You are right, the effect is only initially. But don't see why you would have a problem steering in a long bend. You'll do the initial lean with all its effects and then stay like that. To compensate, you lean more or less and it settles all over again. Did I miss something?
  9. I'd like to respond but quickly educate me on a X-up and whip?
  10. Yes, good point. This will be a good experiment to test the pure gyroscopic effect so much vaunted about.
  11. You sound like the guys in the Atheism/religion threads. Never just believe. Question, experiment, investigate, make up your own mind but allow it to be modified by other viewpoints when need be. Go play with a broomstick and see if you get it.
  12. O OH, ok. Well, firstly, the higher the speed, the more energy the bike has and the further it will travel irrespective of whether it is upright or not. What you describe here has a nice Youtube video of a guy that pushes a riderless bike forward and it stays upright for a remarkable distance. There is a small tendancy for the giro to keep it upright if the bike's weight and the wheel's weight doesn't have a large disparity. With a rider, I suspect the effect is nulled.
  13. Please rephrase. I'm not sure what you mean.
  14. Cold Sundays are great for catching up on reading. I used yesterday as an excuse to finally read the official Sani2C magazine. Good thing I didn’t look at it before the event otherwise I would have stressed over that floating ocean bridge and fell in. Ignorance prevented me from fearing it and falling. Nevertheless, an article in the magazine perpetuated an old myth and needs to be addressed before it becomes a meme. It may be too late. More than a thousand people could have read it and taken it as gospel. But let me try and limit the damage. The article was about skills improvement and contained three sub-headings as “Pillars of Wisdom” 1,2 and 3. Pillar 3 is the one in question. Sean Badenhorst wrote: “PILLAR OF WISDOM 3: Momentum is your friend. The gyroscopic forces generated by your bike’s wheels turning increases the faster you are moving. This means the greater, your momentum, the greater your stability. That’s why, when you slow right down, you become wobbly and unstable. By just maintaining a little momentum you will stay upright. This is usually most common on steep climbs. To maintain your momentum on a steep climb, do a few ratchets with your cranks, using your strongest leg. This keeps the wheels moving and gives you enough time to catch your breath and return to your normal full pedaling action.” The gist of my problem with this meme is that bikes don’t balance through gyroscopic forces. Although a bicycle wheel that turns generates a gyroscopic force, it doesn’t have anything to do with balance. I’ll explain its effect later. First, let’s examine how bicycles balance. Bicycles balance in two modes, separated by a critical velocity (speed). Mode One is when you are riding fast enough so that you balance by steering into the fall (it will become apparent soon) and Mode Two is when you’re going so slow that you’re effectively doing a track-stand. Those of you who can track-stand will know that those skills differ completely from balancing when riding. Actually, those of us who can’t track-stand know it even better. Mode 1: Riding above the critical velocity. This is your most common riding mode when you’re pedalling along comfortably and not even thinking of balancing. Since a bicycle is laterally unstable without your brain’s help, you are constantly falling to the left or to the right – you don’t even realise it – and correcting the fall by steering into the lean. This brings your centre of gravity back underneath you and you don’t fall. Picture this by balancing a broomstick vertically on your hand. As the stick falls to the left, you move your hand to the left, which brings the centre of gravity underneath it again. Ditto for right, forwards and backwards. The broomstick has one extra plane into which it can fall – forwards and backwards. On your bike it is simpler, you don’t fall forwards or backwards, just left and right. Unicycles excluded from the previous statement. . Back to the real-life bike at normal speed. You pedal along an continually sway left and right. Demonstrate it to yourself by looking at your wet tyre tracks. Prove that you cannot ride absolutely straight by trying to follow a road line for a length of time. Your luck runs out within ten meters or so. Mode 2: Riding below critical velocity. This is where the article in question attempts to give advice. It acknowledges that it is difficult to balance at low speed but attributes it to low gyroscopic forces. The real reason is that at those low speeds you can’t move fast enough to steer your centre of gravity to underneath the “fall”. Indeed, the terrain may even prevent you from steering, like when you’re riding in a deep rut with no room for sideways movement. How a skilled rider balances in these conditions is to move his/her body laterally over the bike in an attempt to correct the lean – track-stand style. This requires core muscle strength similar to what’s required when you’re standing on a balance ball. The author suggests that ratcheting will somehow wind up the gyro and get you to balance again. This is false. Either you increase the speed so that you can steer by “falling” or you balance Mode 2 style. He erroneously suggests that momentum creates stability through gyroscopic action. I don’t see how ratcheting would help in either of these two modes other than introduce some body movement which may help you to balance (Mode 2 style). Ratcheting produces no momentum and refutes his own argument. So where does the gyroscopic force play its role in steering? It automatically turns the front wheel into the direction you’re leaning as you go around a corner. Cyclists and motorcyclist instinctively know that to turn right, you lean right and left, you lean left. We don’t turn the handlebars, they somehow turn themselves, we just lean. To understand this you have to remove your bike’s front wheel and experience the gyro forces first. Hold the wheel in your dominant hand by the skewer. It helps to straighten the skewer lever and hold that in your hand (swivel side to go fore-aft so that it gives you a sturdy handle in your hand. Put your forefinger on the jamb nut and spin the wheel with your other hand. The wheel should now spin in your hand and you’re holding only onto one side. Now “lean” the wheel like you’re turning and you’ll see the wheel forcefully steering into the lean. On the back wheel those forces are lost in the frame but in the front, it cause the bike to steer. You may also want to convince yourself that at slow speeds the wheel doesn’t produce the same forces and that ratcheting the crank will do nothing to produce a gyro and do nothing to create momentum, only some perhaps-useful body movement like the sideways shaking a tight-rope walker with produce to maintain balance. Further proof (just in case you’re still confused) that a gyro has nothing to do with not falling over is that you can reduce the size of the wheel to a point where it has no gyro effect even at great speed , like on a little skateboard-wheel scooter. It still steers by moving underneath the fall. Then go even smaller, an ice skate. It also steers by moving your legs under the fall – there is zero gyro in that scenario but the method of steering is always the same.
  15. Tell you what, go Bearing Man on Monday for those bearings and come report here how many they had in stock and at what price. Try SKF too. Don't let Male Answer Syndrome (MAS) make you respond to every question. If you don't know the answer, don't answer. You loose marks here for wrong answers.
  16. Not that I know of, but for good reason. Those grease nipples do nothing for the lower pivot. It fails just as fast as any other one. Further, I've now opened two of those lower pivots to find bearings that are sealed on the inside. In that assembly they should have no seals on the inside so that the grease you pump in goes through the bearing and out the other seal. These just had the grease go....nowhere. Those bolts, although they can adjust for pre-load, are fragile and expensive. No thanks.
  17. Ceramic bearings make no difference to your performance or a component's longevity at all.
  18. Don't even try. You will skin your knuckles or even break a finger. Further, to get it off you have to cut it off and that's not something you want to do when doing field repair work. Don't use steel tyre levers either, they will punch right through the rim. I have samples here to prove it. That combo just doesn't work. Move on.
  19. Bearing quality is difficult to assess if you're a layman in the game. Enduro bearings are good quality bearings but the single biggest reason to buy them is because the company understands bicycles and thus stocks just about all the bearings required on bicycles. Technically SKF also does, but finding them at industrial bearing outlets is impossible. They're probably not even imported in the rarer sizes. Rush Sports does an excellent job of stocking what our industry needs. Enduro's standard bearings have just enough grease to not add too much rolling resistance to wheels - not that it really matters in the bigger scheme of things (rolling resistance is a tiny fraction of air drag, for instance) but, should your freehub bearings have too much grease, the freehub will still pull forward when you freewheel, causing the chain to bunch up and other bad things to happen. Enduro has also optimized bearings for suspension use - check out the MAX series. Same size as an equivalently-coded wheel (LLB) bearing, but with more balls and more grease. High resistance, but better for suspension use. Cartridge bearings, no matter what their quality, don't last long on bicycles. The seals are not protected as they should be by the hub manufacturers who should be adding one extra seal in the form of a labyrinth seal to the outside of each bearing. Further, bicycle wheels are not kind to deep groove ball bearings. A bearing, lets call it size X, in a bicycle wheel and one in a tool such as a bench grinder, will fail years and years and years before the one in the bench grinder fails. This is simply because it is easy to protect the grinder's bearing from water and, it experiences no lateral forces. However, cartridge bearings are now the de-facto standard on bicycles because it is cheap to design components around them and if they fail, the component is still safe. We hate them but have to live by them. Removing and replacing them in wheels, freewheels and suspension components is one of the most important skills a DIY bike-fixer should learn.
  20. You can extrapolate the mercury in ocean fish by looking at how old the animal is when eaten. The older, the more mercury. Tuna live a couple of years before the Japs zap them, so they accumulate more mercury than a sardine. Stay away from those old turtles.
  21. Inspect your tubes and you'll see little wear lines where the edge of the tyre liner abraded the tube until it punctures. Chuck the liners and tubes and embrace the tubeless world.
  22. This is a carbide lamp (not paraffin). Carbide (calcium carbide) is a powder. Add water and it gives of acetelyne, which ignites readily and makes an awesome bright light. Side effects include explosions, sparks and the like, otherwise it is a good light. Never needs charging, but burning acetylene gives off the best soot in the world - very, very fine carbon dust that quickly blackens the lens. Cabide is also a lekker mole extinguisher. Chuck some carbide down a mole hole, add water and a spark and voila! A lawn that looks like its arteries were ripped right out. The moles stay away for at least 24 hours after that.
  23. Ha ha, dis nogal snaaks dat hulle jou so noem. Het jy groot ore of is jy porselein-wit van gelaat? Onthou, 'n koos in Afrikaans is in soort pot wat jou ouma onder die bed gehou het. Ek, ek verkies Johannekie oor...nou ja.
  24. Use any old grease you can buy at Midas. Bikes don't require special grease anywhere. The exception is Chris King hubs on the ring drive. No need for Marine grease since we don't have to protect our Jhb bikes against salt spray or salt water intrusion. And, there is no such thing as waterproof grease.
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